Building Materials and Construction Technology
Viktor Dagander: We are looking to achieve a fully plastered chimney. The fireproof bricks that are next to the inset stove are the ones I'm curious about, as well as the shelf that the stove itself stands on, which we would like to have plastered. What should be used so that it withstands heat and adheres as it should? Best regards
joasag: I have bought 2 pieces of 180x42 glulam beams that will sit next to each other to form a 180x84 glulam beam. Do you recommend joining these beams with glue and screws or should they remain separate from each other? Both beams will rest on the same 90x90 glulam posts. I will also attach the glulam beams to the roof trusses with joist hangers to prevent lateral movements. These will be attached
Höghus: Now the tiling is approaching. The left part is chipboard, the right part is plastered chimney breast, and I will attach a 6mm renovation gypsum to the chipboard. The entire wall behind the stove and above the countertop will be tiled. Is it a good idea to extend the board a decimeter over the plaster to cover the joint between wood and stone? /Höghus [bild]
sliderr: i build a house like this, you cover the CLT with rain/wind protection fabric and an outerlayer with or without isolation.
YoMat: [citat] Thanks for the tip! I tried drilling a bit further into the wall and found the brick. So now both shelves are up! But I might have reason to try your option another time.
ÉlPon: No, I haven't built anything yet; I've just applied for a building permit for a larger extension, which would make the upper floor "superfluous." But if I get denied, roof dormers might become relevant again. A building permit is needed if you're modifying a roof truss, but otherwise, an "attefall" is sufficient. My problem was that I couldn't apply for a building permit until now. Member
Heij83: That should be load-bearing studs that can probably be rerouted, but not without an engineer who has calculated it.
Jazze84: [citat] Yes, that sounds like an option too, I'm going to Hornbach tomorrow to see what chisels they have in stock.
M-gnus: [citat] Hi, how did the solution where the gable roof met the garage roof turn out? I'm having the same thoughts here at home…
Rickard.: Ca-lim is what is often called super glue. It comes in slightly different consistencies and the thicker ones are really useful. I go through quite a bit of Biltema's for toy repairs and hobby projects and find it good for most things except the absolutely finest work.
Wowah: [citat] Thanks for the answers :) should I just sand it down and knock off the loose plaster and repair the wall where needed, basically? Or should I do something since it's installed with an air gap behind :)? I was wondering if it might get damp and settle between without being visible, if you know what I mean.
Allmänobildad: https://www.gyproc.se/produkter/innerv%C3%A4ggsprofiler/skenor/gyproc-skp-4530 https://www.norgips.se/produkter/skenor-med-4-mm-polyeten/ There is also PE fabric on a roll to glue yourself onto the tracks.
Jonatan79: Search for innerpanel, some sawmill surely has the ability to produce different widths if they are not in stock.
KJD: Completed the remaining strips and achieved better adhesion with double priming of gypsum. The seller replaced the adhesive and picked one from another batch just to be safe. However, it feels like there is a sensitive and short "open time" on the adhesive, and this should be highlighted more clearly, some might think. Or it's not a product that can just be picked up and used; rather, one simply
justusandersson: The vangstycke attached to the post functions as a beam. It is mostly vertical forces acting on the post. I would cut it a bit higher so it functions as something you can hold onto when walking up the stairs. Buy some nice decorative detail and place it on top.
henche: Now I'm taking a chance, but it was probably done to get a nicer surface. Then framing it out is to allow it to be ventilated and thereby reduce moisture migration, provided that the studs are not directly against the basement wall because then there is a risk of moisture migration into the framed-out wall.
Gnarpjohan: I am planning to build a vacation home with 1.5 floors and would like to have an airy living room on one short side of the house with large windows facing the water. The living room will be open to the ceiling, but there will be a furnished upper floor in the rear part of the house. The size of the house can be 7.2x10.8m or slightly larger. Is it common in this case to use a glulam beam from one
Gnarpjohan: I'm not a professional mason, but I've done some plastering work. If there are wooden strips along the floor, I would start by removing them. It will definitely be a messy job, so I would mask and protect door frames and other areas. Then, chip away porous plaster and especially around any cracks. Attach plaster mesh if a lot of plaster has been removed, and reinforcement can be helpful with
Viktor.J: 3000 [citat] 3000x5000 is still quite a hefty dimension for a decking structure.
Nordjohan: Hello, I am working on the construction of a machine hall/garage 8.4x19.2 m. The building will be divided into two parts where about 8.4 m of the length will be a "regular" double garage with a loft/upper floor using truss rafters, and the remaining part will be a "hall" with open to the ridge using scissor trusses. This has been the original idea for a long time, but I'm starting to lean towards
sinuslinus: It is the door leaf that swells during the summer months.
Cillitbang: Hello, I'm considering if it would be possible to recess a motorized roller blind into the wall in a good way. I'm unsure of how to go about it or if there's a company that specializes in similar things. I guess you would need to custom order some type of box to get it straight/neat.
Paesi: Hello! So, I have bought a split-level house from Fogelfors built in 1973. On the house's blueprint, there is a door between the kitchen and the living room, but for some reason, that door was never installed. I've acquired a pair of beautiful old double doors that I want to put there, but then there's the issue of whether it's a load-bearing wall or not, which I'm not too sure about. [bild]
PatrikJo: There are many ways to do that. One way is to finish laying the floor. Sure, it feels a bit silly to waste a board for a decimeter, but you can't win every time. If you had cut the first board a bit, you wouldn't even have reflected on this. Another way is to cut all four pieces from the same board. You do lose the grooving on the boards, but since it's only a few centimeters that will actually
uffeboman: [citat] [bild] 8 meters Cannot see any longitudinal beam. [bild]
Demmpa: The lintel of the frame should only be attached to the side pieces of the frame, otherwise, there may be problems if the frame needs to be replaced. There is usually a small gap between the frame and the wall. Nail/screw together a loose rectangle which is then installed in the hole above the door frame, the rectangle is screwed/nailed to the studs on the sides.