Hello!
I have recently moved from a house to an apartment. My daughter's room is adjacent to the stairwell, and you can quite clearly hear people going up and down.
Without having measured exactly, the wall against the stairwell is about 4 meters long. I'm considering the best and most convenient way to dampen the noise from there.
My thought is to build up a new wall with some form of sound insulation and then drywall, wanting to take as little as possible from the wall.
What works best for sound insulation in this case?
Is traditional insulation + drywall the best, or can modern acoustic panels help?
My daughter would prefer wallpaper on the wall, so it needs to work aesthetically too.
Would gladly receive tips.
I have recently moved from a house to an apartment. My daughter's room is adjacent to the stairwell, and you can quite clearly hear people going up and down.
Without having measured exactly, the wall against the stairwell is about 4 meters long. I'm considering the best and most convenient way to dampen the noise from there.
My thought is to build up a new wall with some form of sound insulation and then drywall, wanting to take as little as possible from the wall.
What works best for sound insulation in this case?
Is traditional insulation + drywall the best, or can modern acoustic panels help?
My daughter would prefer wallpaper on the wall, so it needs to work aesthetically too.
Would gladly receive tips.
Almost all the walls in the apartment are concrete and require a hammer drill. But the wall against the stairwell sounds almost hollow when you knock on it. You can screw into it without a hammer drill. But still not gypsum, crumbly concrete, or whatever it's called.Appendix said:
And from the stairwell side, it's a standard plastered stairwell wall.
You can hear people talking in the stairwell, shoes hitting the stairs, and we have an intercom outside the stairwell. She hears it very well.
Preferably as cheaply as possible.
The problem is that nothing is "guaranteed" to work.
But the "simple" solution is to frame up a new wall next to the existing one. Ensure it is completely sealed against the old wall. Insulate/soundproof board and then drywall and paint.
But expect to lose 15 cm on that wall.
And it's not entirely certain that it will block out all sounds. Teenagers have much better hearing than us old folks.
But the "simple" solution is to frame up a new wall next to the existing one. Ensure it is completely sealed against the old wall. Insulate/soundproof board and then drywall and paint.
But expect to lose 15 cm on that wall.
And it's not entirely certain that it will block out all sounds. Teenagers have much better hearing than us old folks.
Here's how I'm going to do it, not sure if it's the best but I hope it will work for me.
First, I'll put rubber mats on the actual wall since I have extra and it doesn't cost anything. Then frame with steel studs 1-2cm from the existing wall and brace them properly. Insulate with mineral wool and then double layer of drywall on top.
First, I'll put rubber mats on the actual wall since I have extra and it doesn't cost anything. Then frame with steel studs 1-2cm from the existing wall and brace them properly. Insulate with mineral wool and then double layer of drywall on top.
If it is not rubber for residential use, there is a risk of odor and other issues. But if it is for indoor use, go ahead.AXS said:
This is how I will do it, not sure if it's the best but hope it will work for me.
First, put a rubber mat on the wall itself since I have extras and it doesn't cost anything. Frame with steel studs 1-2cm away from the existing wall and brace properly. Insulate with mineral wool and then double gypsum board on it.
Why steel studs and not wood?
Anyway, it seems there is no "this is how you solve sound problems" standard, so you have to try.
In multi-family houses, gaps between building elements seem to be a common source. Combined with structure-borne sound.
45x45 framework, stone wool insulation, and drywall on that. Of course, it's the smallest possible depth, but the thicker the insulation, the better the soundproofing. Clearly, 95mm will be better, but also more expensive. Acoustic panels are very unnecessary to invest in.
Just frame up and insulate, any thickness of choice.
Just frame up and insulate, any thickness of choice.
Something for speakers really, but good point. I'll double-check.Appendix said:
If it's not rubber for housing, there is a risk of odor and other issues. But if it's for indoor use, go ahead.
Why steel stud and not wood?
In any case, there doesn't seem to be a "this is how you solve sound problems" standard, so one has to try.
In multi-family houses, gaps between building elements seem to be a common source. Combined with structure-borne sound
Easier to cut and set up; for ceiling and floor, there's also something called acoustic stud. You can probably achieve the same function with wood and acrylic sealant.
I would set the stud 5mm from the existing wall and only anchor to the floor and ceiling. Then no acoustic stud is needed as they are primarily meant to break the connection between the sides in a standard wall with drywall on 2 sides.
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