Building Materials and Construction Technology
MobbA: Byggmax has these prices: 13mm Gypsum: from about 23 SEK/sqm 11mm OSB: about 44 SEK/sqm 10mm Particleboard: around 25 SEK/sqm 12mm Particleboard: around 32 SEK/sqm
bearpower: Anyone with experience using Biltema's pre-mixed adhesive? :) It does seem quite convenient at least... but it needs to be good too...
Bajen02: http://www.paroc.se/channels/se/building+insulation/solutions/roofs+renovation/default.asp
Mäster: If the vapor barrier is not sealed around the house's four walls and roof, moisture will seek out more intensely where there is no plastic. The only way to achieve this (almost) is to tear out all interior walls and ceilings, so that all that remains is an insulated shell, without even drywall. Then you can start wrapping, and make sure to have overlaps, the seam should preferably be at a stud,
snickar_lasse: Hello! Certainly no problem, it usually works to install a door. The load is probably not on the brick, I assume. You start on the inside, with demolition. Now you have to decide whether a beam is needed over the section. If there is a beam, a pillar is needed on each side of the beam. During the installation of a possible beam, it may be necessary to prop it up while the beam is put in place.
ByggaNytt: Don't know exactly, but it was expensive... It was supposed to be puncture-proof!
johan771: Hello. I have a question about how you can/should do regarding the joists and wall on the upper floor. Option 1: Do you place the joists (for the upper floor) on the wall plate all the way to the outside, and then the wall on the joists? (bearing length 220mm) Option 2: If you build up the walls with 45*220 on the ground floor and the wall for the upper floor with, for example, 45*170, you have a
v-g: If you are going to keep the fabric, for heaven's sake, be careful with it. A tear can spread as far as possible, at least in my fabric. I cut off a piece when a wall was to be moved and thought I was smart by stapling before I cut. Cut with a utility knife that I thought was sharp, yet it became a tear that was about to spread in the ceiling due to the tension. I'm going to install paneling in
gadu^: Hornbach probably has huntonit or at least something similar that isn't chipboard. Will go with that in the hallway, kitchen, and living room... 69kr/sqm...
johan_ben: I have just torn down the walls in the hallway, thus creating a larger hall. Unfortunately, it turned out that the ceiling height varies a bit between the previous rooms. I am now planning to put up battens and then install some type of ceiling. It now strikes me that I have no idea what material I should use. The rest of the house (from the 1930s) has white plastered ceilings. I want to have
niblom: It was stated in instructions from Finja on how it should be bricked. But I thought it was strange, especially in this application. I have to consider whether I should dobba or not.
Bloink: Hi. I'm going to help an acquaintance build a small tack room, and I'm wondering how others have done it? Should I insulate the walls and ceiling? Saddles, boots, and textiles probably wouldn't do well in the cold year-round. What have you used for a door? Do insurance companies require a specific door, or is a lockable interior door sufficient? Best regards, Joacim
erber: Tearing down the walls to get cc30 studs in the bathroom for tiles. The house was built in 68/69. There's a bit of a "use what you have" approach to the whole build, I've noticed the more I tear down and break. Not really wrong, but for *****'s sake, so many nails. The carpenter must have been paid based on how many and how thick the nails he drove in.:D Never experienced anything like it.
Fredrik.engdahl: you can have foam plastic on the roof, check the link http://www.thermisol.se/takisolering.php
tank77: No problem with placing new tiles on top of the old ones, there is adhesive for this. Lips Super Trope for example. I, however, would have kept the green mosaic, it looks awesome with the white cabinets. There will be way too much white and you're going to have white tiles as well.
wedge73: Well, it wasn't more than 1-2 years ago... But can't find it online ... I agree that it goes against everything that is currently accepted... I still have a feeling that he seemed to have a point...
gadu^: [citat] What do you mean here? Is it enough to, for example, spray loose-fill insulation into the floor if it would be possible with respect to studs, etc.? For example, is it not necessary to make it airtight against the outer wall?
Onelight: Can you access so you can see the rafters? Are there any joints on the rafters? With the opening you are going to make, it may unfortunately involve a single rafter that needs to be bypassed. You can do this easily from above instead if the rafters are not already load-bearing, i.e., if they rest on the exterior walls. I had a similar problem and called in a carpenter to look at the issue. He
klintan: An old thread, but I bought both a more expensive smooth fiberglass fabric and painting felt, the painting felt was much cheaper but the more expensive one was easier to put up and absorbed less paint so in the end the expensive one was cheaper.
Martin_Blomberg: [citat] OK! Trying to upload a picture taken a few months ago.
hundvakten: We are planning to add a floor above part of the house. It is a square area with sides of 8 - 8.5 m, with a gable roof and a wall height of about 1.8 - 2.0 m. The outer roof should have a slope of about 15 degrees and be made of metal. The house is located on the coast in the Kalmar area.... We do not want any kind of attic and prefer that the insulation follows the outer roof or is located
Onelight: It's been resolved. I had an experienced carpenter with me yesterday who looked at the problem. We didn't need to do any reinforcement but for safety's sake, I will reinforce the two rafters in question up in the attic instead.
dennisson: Support the remaining floor with?:D Joking aside, I understand what you mean master:) I've cut all the studs now, no sway or anything on the upper floor :) I'll send in a couple of pictures later.
robsarve: Sounds like you're looking for expanded metal, there are plenty of variants, google to find a supplier near you and check their range.
