Building Materials and Construction Technology
olofh: Maybe should have been in the electrical forum. Because now I realized. The easiest way must be to cut out the existing ones and bend the pipes so they reach the box on the new wall stud. Kind of building into the wall. Probably need to shim a bit at the doorpost but should be doable. The wall will be about 20cm thick. It's into the kid's room so it will work as extra soundproofing.
justusandersson: Facing bricks are not intended to be load-bearing. You cannot use the brick to support a ridge beam; instead, it must be anchored in the framework behind the brick. However, you can attach plant supports and similar structures to the brick.
joelfro: I'm going to spruce up my mountain cabin a bit; I will cover some walls with wilderness paneling. However, to save some money, time, and the hassle of transporting materials up to the cabin, it occurred to me that in some places I've seen, I get the feeling that they've covered the wall with plywood and then added a few "wilderness panel planks" to create the right vibe. Does anyone have some
Roffe_riff: [citat] Aren't plasterboard anchors even easier?
Jonawullt: Hello! I just bought two Ivar cabinets and want to mount them on a drywall. Does that even work? No support legs… grateful for any answers!
Elnovis: [citat] Thank you very much. Looks simple.
Pumabjörnen: [citat] If I were you, I would replace the routed 22mm chipboard with a v313-p5 moisture-resistant chipboard also 22mm, fasten the underfloor heating pipe (good idea to clip the comfort loop [electric heating] into the pipe) onto that, followed by mesh for the leveling compound and then float the floor, a minimum of 15mm over the pipe is the necessary thickness as far as I know. Realize that this
Kristofferm: [citat] I ended up at 29/31 degrees with about half a degree plus/minus in difference. There are no exact angles in a house from 1951. :rofl: The angles were also the same all the way through, it was an optical illusion that it would be something else. It took a bit of swearing and a couple of miscuts before I got everything to fit. Using metal overhang, as Pumabjörnen recommended, would
rolfino: [citat] How did it go with the handrail on the plaster wall? I have the same question as you, namely how to get it to stay in single plasterboard? I was in a bit of a hurry when I dismantled and threw away the original handrail and didn't mark the attachments. So now I'm left with newly wallpapered staircase walls without a handrail and without marks of previous attachments. Probably blocking
BörjeHansson: [citat] Turn the blocks so the holes are for insulation.
ZipLock: It's not entirely uncommon to have Nivell without ventilation, is it? We've looked at two houses where they've installed Nivell just in case, but not ventilation.
Daniel Barnaniel: [citat] That was my concern. Go with 6 unless someone else has a different opinion/knowledge? Big thanks!
thatkrille: [citat] Yes, that's an option. But I prefer not to have anything sticking out from the side of the chimney that's visible when looking straight on.
Uffe A: Great Nice that it was resolved in a good way So it was as elmont wrote
Mikael Wallin: [citat] Thanks for the detailed answers! I feel significantly better equipped to move forward now. A project thread might come later this spring when I actually do the work, a bit too cold to be outside and building now. Outside, I expect some of the plaster to come off when I remove the steel frame for the door, so I'll take it from there and decide how much to plaster. There have also been
1977bjorn: If you want to be extremely safe, drill with 10mm and use an 8mm screw, with a suitable plug for it.
CarlHammare: Hello! I'm working on insulating the garage, fire-rated EI30 in the exterior walls and ceiling. I've installed the first layer of drywall in the garage ceiling along with the battens and cross-battened with PB100 at the short joints. I'm now planning to install the second layer of drywall across the battens/boards. What I'm wondering is whether I need to support with PB100 along the entire long
NyfikenIngenjör: [citat] I absolutely understand what you mean and believe that a limitation is in order. By specifying Climate Zone and Atemp, it makes it easier. If energy data can be obtained from a number of construction solutions in this manner, then I don't think there is any problem in subsequently conducting an LCC analysis of this.
Martin Sigge: Haha, yes funny exercises. Very large difference in the end grain's areas compared to the total area, as I wrote in the reference piece's diagram, which must be the reason it took so long to dry. I ended the drying this morning after 2811 minutes. I think any further weight loss is negligible in this context. I estimate the moisture content to be 6.8%. Test piece 1 is a 5 cm slice of the beam
Stefan N: Hack away and clean up, absolutely the best for the wall.
Sandra Caffarena: Hello, I am not the best at explaining, and therefore I believe the pictures express what I need help with. What should I do to get a nice edge? Previously, there has been wallpaper that sort of bubbles. What material should I use?
människa: Wow! Too bad I've already drilled new holes But thanks :)
nova383: Hello. I've looked at various tables but still can't figure it out... A house with an open ceiling up to the ridge except over the bathroom and bedroom, there will be a loft above that. It will become a bedroom or something similar up there later. I drew a picture that explains the question, I think. I was thinking of a 45x220 beam across about 6m, preferably with just 45x70 posts underneath, but
1977bjorn: I have not worked with siporex, so unfortunately I cannot answer that. A quick google search, however, says: Lightweight concrete beam is a reinforced lightweight concrete element used as a load-bearing component for door and window openings in lightweight concrete masonry. Which seems to be the same thing, so it should probably work... Maybe it's possible to knock out a ledge on each side to fit
jonaserik: Plaster and stairwells or other variations are not good to attach to; it should be rigid where the mounts are placed.