Building Materials and Construction Technology
Rasmus S: [citat] Yep, looking for someone who can check it. Thanks for all the ideas.
BAv11: Thank you both. Yes, it's probably hard to know in advance, it's just a matter of opening up to get the answer...
Bongoloid: Great! It just requires placing some shoes on the shelves, so it doesn't need to be any remarkable construction 🙂
Anonymiserad 744266: Hello I am considering tearing down a load-bearing wall between the kitchen and the living room. The idea is to open up 4m The house is a single-story with a flat roof and is located in snow zone 1.5 I am thinking of installing a HEA 160 but am unsure if it's sufficient. What do you think?
KJD: I have an open ceiling with visible joists that support my interior ceiling, which I plan to attach an additional soffit to later. Therefore, I'm considering installing flexible conduit through these joists. [bild] Surely a silly question - but I need to run the flexible conduit across the roof ridge. Is there any risk to the structural integrity by drilling through this joist under the roof
plan-g: [citat] Thanks. I will tap on some joint and test it. If they feel stable and not brittle, it should be fine? Now I have covered with tarp and turned on the heater.
Alfredo: [citat] Cut one piece first and then use it as a template; place it on top when you cut the other three. You should cut the other three pieces one at a time using the same template for all. As long as you make sure the template aligns completely "at the other end" and you place the blade right next to the template, the pieces will be more than sufficiently "identical."
Slarvpellen: I built with Finja's insulated block base, unfortunately, they seem to have been discontinued. They were a cost-effective option between the Exakt system and uninsulated lecablocks. Can't find a similar variant so I would probably choose to either spend the money on Exakt or equivalent from another manufacturer (seems to have the same price range roughly) or go with uninsulated leca without any
mugatu: [citat] Ok, good. Then it's just a matter of filling over it, in other words. Thanks!
Jesper mångsysslare: What to do now is probably to document the cracks with photos and measure them to see if they get larger or if they remain the same over time, perhaps over the winter. If they've drilled and plugged isodrän or something similar on the outside, that might have caused the cracking. After, for example, the winter, you should probably chisel away a block at a gap and see if there is anything
Vardagsrum: Thank you so much for the tip 🙂 I have asked the question to SAPA. Unfortunately, I don't have access to the dimensions, as no profile remains. The little I have to go on is that it is at least a 45x45mm stud that the profile is screwed into. Visible on the drawing I posted in the thread. The forum often excels! But this will probably be difficult.. Grateful for suggestions on alternative
MultiMan: My stand was just pressed into the ground and consisted of 2 old T-irons, like old railroad rails, with an added wooden structure (which was rotten). Dug 2 holes deep enough, thoroughly watered the holes to prevent the dry soil from drawing water out of the concrete during curing, mixed washed stones and concrete, and screwed a temporary beam between the irons and leveled it. Let it stand for
ErikNorrby: Hello. My partner and I are renovating the living room in our old log house. We have removed the old and worn-out click flooring to reveal the old and beautiful wooden floor. We have also removed part of the wall to see what was behind it. There we found the remnants of the log wall that was part of the attic space that was there before. I wonder if the previous owner left part of the log wall
huff: Ended up moving after and adding some extra studs to get 400cc. Turned out awesome!
Småbrukaren: Sneaky or compliant. But honestly, lying beadboard?
Emgu: [citat] Nice! Now I've bought profiles. Hope I can do it just as well.
eiwallin: [citat] Great, thanks! Now I know how to proceed.
KJD: I've hit a bit of a snag in the "basement bathroom renovation" project. We think we've solved the floor (concrete), but we have walls with internal lightweight concrete elements. We were thinking of using microcement, and the instruction is to apply concrete filler (A46 or equivalent). I believe it's the same for tiles. Some suggest you can also plaster, but it seems even harder to get it smooth,
mexitegel: Sorry, read the headline. Looked at the pictures, forgot the headline and saw the black 🙈. But it could also be white mold, less likely it's gypsum since it has paper on the outside.
fribygg: If possible, coarse enough so that the screw does not go through, 45*70 becomes strong and good if it feels reasonable economically. (I myself have a low-budget wood shed made of sapwood and sawmill waste, maybe 100 years old sinus-corrugated thick metal roof without battens underneath)
AriNie: I ordered a canopy from Amazon.se, but a warning regarding delivery since they use PostNord around Christmas is appropriate. PostNord failed to deliver the canopy to the correct service point despite several calls to their customer service. It seems like they "don't care" about customers and come up with excuses!? The service point mentioned that it's a bit of "Russian roulette" if they
Kane: I would classify the central walls as load-bearing based on the fact that it's checked for inner walls under "Load-bearing part" and that they are drawn differently than those perpendicular to them. Note: I am not a structural engineer, I should add...
Patzie: Then if you actually have problems/need to renovate. It's a bloody hell to tear down if everything is foamed.
Appeplan: As mentioned, the plan is to insulate and drain before I start renovating the basement interior. Considering your responses, I will be doing regular KC-plaster.
Småbrukaren: When the frame was replaced, there were some movements in the wall, which led to cracks. I would apply some fine filler, sand, and paint.
Kardan79: [citat] My perception of both Nivell and Subfloor is that they are fantastic to deal with! We got a lot of tips and advice when we asked for it. And when Beijers messed up an order, Subfloor made sure to ship things directly to us (on-site within 24h of the call) and then sorted it out with Beijers afterward. If it is a relatively simple space to ventilate (four straight walls and no obstacles),