Building Materials and Construction Technology
patman: Hi! Does anyone have any tips on where to find this? Planning to put it on the wall. Considering using flooring. I would like the boards/panels to be about 2.60m high. It shouldn't look "patched" together, no seams on the height of the plank if using floorboards. The finish should be like oak when it ages and is exposed to a bit of "weather." Thank you very much! Patrik
bax: Consider fire safety if you do it yourself. It gets incredibly hot above the insert, you must have a substantial amount of stone/mortar as a buffer against the ceiling if you extend the fireplace all the way up there.
hanniss: Hi Mikael! Thank you so much for the photos. This is exactly what we are looking for. The wall shelf you made is very nice! Thanks again. Best regards, Hanna
mycke_nu: http://www.byggahus.se/forum/stenhus/86997-gjuta-prefabvaeggar-sjaelv.html Check out especially the post about http://www.maskinisten.net/viewtopic.php?t=5586
BosseHansson: I have done some plastering for my own sake, and as Lymmeln says, it takes time for those who don't know how. I have more patience than money :) I would have made sure to remove paint, etc., and then asked for a quote from a company for the work. A long straightedge is good to have if you don't plan to put any strips to pull off after.
BosseHansson: Personally, I have removed all the plaster/paint in the room I am renovating, then refinished the wall. However, I didn't find the surface smooth enough, so I have skim-coated it with adhesive for tiles. Significantly nicer to smooth out with than plaster according to my experience. However, I know others have managed very well with just plaster. I would completely avoid gypsum products, even if
torparkillen: Hello I wrote a while ago about the ceiling in my cottage. I have removed the ceiling panels in the cottage and exposed the old board underlay ceiling. This old ceiling has gaps that are too large, so the insulation that lies directly on top seeps through. I got some different tips last time I wrote, and now I've decided to install a new beadboard ceiling. My question is whether I need to have a
greenis: Hello. I am planning to extend the house this spring and I have come across a problem. I have a staircase from outside into the basement, and I plan to extend over that staircase and build a new one from the inside. I would appreciate tips on how you would solve the problem. I am attaching a poor picture so you can see what I mean. The green is the extension. The red in the picture are the
Bödde: And it's so much easier to work with! Flexible and much easier to attach! Just slather it on! ;)
hempularen: I think like the others here that it's nothing to worry about. If you insist on fixing it, the simplest way would be to install new sparse paneling, properly leveled, between the existing panel boards. I believe leveling each attachment point for the drywall individually would be an impossible project. It's absolutely not a major flaw. When I renovated the kitchen in our house (built in the 30s),
GunnarM: Nail plug, that was a good idea! Did the mounting adhesive make any difference? I would probably need to prime my old dusting plaster wall if I were to make it stick. Now I found an old thread, where someone suggested setting double 45 battens instead, but the first one horizontally and the second vertically (and attach with nail plugs!). So it will be.
vagabondo: cannot be sanded as it is too uneven (and slopes the wrong way)
Bror: I bought from Beijer and paid 2935 kr/roll 1.5x50 m. That was in May 2006. The vapor barrier Halotex D50 cost 1730 kr/roll 2.7x25 m. I haven't used the others, so I don't know if one is better than the other, but all three are well-known brands, so the difference is probably small.
utgång: Searching high and low for allmoge moldings as shown in the image: It concerns a ceiling molding (94 mm wide), casing (91 mm), and baseboard (91 mm). The ceiling molding can be found in a sufficiently similar, albeit not identical profile at various sawmills. However, I can't find the casing and baseboard anywhere. It might be hard to see in the image, but the casing is a profile with slight
evoline: No insulation and no TV stand will be needed. M that's exactly how it should be, the TV should cover the holes. Thanks Fain for the tip.
Fein: I can add that it is a tough job. Tip! Use scaffolding preferably on wheels. A ladder is useless because you have to move it all the time. If you have a fairly new construction with good cc-measurements, there are prefabricated panels for this purpose that are covered with paper, i.e., a bit stiffer, which you staple to the roof truss. My cc-measurements are somewhere between 1270mm and a meter,
goahead1978: Master, where are you in the Mälar region? I'm building outside Enköping.
mandus: Perhaps this could be something? They are quite expensive outdoor furniture though...
Gripenland: I have bought used metal from Hammars bygg http://www.hammars.nu/ They have a warehouse in Lindome. Most of it is quite large dimensions, so it's best to call first and check what they have.
jeppeknaster: Go to YouTube and search for concrete or concrete countertop and you'll find lots of instructional videos on how to proceed. You can spend hours. In Äntligen hemma they also cast countertop slabs in concrete, search on their website.
Martin_Blomberg: And here you can see exactly how to build a "friggebod" step by step: http://www.gp.se/gp/jsp/Crosslink.jsp?d=596
akhagen: There is an enormous amount of knowledge on this forum. I thank you and bow! I think I'll start with my own sketches, and when I really know what I want, I'll move forward. Thanks!!!
mandus: Here are designs for different greenhouses. http://bioengr.ag.utk.edu/Extension/ExtPubs/PlanList97.htm#Greenhouse%20Plans
mattiasj78: We found a stainless Rapid variant in the building trades store. But the thing with staples is quite a jungle. Every manufacturer seems to have their own dimension. The stainless ones I've seen are 10.6 mm wide. Does anyone know where I can buy a 10.6 mm staple gun (pneumatic)? Or what other stainless widths are available?
uffe59: Planning to open up about 150 cm in an 8 m long load-bearing wall made of single row red brick. There are already 2 door openings from before, and I plan to close off one of these and reinforce it significantly. My actual question, can one hope to find a craftsman who can do the whole job, i.e., calculate loads, support, cut the hole, and frame it, or are these different jobs? I am also grateful
uffe59: I personally removed the insulation from a professionally insulated container this summer because I don't want insulation and it takes up space. The construction was hardboard - 5cm styrofoam - hardboard. So, a kind of sandwich construction. It becomes very strong. In my case, it was an old container that leaked water, and of course, the hardboard takes damage from that. However, I believe a
templar: I have just installed an attic ladder because my old attic hatch was condemned by the chimney sweep. I bought one like this from K-rauta: http://www.byggera.se/media/pdf/royal_polar_vindstrappa.pdf. It is insulated and I think that's something to aim for. The insulation is foam plastic and the insulation value is 0.43 W/m^2. The foam plastic might function as a vapor barrier but I'm not certain
Elvis69: Would probably use steel studs instead of wood. There are secondary profiles that only build 25 mm.