Building Materials and Construction Technology
Limträ: Hello! How did it go for you? It should go absolutely excellently, but you might need to put some battens across to clamp the fabric. See below. I'm thinking of doing something similar myself in the spring, but I'm wondering how to counteract the activity of mice. https://teshell.teccaworld.com/kategorier/grund/kryp-och-plintgrund/vindskydd-i-trossbotten
Anonymiserad 405730: [citat] Cutting the parquet is preferable for the parquet to be able to move, so cutting the parquet and mounting the sill on the subfloor will be fine.
Matti_75: There are a few different options, build a cornice that you connect the crown molding to. Install the casing first and notch out the crown molding for the casing, allowing it to pass outside the casing. Install the crown molding first and cut a casing that connects to the underside of the crown molding. There are more options if you google, and you can find images.
Smynta: After much deliberation, this is the result we achieved. We built and tested simultaneously, and it has worked perfectly fine like this a year later.
Claes Sörmland: [citat] It's probably so that the plaster adheres better to the grooves? Presumably, it's part of the product.
MVJK: [citat] Ok. The boards are around the window frame so they have to stay. I'll look into minerit.
phillyone: How did it go for you here? I was thinking of doing something similar 🤓
KJD: [citat] [citat] Scraped some down with my Bacho two-hand scraper. It's tough on hands and shoulders but worked, and creates less dust. The question is, how do you know if something is asbestos-based? Then I come to the light concrete wall with similar covering, but got "wavy" and uneven results there previously with scraping—so I'm considering just leaving it there and filling over it. After
FellanD: [citat] When I was in a similar situation, I chose to send in an asbestos sample, I think it cost 500-600 SEK including shipping. I took a sample of my carpet and included a teaspoon of "glue-powder" and had it analyzed as one sample. I would have chosen the precautionary principle without a test; taped door, breathing mask, and protective suit are not expensive. A table fan on the windowsill
z_bumbi: If the plastic tiles are lying loose on the floor, they will move. So you need to attach some tiles at regular intervals until they are stable. Even if you choose a model with a smooth top, you will see and feel seams through the carpet. I have previously had Bergo on the balcony and have it under parts of a lifting platform today, so I like them, but not as ventilated flooring under a carpet. If
KJD: [citat] A question here: could one possibly consider attaching the mesh with putty? Let it half-cure, just to get it up on the wall. Then plaster over it. I am thinking here that I should spread putty like A46-type concrete putty/Finja Laga wall in my case, but still want to use mesh to reinforce the wall and hold together smaller cracks. Or is there any problem with this?
O: [citat] What is the point of tearing down the walls? Do you want cooking smells and noise in the living room? Then an alternative solution is to place a construction fan in the doorway between the dining area and the living room. That should give the same result at a lower cost. Additionally, you can easily turn off the fan if you change your mind...
Alexn72: Found a useful link, however skalmurar https://joma.se/file/skalmurshandbok-joma.pdf
Kris1: [citat] I chose to plaster the walls and insulate the base from the outside with eps.
BirgitS: Is there a risk of moisture through the floor or wall? If by thin drywall you mean 6 mm renovation gypsum, such material probably needs a sturdy and even substrate to avoid cracking. I'm thinking about how it looks above the door.
Friteradräka: [citat] Thanks, I'm hiring a company anyway. I don't want to clean it up myself, I don't have the time.
Byggare och renoverare: It became a slightly stronger beam, the lift was done with lifting straps and a chain hoist. The lifting/lowering was very successful and everything went as planned. The stove was pressure tested and approved today.
Mats-S: Wedges are probably the easiest, if you have a decent table saw you can cut them in about 5 minutes max. It might be a good idea to apply construction adhesive on the edges so they are firmly fixed and don't start sliding under heavier load.
Matti_75: 35mm long cardboard nail for the exterior drywall. 50mm nail for the OSB, note: not brad nails.
Anonymiserad 405730: [citat] You can tape holes and cracks with windproof tape.
Småbrukaren: Exactly 👍
S.Hellman: I am building an insulated outbuilding of about 20 square meters, where half will be a storage space for outdoor furniture, garden tools, etc., and the other half will be a workshop. It will be heated to around 16 degrees. The outer roof consists of tongue and groove boards, felt, battens, and sheet metal. The inner ceiling will be plywood, with 20 cm of insulation on top of that, leaving about a
Karl-Ove Qvarfordt: Houses from the 60s unfortunately have rather poor insulation.
Miniwonka: [citat] Thanks for the quick response! That's what I'll do 👍
PTZic: [citat] "Like thick tarpaulin"? Yes, that's what it was. It was fabric coated with rubber, and what made it thick was precisely the rubber. Just as thicker tarpaulins are coated with latex, i.e., rubber. A concrete house is built of concrete, even if it is reinforced with rebar. Here the fabric was the "rebar" meant to hold the rubber together. But they were still rubber tents.
Nathalie Quist: [citat] It does look much larger now that I see the picture I uploaded 😅 but it really isn't that big in reality, the baseboard will cover it completely. We've applied some coarser filler and we'll see how it dries. It's nothing that will be visible later, so we figured we might as well try with what we have at home :) if it doesn't turn out well, we can just cut it out and redo it 👍