Building Materials and Construction Technology
jeppeknaster: Logan, use the search function and search for besta, then you will find newer and better threads. Regards, Jesper
menhir: Anaitis: Thank you for your calculation. I chose "Beam over free opening" in the program and then entered the width as 14400mm (Actual width is 7200mm, but they calculate on a gable roof so I doubled the width to get the correct width for "my" roof) and the opening 7200 (21600/3=7200). Roof: sheet metal roof without insulation, slope 15 degrees. The only option I get then is 115x630mm. If instead
pirk: You can take a spillbit, läkt, etc. and nail it to the beam further ahead as a holder until the board is mounted. When you reach the attachment, move the board forward.
smidifix: yes, there are of course double couplings you can put in where you cut the pipe. I think it's in some joint where it is not fully glued, causing it to move at the joint when pressure comes from the water when you flush.
kimpo: Yes, if you put tiles on a sun-heated surface, you need to make sure to add some water at regular intervals. The concrete usually doesn't have the same temperature as the outside temperature since it stores heat or cold. If you have the underfloor heating turned on, the concrete will consistently stay between 20 and 30 degrees.
daun: I myself have a steep roof, about 40 degrees, and it will have single-camber clay tiles.
Bloink: No problems with concrete roofs. Used a couple of sturdy plastic plugs and suitable screws. I recall that a brown plug can support 75 kg straight down. Found a table, hope someone else can interpret what unit they have specified the shear/tensile strength in?! http://www.gunneboindustrier.se/segbo/notesamp/internet/segbo00007.nsf/viewunid/195F27AA516952D7C1256BAA00411730/$file/Plastplugg.pdf
ppalm: if the insulation in the wall is concerned, it might be the following Lambda values they mean. KL = theoretical insulation value P = practical insulation value with deductions for moisture (-W) //P
gaia: do you need chipboard in the floor? Why not cast a concrete slab on the ground with insulation underneath and embedded underfloor heating? gaia
LenaBenny: I'm thinking about installing a skylight in our Älvsbyhus, Höner. They've used reinforced plastic for the outer roof instead of solid wood sheathing, and I'm wondering if anyone has experience with this? The roof is quite flimsy, what's the risk of leaks?
blackadder: if you haven't laid the parquet yet, the posts can be placed in large feet that provide good support. they will be hidden by the parquet afterward. alternatively, a pipe stump that the post fits over.
Yrrol: Anyone with a bedroom on the other side of the railing-wall? Is it possible to get rid of all the noise, I wonder? Not thrilled about the idea of building the stairs on the wall for this reason. A railing conducts less but more than no railing at all... hmm...
Styx: [citat] That assumes you cut all the way down to the corner on the eave side… (though that's probably what you meant - just wanted to clarify) I have made that mistake several times when we've placed Windy on gables :) Let's say the pink is the part you are going to put up. If you only cut the excess there, the other piece won't be enough for the other side. You kind of have to add those 35 cm
tob_ekl: Hello, I am going to cast/flow a slope on a terrace I am building. It is a multi-family house and this is an attic that will become an apartment with a terrace. The bottom layer is the concrete slab. On top of that, we have now installed 50mm polystyrene insulation (for outdoor use) which is fairly firm and stable. Now we are going to cast the slope towards the drain. Once that is done, the
zankan: The door is the problem, as I said. The wall's construction matters less in this case. Tightness at the top and bottom. Sweeping strips or similar are needed. But difficult to make it tight enough to achieve decent sound insulation.
imported_Byggaren: If it is nailed wood paneling on top of the former plaster facade, you can forget about exposing the plaster. It will not remain intact after the removal of the wooden facade. Depending on how the house is built (stone or wood frame), there are different techniques to re-plaster the house. If it's a stone house, it goes relatively easily. If it's a wood frame, it can be a bit more challenging. A
kimpo: It's probably Ghia flooring that you've heard about. http://swedspan.sitedirect.se/websites/swedspan/sd_page/20/1/index.php
almanakis: I am going to build a gazebo, considering these panels, this gazebo will be insulated and used as an office. The construction from the outside is as follows: Outer panel, battens (air gap), wind paper, studs, insulation, and then cross battens followed by the paneling, will this be sufficient? I've spoken to several people who think I should skip the vapor barrier after the insulation, what do
Immobil: You get a much more stable attachment between the steps. Since the step is over-tensioned, it also affects the step below. The type of solution shown in the link will not provide a lasting result. When the glue has dried and the nail starts to work loose, the stairs will creak again. OK, it may hold for a year at best. As I mentioned in my previous post, glue is banned in stair contexts. The same
svemark: Because it is convenient and fast, and the wall is made of concrete which needs to be drilled to insert screws.
Andreas083: I don't know if the stability changes, but you can reinforce under the treads with a small triangular strip or something similar. I assume the entire construction is visible? If you are going to paint the stringers, you can make pieces with a rip cut and "fill" the grooves after the risers. A little putty and paint then nothing shows. Consult a staircase maker.
Karl_84: Thanks for all the tips! It was impressive how much expertise there is. I'll try one of the above.
goahead1978: Well, thinking about a solution where you build a false ceiling that is a fabric hanging directly between the rafters without any other substrate, which means that the fabric is a few centimeters lower in the middle of the bay so to speak, as it cannot be hung straight, partly for drainage and partly because there are a number of battens even in the middle which are somewhat thicker than the
mycke_nu: A simple way to find out if the wall is load-bearing is to, as the DIY enthusiast suggests, start cutting the wall in the middle with a reciprocating saw. If the wall pinches the saw blade, it is load-bearing.
goahead1978: I'm facing a small dilemma just before purchasing the materials needed to continue with my construction project. I'm building an apartment in an old barn/stable with parts from the mid-1800s in the framework, but we're only talking about logs as the frame, so to speak, with regular planks on the exterior. The new construction is inside this, preserving the old structure, which is partially built
tank77: [citat] Totally unnecessary and the tape is only used when painting. There's no risk that the tiles sink in, unless it's some very thin mosaic.
Wester: We have a 14-degree slope and it works great. This is on two dormers, and it has been like that for a very, very long time with no problems at all. We also have it on a woodshed with an 8-degree slope and it works fine, but I wouldn't have such a low slope on a roof with insulation and stuff underneath.