Building Materials and Construction Technology
spamb: yes that is correct thanks stringfelow for the correction use wall gloss 7 and ceiling gloss 3 and if you're going to paint the kitchen gloss 20
yens: I was considering a similar solution to yours when a very kind person here helped me think of a better option, so I used metal studs to lower the ceiling. Extremely convenient, and it also felt nice to have a concrete ceiling, metal studs, and plasterboard given the spotlights that are mounted; not much flammable here... I have some photos from my ceiling lowering in the thread about my kitchen,
magnusss: I would place the rough surface outward to achieve a rustic feel. Try to find older timber if possible, like used exterior paneling or similar, which can be turned inside out.
Totte_S: What should be straight? Is it the sawing or nailing that you think will be a problem? Most arches have probably often previously been a rectangular hole in the wall. Start by removing the arch. Cut the wallpaper with a razor blade beforehand, and maybe you'll save it if you’re not going to re-wallpaper. (It will probably be easier to get a good result if you do it in conjunction with new
Magerget: I have renovated an old mission house and of all the "old pros" I've asked, everyone (except, of course, the city planning office...) has said that you should never use plastic in old wooden houses. The explanation I got was that there is so much wood in the walls that it absorbs moisture, and plastic causes the wood to stop breathing, which can lead to problems down the line. Now, my walls have
magnusrx7: [citat] I've already got joists. They were supposed to be installed by the supplier, but it never got done. He was also supposed to fix the joint, but I've given up on him. Complaint on the way. I haven't had time to go out and count what I have, but I'll do it. Thanks for the tip about glue! I'll have to check that out. //Magnus
Valbobygge: Found this product: Mataki Teno Tatmassa. http://www.trelleborg.com/sv/Waterproofing/SE/Produkter-och-Losningar/Byggtatningsmaterial/Mataki-Teno-Tatmassa/ According to Mataki's description, it should have good adhesion. Will try to find a retailer for it.
magnusss: Good thread about framing basement walls. http://www.byggahus.se/forum/byggmaterial-byggteknik/40280-hjaelp-ang-gips-pa-kaellarvaeggar.html
JKPK_peter: We bought our letters for our number at the village. They were about 15 cm high in metal and work perfectly on the facade!
begge: What is the problem with the ceiling-wall joint? Attached is a picture of the storage area, currently there is an inner ceiling there, which functions as a platform from the garage... /Emil
evoline: aha ok, then I should try to find the rule under the plaster ceiling. Thank you very much for the answer.
Consensus: Why do something about the rules themselves in the first stage? If you have moisture in the foundation or walls, that's what you should address first.
markr: Hello, We have a townhouse from 1974 with a basement made of prefabricated concrete walls. Between each concrete element there is a gap of about 10-30mm that was filled with mineral wool (out to a Platon mat on the outside of the wall) - we have removed this. As we are re-draining, we also need to seal all gaps. We checked with some sealing companies, and they say that foam sealant would work
Elvis69: There's no reason, but if you want to secure it before you screw on the drywall, you can always secure it with a staple gun. Once you've screwed on the drywall, the plastic isn't going anywhere.
pirk: My suggestion is that you install visible beams on the ground floor.
Dr_Jerkyll: Flat side is the long side in my world. That is, the long side of the rectangle that results if you cut the piece of wood.
anra: know that bauhaus sells h+h multiblock (www.hplush.se)
twtwtw: I'm installing ceiling panels on the attic sloped ceiling. What should I use as a strip or something else where the ceiling panels meet at an angle up in the ridge? Then I'm drywalling around the skylight. Where the drywall meets the ceiling panel. There will be ceiling panels around the window with a strip running around. How wide should the strip be for it to look nice? The sides of the window
stenas: Hi! I'm in the process of renovating my bathroom and have a few questions. The bathroom is on the ground floor with a basement underneath. The basement has a vaulted ceiling. The bathroom floor has been chipped out, leaving the vault. I was thinking of doing it like this: I'll put a construction plastic on the wall up to where I'll pour the floor (to protect the wooden wall), then lay 100 mm
Mats: the rules can be found at boverket and at skatteverket.
templar: A thousand thanks for the great answers and links!! I will go with my simple option. The major renovation will probably do the whole house good, but it will have to wait until money and the mood align. Thanks again! Simon
magnusss: Assume it's an interior wall. Use a stud finder or you'll simply have to remove the gypsum locally where you plan to put the blocks to see what's behind. How did you plan to attach the blocks? Are you going to build a frame first? Isn't there room for a smaller standard window
kimpo: Approximately 90 cm from the floor is a pretty good height. It depends on how the handrail looks. But try to hold the rail where you want it with the brackets on, mark on the first bracket, up or down, and measure 90 cm from the floor/stairs. Secure the first bracket, then you have a fixed point to start from when you fasten/mark the other brackets. (Gosh, there were a lot of F's in that
kimpo: It's all good... use galvanized nails and it'll be great.. /kimpo
anaitis: Semi-hard fiberboard. (Masonite is considered a hard fiberboard)
anaitis: It's load-bearing! It seems to carry loads from both part of the roof and the overlying floor structure.