Building Materials and Construction Technology
Superrobban: [citat] Ok, it seems to work. I removed one from the trailer, it's supposed to be for a table leg. Merry Christmas wishes!
Håbbe01: [citat] There are lots of other brackets that are screwed on with more smaller than one large.
jonko: [citat] Absolutely. You can put anything that you can screw into behind it, a piece of gypsum, plywood, or any scrap you have lying around.
Pjmh: It is a 'typical' detached house. Partly crawl space foundation and partly basement. Wooden panel on the outside. Insulation... good question, but it might be wood shavings. Would need to tear down a wall to be sure. Mansard roof with attic. We will also extend the upper floor.
stefancrs: [citat] Not going to install it myself, just want to get an idea of what to expect when we tear it down and how much we need to build up again around the insert. But yes, getting a mason here is probably a good idea.
boxbygg: [citat] If there is a vapor barrier, isn't it more likely on the roof side rather than the wall? It's a townhouse built in 1984.
bortek: Hello I'm going to do exactly the same thing as you. Can you tell me how it has gone for you?
nino: [citat] I was thinking something similar but I think the forum has given me other ideas and it'll be a real roof as they suggested. Then you know it's sealed and you can insulate everything in the future if you want to. Edit: thought it was my thread you were writing in.
andreascarlsson: Here's how it looks without the molding. I think I'll keep it like this and paint it gray.
Isakare: At intervals, use a spacer tube and drill a larger hole that the tube fits into in the plasterboard. Thick-walled tubes of one meter can be purchased at the hardware store, which you cut to size yourself. But, if you have a stud around the middle of the bracket, drill 2 new holes in it and insert some large screws, then place 4 Molly in the regular mounting holes and you are 100% secure.
justusandersson: In a case like this where the beam is to function as a primary load-bearing structure (i.e., it replaces a heart wall supporting other beams), one could argue that the deflection should be kept even smaller, e.g., L/600. One must always use their own judgment.
Workingclasshero: Then you probably need to look above the bricks to know what happened, there might be a reinforcement there, or not.....
Tjrex: [citat] Well, I know Rockwool and Paroc have different installation directions regarding the felt. Also different with the recommendation about the metal at the bottom.
kulle: A standing load-bearing beam at the front is necessary, at the back it manages as it is due to cc60.
nino: If you are going to install several doors or if you have it as a job, then you might buy a box of each length, some different lengths and variants of screws, and some different thicknesses of washers. If you're going to install a door, well then you can either remove the old frame and measure the hole and calculate what you need for equipment or you can buy 8 sleeves of each and maybe some
KnockOnWood: [citat] Once a year then? What a hassle! Comment on my picture: We had so-called Klimatvind, with 100 mm of cell foam insulation on top of the sheathing, so it was warm, dry, and pleasant up there all year round.
1977bjorn: I had placed them with foam between the speakers and the wall to "decouple" them. Then ignored mdf. Single layer of plasterboard - only. There's no reason to make a super-stiff baffle if you're not going to attach the speakers to it... mechanically, that is. Instead, set a rule to "stand" them on.
stenna: Use gypsum plug HW Pro much easier to use than expander (Molly plug)
R Göran: I have a wall 2 x 2.5 m with a metal frame and a metal midrail, and 12 mm fiberboard on both sides. I drilled 2 x 1cm holes and used self-tapping screws for a hanger. Can this support a 30 kg painting?
Viktor.J: Hello, I can conclude the thread with the following. Quite a few boards had to be discarded. But with a bit more muscle on site, it was possible to handle things better. Did not use block and crowbar. That wasn't where the trouble was. So the usual warp that exists in planks was handled by hand to avoid damaging the panel and vapor barrier more than necessary. The remaining gaps we either had to
Jonas Birgerson: [citat] It's not solved yet, but I hope it will be when I start. I'll post pictures when it's done.
BSOD: From what I've seen, you cast in one go, but you need to have a bit of a feel for it. If it's a 3m high staircase, there will be quite significant forces at the bottom of the form, which must be considered. If you fill the form slowly, the lower part will harden slightly and not expand the form. Here are some tips: [MEDIA=youtube]ywIZClMNylM[/MEDIA]
Olofsson89: CAN [citat] Maybe it's just as well to skip the plastic then. I read that it wasn't as crucial under 200mm insulation. Maybe a risk of messing it up, it has looked nice with just chipboard at least.
Danne213: L-steel attached to the top of the structure that the brick can then rest on? Is it allowed to clad the reveal that is created?
justusandersson: With standard dimensions for floor joists in the middle floor, load-bearing interior walls (heart wall) are needed on the ground floor of the house. With a house width of 7 meters, they need to be located in the middle. If you want to avoid the middle, more parallel walls are required. If you use laminated beams in the middle floor, you can manage without load-bearing interior walls, but it will