Building Materials and Construction Technology
MaZtoR: Call a chimney sweep is my advice. Then, if you need to repaint something, there is special paint for smoke damage. (it usually also takes nicotine stains and moisture damage)
anaitis: A real scraper usually works. One can often loosen the adhesive with some kind of solvent. I've personally been forced to resort to a chisel at times. The adhesive had seeped deep into the plaster! So I had to replaster parts of the surface.
MathiasS: [citat] Hmm.....here it was the opposite. Most common types of foam sealant are diffusion-tight when the seam is a few centimeters wide. The same foam often cannot withstand water exposure for a long time without getting damaged.... However, there are foams that can withstand long-term water exposure, UV etc.
nimhed: Pressure-treated timber often has a warranty against rot damage, even when it is buried. I have stored it outdoors under a tarp, with straps, but without an air gap in between, to minimize the risk of warping. However, I have no personal experience with storing pressure-treated timber.
ByggEva: We are considering opening a dog and cat boarding facility. I have been looking around online to find a manufacturer that makes inexpensive, simple, insulated buildings (preferably modules). Can anyone recommend a good manufacturer? :)
reidar: Thank you for the responses "pinebar" and "doldskada". I will test both suggestions. Dallas
Dr.SiC: I have read a number of threads about how to reduce footstep noise between floors and "zankan" has written a lot about Stepisol and epdm rubber strips. Stepisol seems impossible to get hold of (although I've only checked with Beijer) so what's left are the epdm strips, but where do you buy those?
anaitis: If you want to avoid the crosses after the track screw, it is easy to fill over the screws before you cast.
sixten88: The cc distance entirely depends on the type of drywall and the number of layers. Suppliers have ready solutions for the cc distance. But there’s no problem mounting the drywall horizontally; just use joint plates at the seams.
Tullmannen: Is it necessary to install a moisture barrier between a new concrete slab and interior door thresholds?
Skånelängan: Finishing this with "slopping" on the frame, sealant, backing rod, and finally caulking around the frame. Then this will be covered. Flashing at the bottom of the threshold.
marcuspresident: The first post on the forum is about a concrete staircase I have in my little cottage. Concrete hat and concrete staircase, two unpleasantly hard things. To the point, as you can see in the pictures, the entire veranda roof will be removed and replaced, and the concrete staircase will be extended 1.4m to the right. My questions, therefore, are how I should proceed. It should be said that I am a
bigsnucke: Would never pay for a door installation that doesn't work...
janwide: Bumping this thread a little. No one knows?
byggare henke: why? they've probably had the nails there so that the bolt doesn't fall out of the wall if you change the sink maybe. there must have been a nut or something on the other side
jtl: Hello, I am in the process of changing the facade and adding insulation and discovered that the gypsum board behind our masonry stove is damaged (cracked) and the paper has not fared well from the heat... The stove is built with thick walls and has never received any remarks during inspections. The question is what I can do about the damaged gypsum board? The options I am considering are: 1) A
vadintor: Hi, I have looked and searched around the forum but haven't found a solution to my concerns. We live in a 1½ storey house and want a separating door on the upper floor at the stairs down to the entrance level. How close to the stairs can the door be installed, i.e., how much floor space must there be between the door and the first step? Hope someone understands what I mean. Torbjörn
magnu: The screw can withstand quite a lot :-) The question is how much the board can withstand. If it's a simple plasterboard, it's not that much, but 8 kg should be on the right side http://www.byggahus.se/forum/koek/10401-gipsvaeggar.html
corre: Optimize http://www.optimera.se/wps/wcm/connect/optimera/optimera/kontakt/optimera-linkoping //erik
Stefan N: Run OSB+Gips and no diff.
Ahlbom: .. if everything is to be painted anyway.. Buy some planed boards and make some grooves with the hand router to get the dimensions you want!
Ahlbom: After initially hiring for a leaking flue, and having to redo the sealing myself 6 times, I've learned the hard way.... it doesn't have to cost much and I wouldn't choose to insert a pipe as you lose the heat from the flue gases. Dries out the attic, etc. Start by pressure testing the chimney yourself, identify the leaking spots, and clean the flue thoroughly. Make a hole near where it leaked,
Blåsås: Just took over an old house from 1935. One of the projects involves building a new staircase. Is there anyone who knows if there is any guide or design software where you can design an L staircase yourself? The staircase will be built on site.
jtengen: Hi We have a 1920s house that was somewhat "over-renovated" in the 60s. We now want to recreate details from the original and have come across a problem. The balcony currently has a metal railing that I want to replace with a plastered wall with all its details. My question is how did they solve the drainage of water? I was thinking of having two drainage holes at each corner (with a slope
jeffkan: this surface is roughly uneven, and definitely not any bridge concrete :) but the bunker was cast in 1997, and has been exposed to all forms of weather since then. Could this have affected the concrete in any way that I need to take into consideration?
mrVoodoo: I had tried to use some form of trackpad since then to ensure that the hole doesn't "slip". Maybe an MDF (or whatever you have lying around) clamped with a quick support might work? Depends a bit on how it looks with walls. Don't want something that damages the wall either, so I can't think of many more fastening options for a guide hole.
BigGitt: Where can one find these glass blocks? Preferably in southern Skåne.