Building Materials and Construction Technology
Dr Fozz: Think twice about that 38-degree roof pitch. It steals a lot of space compared to a mansard roof and is not that much cheaper. For example, look here to see how much difference there is between the roof types: http://www.minhembio.com/speedomac/45353/
MicroMacro: foam into the gaps? (tape the rafters so they don't get foam stuck there). Let the foam cure, then cut with, for example, a utility knife that you lay "against" the ceiling so you cut flush. Then maybe wall filler or wood filler into the pores of the foam. At least you get it tight, and maybe it can look better than the gaps themselves. I have irregular rafters across the house myself (and the
MicroMacro: Ugh, it seems really difficult with butt jointing... unfortunately, I have to try this carving method soon at home... I've used the miter saw at home before, but now a wardrobe needs to go up in the existing room and then new swan neck moldings have to be butt jointed (carved) against the old ones... dreading this :/. But very good tips you all have given me here. Thanks!
spamb: I wouldn't think so. Climb up into the attic and check how the rafters are. Also, see in the kitchen if the ceiling is continuous over the road.
Dzollero: 8 Screws into the OSB and through the stud you should screw.
eestere: I have used fine concrete and repaired a large hole (40cm x 20cm) in a 9cm thick concrete wall. The wall is now to be plastered and I wonder if I have to wait several weeks for the repair to dry or can I plaster over the repair already now?
Shahrokh: Hello, I am going to renovate a townhouse that is 94 sqm. Here is a list of everything that needs to be done. What do you think about labor costs? 1- Tear down the plastic roof, old kitchen, 4 sqm gypsum wall, remove old doors and carpet hooks from the entire floor, deliver waste to ÅVC. 2- Level the ceiling with 45x45mm cc45, install ceiling gypsum 90x2400, plaster, sand, and paint. Ceiling
Ullis-husägaren: Thanks for the help... I have another question. Is there any reason one would choose silicate paint over lime paint when painting in the basement?
Jonas 74: I agree. But unfortunately, that's the case... The bathroom is an extension to the rest of the house. The bathroom stands on four piers (one in each corner) and has the dimensions 270 x 180 (cm). I was planning to tile the floor and two of the walls. Thanks for getting involved. Jonas
sixten88: Would definitely make my own roof trusses considering the span is small and it becomes much cheaper,
jetjaguar: Planning to lower the ceiling by 10-12cm. Only one wall is made of lightweight concrete. About 2.5m.
lobbin: Anyone know whether plastic is needed or not? According to the drawing, the wall is concrete on the inside and façade brick on the outside. The inside is then sparsely plastered/puttied and then wallpapered.
Donwoody: with the plaster, the frame becomes more stable as mentioned, foil is cheaper and quicker to work with
daniel_se: Do you have any tips on a stylish color to paint a chimney breast? I have a white-painted chimney breast that doesn't contrast nicely with my white walls. I would prefer the brick color (unpainted) but it's too much work to remove the paint. Could I paint it in some kind of brick or rust color, do you think? //Daniel
Farzan: There is unclassified 12 mm construction plywood that is often somewhat cheaper than OSB (at least at Bauhaus and K-Rauta when I've looked). It tends to have some surface blemishes, but that doesn't matter when it's going behind drywall.
stakka: If I understand correctly, no wind barrier or similar is needed when building with västkustskiva. Right or wrong?
valle-07: Had the same problem in the kitchen in a prefab house from '63, ended up tearing everything out and reframing. When the masonite or glue in the elements starts to give way, the entire structure loses its strength. (the glue in my elements came loose just with a little poke) I didn't think it was worth trying to reinforce an originally poor construction.
sinoni: We are going to make a square arch, approximately 2.5 x 3.5 meters, in a 20 cm thick concrete wall. The wall is load-bearing, so we need to support it with a beam. Has anyone done this? How much did it cost? Any tips?
Lilljonte: Check out ByggMax. I don't think you’ll see any difference compared to what they have for 99.75 :-/m2. I'm currently installing such a ceiling and can say that it turns out very well.
jarnstedt: I have a small question regarding this issue.. I am planning to open up a hole of size 160x100 cm in a 70 mm thick lightweight concrete wall between the kitchen and the living room.. I'm mostly a bit curious about lightweight concrete.. I know for sure that it contains some sort of vertical thin reinforcement with about 20 cm spacing, and it is definitely non-load-bearing.. I will clad the
nimhed: I have occasionally seen old handrails at the municipalities' recycling depots.
jarnstedt: I have a small question regarding this topic.. the thing is, I'm planning to open a hole of the size 160x100 cm in a 70 mm thick lightweight concrete wall between the kitchen and living room.. I'm mostly wondering about the lightweight concrete.. I know for sure that it contains some sort of standing thin reinforcement with about 20 cm spacing, and that it is definitely non-load bearing.. I will
seliass: Hello, Personally, I only have positive experiences with Miras products. I've poured two bathrooms, a laundry room, and a basement corridor with their self-leveling compound, and positive qualities include having quite a long time to get everything "right" before it hardens. Good luck with your work :-) /Sören
anaitis: What type of glue do you use? Is it possible that the glue contains water?
anaitis: [citat] Surely I am being a nitpicker in this case, but you probably mean a krysskolvning?
anaitis: Certainly a very solid construction. Though they are playing a bit with words: They write that the walls are "massive" while a little further down on the page they describe that they have "milled grooves" inside the wall! They are absolutely right that the construction becomes thermally inert. But not as inert as a stone house. Now, I have not scrutinized their calculations, but I am a bit
404: Anyone know how the material prices are in Estonia compared to Sweden? I'm primarily thinking about timber, windows, and doors.