Building Materials and Construction Technology
David_Berglund: It is not about "a few millimeters," which in my world is quite a lot. The plates are 0.5mm thick, and with some sinking into the wood when tightening the boards, you can probably expect a 0.3-0.4mm gap between the stud and the board. But even though it might seem small, you are right about the problem with wood glue. I don't think a correct joint can be achieved here with regular wood glue, as
prototypen: Is it enough with 4 pcs 145x22 nailed/screwed into a square tube? If it has to be 170 mm, you need to buy 170 and cut off 22 mm. Protte
prototypen: No gaps, you lose insulation capability if there's a chance of drafts. Protte
Ingenjör Jesper: A 34x95 it was... Screwed with 6x80 screws cc15 into the plank wall behind. Then there will be a beam shoe tomorrow with anchor screws in both the new and old beams, maybe it will reach down so that there will be two in the sill too... And then I think there will be a couple of long screws through the shoe's bolt holes as well so it attaches directly to the plank wall too... No one wants to
Perham: The question is whether the 45x70 framed wall can support the 95x95 post in any way.?
justusandersson: Whether the floor structure is made of wood or concrete, some type of reinforcement around the stairwell opening is needed. The idea of reinforcement resting on the stair spindle is creative but not practical. It can probably be solved in your case, but to know how, one must get much closer to the details. In a split-level house from 1956, I would have sworn that the floor structure was concrete,
BengtH: Hi, I have a fireplace made of cement blocks/elements. It works great and stores heat but unfortunately looks like a pizzeria wall! [bild] [bild] [bild] [bild] The "beautiful" surface is probably some cement-based light mortar, applied by the previous owner. I scraped off a piece and let it sit in water but nothing happened, so I assume it's not gypsum-based. We want to get rid of the pizzeria
Rickard.: There must be a simpler solution that can be dismantled without the anchor mass; it's incredibly overkill for the job. A suitable plastic plug or perhaps an expansion anchor if it's a big hole seems more reasonable.
Spopas: Did anything come of the casting? Planning something similar myself, so I'm curious how it turned out :)
joasag: [citat] I understand that, there is a risk that the new beam ends up right at the joint between the rafters. Still leaning towards not reusing the beam, requires me to solve temporary supports in that case, easier to let everything stay until the walls are finished.
mhoglund: [citat] Clay mortar is what is used by those who set tile stoves. This is partly because if you need to reset the tile stove for some reason, you can just moisten the mortar and it will release on its own. Easy to work with and easy to clean up after yourself. A nice natural product, in short.
Binbin: Hey, have you found a good solution? I have a similar staircase and want to build something nice or smart storage like you. [citat]
PeterFalun: maybe works with fjällpanel https://www.byggmax.se/fj%C3%A4llpanel-21x120-p08422120 might be worth a try
b8q: Pure laziness and stinginess for not throwing in some (sound) insulation, I would think.
elenik: Phew, we're not doing this again, but at least the joint is in place now! The angle between the sloped roof and the chimney made this part somewhat of a challenge, and we're not quite sure how the joints look up against the sloped roof since it was hard to see what the heck we were doing. It took a bit more than 1 bag of Weber hydraulic lime mortar. Relatively easy to work with, and I have to
Oldboy: In principle, you can insulate on the inside as well, but I think the disadvantages outweigh the benefits there. Ideally, you want a more temperature-stable inside, which means heavy massive materials, i.e., the plank frame is good.
David_Berglund: Today, we have a sunroom with scissor trusses and a standing seam metal roof on top. We really like the space it provides inside with a little extra ceiling height, but in conjunction with a major renovation of the house, we have decided to demolish this sunroom, which stands on pillars, expand the existing basement underneath, and rebuild it more substantially and winterized. We also wish to
Nicro: If by "vanlig plugg" you mean nylonplugg :) Colored plastic plugs are not great.
putte22: [citat] (y) Just cut off the fjäder if you are not going to use it.
Workingclasshero: [citat] It works fine with planed, it's just a spacer, not load-bearing. A few extra screws, you know, you'll be standing on it, well, when you're on the ladder, that is :-)
MathiasS: ...:) yes, this part of the house is not my favorite place. The original construction is mediocre, and then I had to turn the whole setup into Swiss cheese when the electrical panel was moved and 100% of the electricity and water had to be hidden. Sometimes I dream of a new house where I can plan all the infrastructure from the start.... But, okay, that's how it will be, double 15mm plywood on
bf402: [citat] Combining steel and wooden frames that way sounds really smart! I'll probably go ahead and do that. Thanks!
Heij83: I get to share since my project that just got finished. I've decided to place my bureau about 5mm outside the wall and sealed around it with soft sealant. (The sealant is not in place in the picture)
Nordjohan: Hello, I have read this thread with interest. Since I have planned a construction of a machinery hall with the same type of structure, I am naturally curious about how you proceeded with your construction? Best regards, Johan
Demmpa: No, no ventilation out to the kattvind, you don't want warm, moist indoor air in the kattvind. If you are going to ventilate, it should go outside where the ventilated air should end up.
cpalm: Home theme had a good balance between price and selection when I recently shopped for plumbing items. But a lot depends on what you need. Prices vary on different items, but most importantly, shipping becomes expensive if you need to order from multiple places. It's best to get long goods from someone who offers free shipping and delivery of bulky items.
Bimo: I don't know what material the existing pillar is made of since it is built into the wall. My idea is to place the new pillar next to (outside) the old one and reinforce the old vot when the new one is cast. I'm considering choosing an IPE 240 or possibly an HEA 180. What do you think about that?
peterj66: Exciting and inspiring project. The key is probably, as mentioned in the campervan blog, to ensure that any condensation that forms has somewhere to go.
tergo: [citat] not if there are also horizontal studs, probably a finished wall section that is 1200 mm wide. I have a Nordic wooden house from 1980 and there is raw wood paneling on all exterior and interior walls in the house 17mm raw wood paneling on the interior walls and 22mm on the exterior walls and 9 mm plasterboard on the walls