Or to clarify the question.
We have bricked up an old garage door with leca and are about to plaster the whole thing.
Barely touched plaster before, so now we're trying to learn as much as possible from the dear Internet.
I'm wondering if it's simply possible to attach the reinforcement with a staple gun.
I understand that it won't hold as well as with heavier fasteners.
But is it necessary?
If everything goes perfectly, I guess it's the plaster that holds the net, not vice versa, once it's cured.
I'm not very keen on buying a huge pack of special fasteners for a 2.5 sqm wall.
And I also don't know where to find stainless staples in the usual local stores.
We have bricked up an old garage door with leca and are about to plaster the whole thing.
Barely touched plaster before, so now we're trying to learn as much as possible from the dear Internet.
I'm wondering if it's simply possible to attach the reinforcement with a staple gun.
I understand that it won't hold as well as with heavier fasteners.
But is it necessary?
If everything goes perfectly, I guess it's the plaster that holds the net, not vice versa, once it's cured.
I'm not very keen on buying a huge pack of special fasteners for a 2.5 sqm wall.
And I also don't know where to find stainless staples in the usual local stores.
Staple gun doesn't work but buy some galvanized krampor. https://www.bauhaus.se/krampa-nts-3...MI38e85v6Q7AIVD6WyCh3_kAbYEAQYBiABEgI5e_D_BwE
Building conservationist
· Malmö
· 256 posts
The net is not free either and is usually sold in rolls of 25 square meters. Anchors are not expensive, and a box goes a long way. However, the net shouldn't go all the way to the blocks, which is why those special plugs with the white hook exist. The net should be as far out as possible in the rendering layer. But it's not the end of the world if you pull it all the way in when doing it at home. It would have stayed up without the net too, but with leca, you should always use a net; otherwise, you might get neat cracks along the line of the joint on the blocks.
One tip is to prime before you set the net so that there is proper adhesion over the entire surface without missed points.
One tip is to prime before you set the net so that there is proper adhesion over the entire surface without missed points.
Good tip, I'm considering a similar project. What should I prime with?L Lerstenstegel said:
So varmförzinkat = galvat?
Ha, you learn something new every day. Then I have enough krampor at home and then some
Rödgrund is the plan, and then the net on top of that.
If you don't nail too closely, it should be airy enough in most places.
This feels like the most exciting work task I've taken on so far. I both dread and look forward to it!
Ha, you learn something new every day. Then I have enough krampor at home and then some
Rödgrund is the plan, and then the net on top of that.
If you don't nail too closely, it should be airy enough in most places.
This feels like the most exciting work task I've taken on so far. I both dread and look forward to it!
I nailed the net with those staples from Biltema. As you said, the net won't lie flush against the wall unless you nail it very tightly.
Technically, hot-dip galvanizing is not the same as galvanizing - they are two different methods of applying a layer of zinc on the metal. But the end result is roughly the same...
Technically, hot-dip galvanizing is not the same as galvanizing - they are two different methods of applying a layer of zinc on the metal. But the end result is roughly the same...
I have secured the plaster mesh with stainless staples using my pneumatic staple gun. Convenient when working alone. One hand holds and stretches the mesh while the other can staple it. But the aforementioned kramlor work as well, of course.
Guessing you had slightly heavier staples than Rapid 140 in that case-RB- said:
Maybe I'll go for something in between, staple it in place until it stops being troublesome, then nail it.
That was a good point, by the way.L Lerstenstegel said:
We have a funny little angle in a corner where we'll probably need to apply about 3 layers.
Should we try to wait to attach the net there until the final layer?
Building conservationist
· Malmö
· 256 posts
How much do you consider as one coat?
But sure, if you are plastering a very rough wall, you first apply a primer and then fill in the cavities before you can plaster the whole thing.
But sure, if you are plastering a very rough wall, you first apply a primer and then fill in the cavities before you can plaster the whole thing.
Around 10-15 mm?
I think the plaster at the thickest point will be a good 5 cm.
I think the plaster at the thickest point will be a good 5 cm.
You won't be able to apply that thick in one sweep. But it doesn't matter if there are multiple layers of mesh either, so the easiest way is probably to mesh everything and where you need to build up more plaster, you place a little more mesh.
No, I'm thinking you do one layer a day, kind of?
But it might be sensible, mesh the innermost part, plaster up until everything is level with the rest, and then more mesh. No risk that new plaster starts cracking if you nail it?
Today it's humid outside. The neighbor's plastered basement floor is a prime example of why you should prime well, you can see every block clearly!
But it might be sensible, mesh the innermost part, plaster up until everything is level with the rest, and then more mesh. No risk that new plaster starts cracking if you nail it?
Today it's humid outside. The neighbor's plastered basement floor is a prime example of why you should prime well, you can see every block clearly!