Building Materials and Construction Technology
Karl-Ove Qvarfordt: Houses from the 60s unfortunately have rather poor insulation.
Miniwonka: [citat] Thanks for the quick response! That's what I'll do 👍
PTZic: [citat] "Like thick tarpaulin"? Yes, that's what it was. It was fabric coated with rubber, and what made it thick was precisely the rubber. Just as thicker tarpaulins are coated with latex, i.e., rubber. A concrete house is built of concrete, even if it is reinforced with rebar. Here the fabric was the "rebar" meant to hold the rubber together. But they were still rubber tents.
Nathalie Quist: [citat] It does look much larger now that I see the picture I uploaded 😅 but it really isn't that big in reality, the baseboard will cover it completely. We've applied some coarser filler and we'll see how it dries. It's nothing that will be visible later, so we figured we might as well try with what we have at home :) if it doesn't turn out well, we can just cut it out and redo it 👍
Biggle: [citat] If you're not going to use the rooms for anything, it's quite pointless to pour in a lot of concrete that you then can never remove. Plastic isn't entirely optimal as moisture from below can get trapped there. Without knowing what you want the room for, I would suggest laying a ground sheet and gravel/grit on top and leaving the existing concrete.
Kåäll: [citat] That may very well be the case and the desire for a DIY project might be inappropriate considering the extent of the construction.
Tomtom79: [citat] It is actually possible to remove them again, neatly and nicely, if done correctly. But there is certainly a high risk for marks and damages that you can't patch up "invisibly"...
Martin Lj: [citat] Large extension with a 120 sqm building area. Last time I built, a structural engineer wasn't needed since I built a single-story. Now that I'm building two stories, the municipality wants dimensioning of the intermediate floor, among other things.
pennybridge: [citat] I agree after plastering with it for about 10m. I'm glad it was just that and nothing more.
petterovski: [citat] It is a rule of thumb to have at least 2/3 of the wall's insulation on the outside of the plastic. If the plastic is too far out in the wall construction where the temperature is lower, water vapor can condense against it in case of air leakage.
Breidan: Hi, I think I forgot to upload a picture. Here it is.
Saintus: [citat] Hi! Absolutely, but did you remove it, and how did it turn out? Any problems or oddities along the way? We will send the house plans to a structural engineer to get a construction drawing.
steppen7: The glulam beam is 90x315. Perfect with 90 thickness as it matches two 45 studs, which I made into my own glulam pillar with extra decking boards on the outside, creating a fork for the beam that is also glued, meaning the post-beam connection becomes a glulam construction and provides stability against lateral wobble. The balcony is 4.8m wide (8 sections of roofing sheet at 60cm each), but the
z_bumbi: Birch is often used in more expensive plywood, so check if you can order it in 2700 mm (to be able to trim the edges).
KarinC: Also looking. Has anyone ordered from abroad at a reasonable price?
Joak: [citat] The most common is to finish the walls with the facade and then lift them up with a crane truck. At least around here.
klaskarlsson: [citat] Can’t you just add more joists/bridging which also, via plastic shims, have contact with the slab then? Wood can absorb an enormous amount of compressive force, it's the deflection that can be a problem with heavy weight. Then if the framework has a rough dimension (say over 145x45) you should definitely ensure to have cross braces to prevent the wood from yielding with the grain
sinuslinus: Depends on what you are going to screw in. And the threads must, of course, grip the plywood. The threads should move freely in the piece you are attaching, i.e., you need to pre-drill a clearance hole. For example, 4.5-5 mm for a 4.5 mm screw.
henche: 20000 after root for about 60sqm (a bit of haggling but they only needed about two days for two people). That included electrical outlets plus recessed lighting tracks to adapt for. Personally, I would have bought new paneling instead of removing the paint...the paneling can contain two thousand knots and might not look very nice.
nino: Sent a message to the person I bought from and explained that everything I purchased was for indoor use and that they might want to check it with the house manufacturer or if they mixed it up. They thanked me for the info and not much more, they were mostly happy that I was satisfied 🤔
AbRhesus: [citat] Nice, will take a look at this
Anonymiserad 405730: I think most major construction retailers have here is an example 8x143 at Beijer..
flying_c: I'm trying to revive this old thread. What did you choose, and did it work well? In our house from 1920, the interior walls in the basement look similar. Mixed stones, and it feels like with a little effort, I could knock down all the interior walls before finding any really solid material. The exterior walls, however, are built with brick, so they seem fine.
J-banan: [citat] Alt.2 but not so tightly with the studs, otherwise there is no room for insulation😂
1Emil: Hello! I have just demolished a closet that was previously located between the living room and the bedroom (see attached images). Now I need to restore the walls, ceiling, and floor so that it looks nice and uniform. It mostly involves larger holes where there used to be chicken wire and plaster. I want to make it as durable as possible and avoid future cracks. Here is my plan so far: Attach new
kniv: [citat] Nothing came of it, as I wrote in the previous post, there were some dealers who were going to look at it, but then nothing more came of it. My guess is that it would be too expensive for the relatively small quantity.