You can attach the next net and fasten the staples before the plaster has hardened.
 
n_sandstrom n_sandstrom said:
No, I think you do one layer a day, sort of?

But it might make sense to mesh first, plaster up until everything is level with the rest, and then more mesh. There's no risk that new plaster will start cracking if you nail it?

Today it's humid outside. The neighbor's plastered basement is a perfect example of why you should ground properly, you can see every block clearly!
The mesh's job is to prevent cracks, not to hold the mortar on the wall, that's the basecoat's job. There seems to be an overreliance on plaster mesh nowadays... Put as much effort into getting the mortar to stick to the wall; a softer mortar adheres much better than a stiffer one...

Seeing the blocks is because the mortar absorbs since the block is harder than the joint; personally, I usually use stronger mortar for leca/cement blocks than a regular b0-3 mm to avoid joints that absorb.

The consistency of the basecoat should be like soup and not like porridge as some believe, and the idea that red primer is something special is just because of the color. A basecoat should be so rich that you get bubbles in it when you stop the mixer, and it should be mixed like normal mortar in the beginning, at least 5 minutes, to get a homogeneous mix, and then you add more water and continue mixing for at least 20 minutes more. I usually mix a basecoat myself using the mortar intended for plastering but add more Portland cement so the ratio becomes 1:1 to 1:1.5 binder/sand. The basecoat should be sticky and strong to grip firmly and leave a coarse, jagged surface for the plaster to adhere to.

Any filling of unevenness should not be smoothed out but should be leveled off so that the surface remains rough, allowing the next layer of plaster to adhere well.

Many neglect cleaning the walls (if old plaster has been chipped off), but I mostly use a high-pressure washer and rotojet to remove all loose particles, and then the wall gets thoroughly wetted as well.
 
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R Roger Hermansson said:
The purpose of the mesh is to counteract cracks, not to hold the mortar on the wall; that is the task of the base mortar.
There seems to be a misplaced confidence in plastering mesh nowadays...
Spend as much effort on getting the mortar to adhere to the wall, a looser mortar adheres much better than a stiffer one...

The reason you can see the blocks is that the mortar isn't absorbing because the block is harder than the joint; personally, I usually build with leca/cement blocks with a stronger mortar than a standard b0-3 mm to avoid joints that absorb.

The consistency of the base mortar should be like soup, not porridge as people have come to believe, and the idea that red base is something special is just because of the color.
A base mortar should be so rich that you get bubbles in it when you stop the mixer, and it should mix like regular mortar for at least 5 minutes to achieve a homogeneous mixture before adding more water and continuing to mix for at least another 20 minutes.
I usually mix base mortar from the mortar that will be used for plastering but add more Portland cement so the mix ratio becomes 1:1 to 1:1.5 binder/sand.
The base should be sticky and strong to grip firmly and leave a rough, jagged surface for the plaster to adhere.

Any form of filling in irregularities should not be smoothed out but should be scraped off so that the surface is rough, allowing the next layer of mortar to adhere better.

Many people neglect cleaning the walls (if old plaster has been removed), but I mostly use a high-pressure washer and rotojet to remove all loose particles and then thoroughly wet the wall.
A question here: could one possibly consider attaching the mesh with putty? Let it half-cure, just to get it up on the wall. Then plaster over it.
I am thinking here that I should spread putty like A46-type concrete putty/Finja Laga wall in my case, but still want to use mesh to reinforce the wall and hold together smaller cracks.
Or is there any problem with this?
 
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