Building Materials and Construction Technology
emaengs: Thank you for the help...becomes a compromise: Lower a 28 so that the flooring chipboard on the "upper level" can rest on it (this way, this chipboard gets support underneath). On this, I then place the sill (45). Against the 28, I then place the lower flooring chipboard. Feel OK?
Samuel o Anna: I asked the owner but didn't get a clear answer, the realtor thought it was plasterboard. Now the papers are signed, so there's not much to do about it...I'm just curious.
maxtor: I have also torn out fixed studs from my basement.. However, I didn't have any that went under the fireplace. Can you take a picture and upload it so we can see what it looks like? Easier to give tips then.
Fein: [citat] It doesn't work everywhere, but you should definitely plan to have the beveled edge towards the corner. Otherwise, as Jesca says, it won't be noticeably visible.
itkonsult: The "pros" probably get their btg in the car.. Will probably have to buy the ballast out of necessity. The cement costs about 250kr per batch and roughly a cubic meter of ballast I estimate to be around 200. About 500kr per cubic meter then, quite okay if that calculation holds, about 7-800 cheaper than purchased btg.. Already 2 cubic meters per hour becomes a decent saving..
mijo66: OK! Thank you for the answer. I'll try with gipsputs. Best regards, Micke
monsterbyggare: Is it really necessary to have underfloor heating on the 2nd floor if you have underfloor heating on the 1st floor? Many say that underfloor heating on the ground floor is enough for it to rise to the upper floor and still be warm enough, especially in houses in central Sweden? Correct me if I'm wrong, this is just what I've heard. M
smidifix: Maxit 319 you have max 100mm op. If I were you, I would have reinforced so the reinforcement sticks up from the first layer when you are going to put the second one so you have the same reinforcement through both layers, that should be enough!! Then you can mix the concrete with small/large stones so you don't have to use as much concrete.
AndersS: Nail so that the notch is downwards, the gap between the notch and the spring is less visible, so it goes from top to bottom. I've used these clips a bit, but now I exclusively use their model that you screw and especially in the ceiling, it's easier to screw.
niclaus: Hello, new to the forum even though I've surfed around and followed many threads with interest, and have tried to gather information so that I wouldn't have to make this post. I hope I am posting in the right forum. My questions concern the building you can see in the two pictures. It has been an old grain warehouse/storage and is mainly built on a stone cellar. What I'm wondering about is how I
wimpyfudge: Hello! I have a little dilemma and would need the forum's help to figure out what I can do. I'm going to renovate the kitchen, and this work involves removing a wall between the dining room and kitchen (marked in red on the picture). I have measured and found that the wall is 24 cm thick (brick/stone/concrete). And it is reportedly load-bearing and will require an offset with a beam. Today, the
Mats: if you only have panel otherwise, I would not recommend attaching to it, but a couple of planks on the topside of the panel and through bolts plus lock nuts should work fine. The planks should be seen as washers in size XXXXL.
Styx: This is how we do the corners, in this picture it is a 170 frame - but the principle is the same regardless of dimensions.. You place the plastic between the standing and horizontal inner studs, so you get a great space for water, electricity, network, etc. Of course, you can add another layer of horizontal studs on the outside if you want to..!!
hästvärme: Hello I have started digging to expand the basement area outside the house. The reason is to make room for a new accumulator tank and firewood storage. The basement is being dug along the long side of the house and a bit "past" the house. On top, the plan is to build a deck with a roof on part of it and without a roof on another part. I am considering using a wooden joist for the ceiling (in the
Elvis69: Ask the company you are buying the beam from to weld a knap onto it, i.e., flat iron or plates which you then screw the posts into with bolts or through bolts. It is not uncommon to weld nail plates onto load-bearing beams that are then nailed to the posts. If the posts are stable, it will take a lot for them to fall off... :)
Marald: This might still be too expensive, but it would be fun to know if it works at all... Question: If you are going to recast a bathroom floor because the slope is wrong, and then want a wooden floor (teak ship flooring) on top of this, how do you do it? Is it feasible? I imagine the wooden floor will crack if it doesn't lay completely flat... So there's a concrete base underneath, and I've heard
Kurtivan: Maybe you can learn something about listing slanted ceilings here? http://hvilaro.blogspot.com/2008/07/gering-taklist.html
imported_Byggaren: [citat] I must object to three of your claims. "I picked out solid stone from the 1930s, because it doesn't freeze and crack." It can indeed freeze and crack. It's not about the age of the brick, but how the brick is made and fired. Freezing risk in brick only exists where there is water left in the stone. Water can be encapsulated in two ways: centrally in the middle or in the outer layer. Brick
imported_peter: Glue!! use Casco Superfix, really great glue...
Havsutsikt: Forgot to mention that a weave or wallpaper won't hide a bad spackling in side lighting; there will be shadows regardless. So spackling and sanding are important whether you choose a weave or to paint directly.
Bödde: I have an upcoming construction "problem" that I need opinions about. We have two parallel buildings that we are joining into an H-shaped building. The roof trusses are on the way, and after swelling and felting I want to start setting up the exterior walls - but I'm afraid of trapping moisture... The wall construction is standing 120x45 and on the outside 45x45. So we are going to have vertical
oskis 123: I agree. It's always easier to start from scratch as much as possible during a more extensive renovation. That way, you can ensure that the angles look right and the studs are well placed. Plumb and level, etc....
Mäster: Oooh, those were expensive things, especially considering that no one is buying any houses, so I'll have to go down to 40% for a while.. Well, now I know what it's called, I'll keep searching, or make something..
imported_Byggaren: Best to tear down all plaster and rendering. It will just turn into rubbish if you start tampering with it, whether you try to groove for hidden electrical installations or nail drywall on top. Even a hefty blow with a hammer on the wooden wall can cause the plaster to end up on the floor. Dusty? Certainly. A face mask and safety goggles, as well as gloves, are recommended for those who will be