Building Materials and Construction Technology
Lindgrenski: [citat] It’s clear. :) The only reason I even discovered the damage is because I tore down a thin interior wall ahead of decorating the space.
HEM2121: [citat] If you're tearing everything out, take the opportunity to level the floors, I don't know how it is with you but townhouse constructions from 68 usually have floors that slope both ways. It would be built quickly and cheaply, wages that were based on material consumption. You could, for example, find many rolls of insulation in the crawl space instead of in the floors.
Andreas_1977: [citat] Thanks for the response. Great to have information like that here.
Torparen 32: So true, so true, I took a calculated risk with paint stores to avoid plastering the ceiling. The tip with fiber cloth and wet room glue did not work out. The crack in the picture is quite large, so I tore down the ceiling and put up gypsum, and when I see the construction, I'm glad I switched to gypsum. Is there anyone who has succeeded with a strip on this type of ceiling? [bild] [bild] [bild]
Hammare&Spik: Thanks for your advice. They helped a lot! The windows are flush with the facade today, and therefore we want the new ones to be as well. We don't want to change the house's original design too much.
sole_oggi: Hello! I am planning to install a floor in our new wine cellar, which is being built in a rustic style. I have seen a couple of pictures of patterned floors that are handcrafted and they look very grand. What is required and how does it work? The room is located in the basement, so I'm building on a concrete slab but I have the option to build on wooden joists that I set up or lay floorboards on
Håbbe01: The norm is at least 10cm for a chimney and at least 300mm for an uninsulated pipe, so yes it works.
Bjor: [citat] Vapor brakes were used on a lot of houses in the past, in the form of clay plastering. So building thick walls in the old way works well. It's possible to insulate a bit without it being visible. A blockhouse with insulation between two layers is an alternative to log. A log house today will not look like a log house from the 1700s, as the walls will be thicker. But the building method
Hubbe96: Okay, great, then I don't have to dwell on it anymore, thanks for your answer! I'm somewhat inexperienced in casting specifically.. It's going to be an energy-efficient mechanic garage in Norrland, so it's important to wrap the darn thing in double socks ;)
Elvvsbygg: My friend had the same type of ceiling in his 1940s house in the basement. It creates an awful lot of dust to tear it all down, but at his place, there was a type of sparse paneling underneath that was almost without gaps, so there might be something to screw into directly through the plaster.
Niklas Lindén: Sparse with 34 mm, also easier to embed boxes.
LillaRackaren: Hello to those who got involved with tips regarding my thread cutting! I got tired of searching for the right thing on Google, Sifverts skruv didn't have what I needed, and I don't have the tools to drill holes and thread a suitable round rod (though I love the DIY spirit in the suggestion!). I eventually went with an M3 nut I found at Clas Ohlson, which with the right angle just fit into the
jonaserik: Concrete and ironing, forget it. Castings directly on the ground are done daily. The risk factor is placing them directly on the ground now, some frost, it thaws underneath in the spring and they topple over and someone gets caught underneath. To be safe, they should lie down or stand on a solid base. They can also be placed back to back.
Fotografen: [citat] No, the treetex is too weak. Find a stud.
Lutte: Had walked with the plastic up to the window opening and then taped the plastic under the window all around and then soft sealed around the window so that the soft seal adheres to the window and tape.
Hammaren666: [citat] I know several who are super satisfied with Lövångers. When it comes to size, I would probably go with something like 7.2 x 10.8 so you can fit a workbench and a storage area at the back. In reality, it's probably the plot that determines the design.. Good luck!
Thyselius: [citat] I used Finbetong and cast in two stages, and reinforced with rebar. Need to figure out a solution regarding ventilation as it's pretty poor. It got worse when the boiler was removed. Sorry to hear that, hope things are better now.
daddydj: [citat] Yes, that was the thought in that case. Raise it up and have a pillar down to the floor from the top of the truss. However, I have now reconsidered, so I might go with a slightly different layout to avoid modifying the truss.
LillaNorrviken: [citat] Thanks for the input! I'll investigate the matter further with this information in mind!
Tauerhouse: Okay, thanks! I read in an earlier thread that it could lie as a gray layer in vinyl floors, so I thought it might be similar to this, but then it's probably some other material.
Bombus pratorum: Pressure-treated wood should be fine, as long as it's modern boards without arsenic. Birds in nesting boxes have almost no sense of smell, so they don't mind. As for planed/unplaned wood, it doesn't matter at all for small birds. They just hop up to the hole. Perhaps pressure treatment is unnecessary. A nesting box lasts quite a long time without any treatment. I do paint mine with three or four
Attefallshuset: [citat] I have plywood in the (gable) roof as well and laid it edge to edge so I didn't use any crown molding. I also have plywood in the reveals, so no lining either. Regards, Johan
garvin: Sucks less where you have glued. Sand the entire surface lightly. Before you paint the 2nd time.. May need to paint 3 times. To ensure the surface is saturated.
Snickerick: Hello Does anyone know if you can find information and products for renovating with microcement for DIY?