Building Materials and Construction Technology
Bödde: Yes, a dehumidifier is obviously needed. Silly of me not to think of it... But then should I skip ventilation during the "drying time"?
magni: If it is as you write, then it indicates that there is blåbetong in the walls. I did a little research and found, among other things, the following table at the link below. Sv sievert μSv/h microsievert per hour (new unit) μR/h microroentgens per hour (older unit) nGy/h nanogray per hour 1 μSv/h = 100 μR/h 1 μSv/h = 855 nGy/h http://georange.se/upload/9915689.pdf Which I
bsba: I haven't installed the electric heating yet, but I think I will anyway. The reason is that I have a fairly new house that is well-insulated and usually has a low temperature in the loop, to completely shut down during the summer months. However, you want a little heat (usually) in the bathrooms (which this is) to dry up and for comfort. I already have electric heating in the other bathroom. The
vtl: Did a test drilling next to the skirting board. There was 150 cm between the studs! Probably a porous wood board on horizontal wooden paneling. Now it's rock solid. Thanks for the answers! I'll check out the stud finder for next time. Regarding the rule book... Yes, you are actually really funny!!
Mr Saab: Actually don't know. But what I do know is that it must be very difficult for moisture to lie against the concrete now...
monsterbyggare: With an expander, you also only drill holes (in both wood & concrete) and then insert the expander, place a large square washer so the nut doesn't pull into the wood. It's more durable than nail plugs in my experience, but that's just my opinion...
gnilrub: Well, that's also an option that I think I'll skip. Quite a bit more expensive than particleboard but not that much better. Not much cheaper than plywood or raw planks but quite a lot worse. So it kind of falls between the cracks. However, I saw that the prices for raw plank doors seem quite steep, so I'll probably skip that idea. Will probably go with the original plan anyway.
MaZtoR: Can't see any reason why it shouldn't work.
Jenny_L: Thanks for the response! Compact yes, the negotiation about space is still ongoing with my husband. Either I continue to advocate for more space, or I concede here and get what I want indoors instead (hihi). Now, lambs aren't that large when they need heating. About 2-4kg. And the storage will probably be mostly for medicine and other things that shouldn't freeze. But as I said, we'll see how the
templar: ok, but then there is probably one more thing that differs. On the ridge tiles I have, the ridge profile is pointed if you know what I mean. While the valmklockorna have a round ridge profile. It feels like the valmklocka should cover a wider ridge tile as well. I have thought about selling these and it would be good to know the names of the models and which roof/tile/pitch they are suitable for.
wilhelmson4: We divided our laundry room and integrated a third of it with the hallway. There, we have laid tiles according to all the customary standards (new joists between the old ones to get 30cc, heating chipboard, Sepro 626, floor plasterboard, and tiles). We set the last part of the tiles yesterday, so today we had time to wash... It is an old house, circa 1905, and the washing machine is a couple of
Mäster: You can place plastic in the storage area in that case, inside the insulation, and also under the insulation in the ceiling. However, it is probably not necessary, assuming you will have it heated afterward, for all eternity. http://www.byggahus.se/forum/smahus-garage-friggebod-m-m/108882-fragor-om-isolering-och-om-diffusionspaerr.html
bsba: You apply a moisture barrier on the outside so they never come into contact with moisture, so why stainless?
fks: I forgot to mention that if you want to be really thorough, you should also have heat plates above the heating coils. They distribute the heat effectively. However, this is usually most important under wooden floors, for example, in living rooms, because the wood itself insulates better than ceramic tiles. We won't have heat plates, as we believe it will be sufficient without them and it's also a
Mats: Purely in terms of strength, stay as centered as possible :) lowest stress on the wood there
PX-21: How is the drainage? If it must be done anyway?... Newly drained is something that increases the price... as previously mentioned! all insulation and protection on the outside... nice plastered walls inside... increases ;) Best regards
kimpo: Nail gun, then you can dab some latex into the hole and paint over with a bit of touch-up paint. Looks awesome!
Elvis69: [citat] This whole discussion about wet rooms can be summed up with "it depends"! It depends on what your insurance company says, it depends on what surface you're going for, it depends on which industry regulations you or your tiler work by, and it depends on which waterproof membrane is to be used. 1. Usually, the insurance company will tell you to follow current industry regulations and the
inez: I think there is a family that has done that who lives a little further away from us... their house is probably built around the 50s/60s and half of the short side and part of the long side are glass. Looks cool! But how they've done it etc... no idea. Fun idea anyway!
torrum: Thank you, no, no sound or special fire requirements. Another question. Is there OSB or plywood for a ceiling height of 250 cm? Unfortunately, it doesn't seem so.
zrajm: Planning to build a wall-mounted shelf on the exterior wall in my studio apartment, and I would need a long board as the top and unifying shelf. I'm looking for birch laminated board, as the rest of the shelf is made of it. The problem is that ideally, my shelf would be 250x3800mm and at the hardware stores, I only find boards with a maximum length of 2400mm. (25mm or thicker, I want.) Is there
jerk: The one I used could be pushed apart like a clamp. I think Jula sells a telescopic support that works like that for 149 SEK.
twtwtw: Hello, I am decorating the attic. I have 5 beams running straight across. Initially, they were 2 inches wide. I have saddled on 2 more inches to give more of an attic feel to the beam. However, the wood differs in color, the old versus the new, and there are nail plates on the beam. So my idea is to clad the beam with some material and paint/stain it to get a real attic feel, in the color of a
ByggaNytt: Yep, about twice as large/long as the pillar. In my case, approximately 250*150 * 5 mm on a 150 mm Lecavägg.
jejje: Thank you, Michael. This is what I wanted to hear, the builders start tomorrow and it's supposed to be freezing all week. I've prepared with antifreeze, tarps, and a gas heater. Should work then. Jens
gaia: [citat] Plaster on cell foam is a kind of tight plastic plaster and in my opinion unsuitable for wooden walls, so I would not want it on an old wooden house. If you insulate too much from the inside or refrain from heating in certain rooms, the rendering/plaster will freeze away, meaning the plaster dries too slowly and frost bursts damp plaster. Check where the plaster falls off and consider