Building a kitchen for the first time raises many questions (especially if you're curious and want it to be done well). I will try to compile some questions regarding the kitchen wall itself.

Plywood
I have read that you should have 5-ply. At Beijer, there is this one, but at the same time, it says that this one "is used as reinforcement behind gypsum boards." Which plywood should I use? (Using plywood to securely attach the upper cabinets)

Gypsum
I want regular 13mm gypsum to put tiles on. Which one is suitable for that?

Screws
I need screws for:
1. Plywood
It seems chipboard screws are the way to go. Like this one?

2. Gypsum
I’ve read and concluded that this one should fit?

3. Kitchen cabinets (IKEA)
I believe you need a screw with a smooth bearing surface, threaded all the way, and about 50mm. Is that correct? Any concrete tips? I only find assembly screws but sometimes read that they might be too weak.

I could naturally ask all this at Beijer, but from experience, I know that you usually know more.
 
Ola78
Behind the kitchen cabinet, I had placed noggins at the correct height, dimension 45*120 or 145, sturdy enough to screw into. You can probably screw the plywood with that screw if you want it. For the gypsum, you should use longer screws, use 41mm screws, they are meant for double boards. Regular gypsum is sufficient for tiling on. I actually can't answer about the mounting on the cabinet.
 
Thank you for your response!
What is the point of having a longer screw for drywall than 30mm (drywall 13mm + plywood 12 mm = 25 mm total)?

What is "standard" drywall? GN?
 
I assume it's just a wall (outer wall?)

Tear off the old material and run electricity where you want it.
Cover with plywood/OSB, upright so that the seams land on the standing studs. Leave a gap of about 3mm between. I would also glue.
Then screw with the screw you suggested, it also works with drywall screws.
Screw about 20cc on the studs.
The setup doesn't need to be a masterpiece, it's just for you to have something to attach stuff to.
Tongue and groove boards also work if you find sheets cumbersome.

For the drywall, place a full sheet against the corner, the seam doesn't need to hit a stud underneath. But the seam should absolutely not be closer to the OSB/plywood seam than 30cm.
Some cut the rebate on the board against the corner, I don't. It depends on how skilled you are at plastering.
The next board is placed flush against the previous one.
You screw with the drywall screw you linked to, it doesn't need to be longer, otherwise you're just screwing into air behind. Screw the drywall 20cm cc at the edges and 30cc in the middle.
GN is 1200mm wide, GNE 900mm.

There are threads on how to mount IKEA cabinets on these walls and the conclusion is that noggings are not needed (I agree).

Are there doors and windows?

I would probably plaster all seams and screw heads too, it goes pretty fast.

Now you have a very nice surface, and you attach tiles with setting adhesive if they are even and nice (lay them out on a sheet to see if the joints are good, otherwise fix).
 
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Thank you Bengtsson - what an answer!

It is an interior wall (without doors) that is already stripped down to the studs. However, the studs are not at standard measurements so I might add to fit the plywood sheets. Did you have any tips on which plywood is best?
http://beijerbygg.se/templates/BB_ProduktListing.aspx?id=7588
 
If you have odd standard measurements, råspont might be more convenient.
 
I realized that the easiest way is probably to mount the plywood horizontally. The distance isn't long, so I can manage with the one that is 2400mm high (or wide in my case). Then I can also put up the drywall horizontally without having the seam in the same place.

Does anyone know what screws to use for wall cabinets?
 
If the studs are upright, then set them upright. I assume you will be covering the entire wall from floor to ceiling. Do not have the panels flush on the floor; leave a gap of a few mm by using a suitable spacer.

Regarding the mounting of cabinets, etc., there is a discussion here,
http://www.byggahus.se/forum/koek/1...och-6mm-gips-bakom-kakel-och-skap-i-koek.html

Regarding tile adhesive, I want to clarify that this is not an established practice, but a little shortcut that you need to assess yourself if it's a detour... search and you will find answers.
 
Ola78
I agree with Bengtsson in most of what he writes, but I still think you should use the long screw when you screw the drywall into the studs, and 30 screws are not enough as only 5 mm holds. I myself have used råspont behind all the drywall, it holds very well later when you need to screw something up.
 
Since I have plywood behind the drywall, I didn't think it was necessary to also screw the drywall into the studs?

Regarding screws for mounting upper cabinets, I found this screw from SPAX that seems great:
http://www.wgprodukter.se/links/01-15.1-Skruv_TKX.pdf
 
If you screw the plywood properly into the joists, I see no reason to screw the drywall into the joists, it just becomes "harder" to hit the right spot if you know what I mean?
Remember to offset the seams on the drywall relative to the plywood..

//Best regards
 
I was actually planning to mount plywood vertically and drywall horizontally. The advantage is that I completely avoid having to fill joints since all the drywall seams are hidden behind the bench and upper cabinets. There will also be no problems shifting the seams.
 
The Tor said:
I actually thought of mounting the plywood standing and the drywall lying down. The advantage is that I completely avoid having to plaster since all drywall seams end up behind the countertop and cabinets. There will also be no problems offsetting the seams.
I think that sounds like a good idea, just go for it...

I used some similar screws to the ones you linked to when I installed an Ikea kitchen for an acquaintance, although those screws were from Essve but the model was the same. Worked great and held really well in the plywood...

//MVH
 
I hope to be able to show you a finished kitchen eventually. It's in the summer cottage that we're fixing it, so it's just some weekend work now and then.

Thanks for all the help!
 
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