Building Materials and Construction Technology
Roar: Built a garage last year, and it has stood uninsulated over the winter, so I have been thinking of insulating it now in the spring. What I'm wondering now is how to approach insulating it. We haven't planned to heat the part where the car will be, at least not initially. What I've read is that you shouldn't have a vapor barrier between the boards and the insulation in such cases, but you can put
andersmc: We can say that in this case, beauty definitely lies in the eye of the beholder.
Filip L: Sketched an idea that popped into my head, I cut out a city skyline with high-rise buildings in chipboard and paint it black... and attach it to the outer edge... It would be the same principle as in the post above, just that I hide ugly seams with this. Then I can put LED strips from Clas Olhsson behind it... to emphasize the silhouette feel... and maybe drill tiny holes in the buildings so it
ByggaNytt: If you have no idea, a konstruktör should be called, but the principle is to distribute the load onto the remaining studs with a beam/support, like: http://www.familjenlindstrom.se/images/byggahus/stomme/vagg.jpg
daniel_se: Brought a crowbar to the walls today, and it's actually not brick, even though it has been in pretty much all the other walls in the apartment. It's lightweight concrete with some kind of black concrete/filler in the middle, no idea what this could be? Probably just going to have to knock it down to avoid some of the dust at least, how should I get neat endings? Can you use a circular saw to make
mycke_nu: In Sweden, I don't know, bought mine at Home Depot in the USA a few years ago when the dollar was a bit cheaper.
Sippan7: Yes, it seems that will have to be the method of nailing on additional sparse paneling, then I can choose if I have the energy to fill 80 sqm of plasterboard and save about 5000:- or opt for something like Byggmax ceiling which is ready after installation. /Micke
perostella: I am also in the process of building on piers. I wish more people would contribute to the debate. My house has a basement, and I re-drained it two years ago. I was thinking of perhaps digging and pouring a slab/wall and then building up to level with lecablocks, but... it's a lot of work. Piers would work fine, I think. But it's so difficult to find someone who can provide clear guidelines on
torrum: Hello, I'm about to attach tongue and groove to the ceiling. It will be attached to a grid of 70*30 cc60. Above the grid is plastic and above that, joists cc60 across the grid. What nails/screws should I use so that it doesn't pierce the plastic? Would short ones at 45 mm work? They seem as thin as wire, such nails. I don't trust them to hold up my ceiling. What is preferred, nails/screws in the
Bnicke: Need to apply filler to a concrete slab outdoors before I can start erecting the frame for an extension. It should be warmer than +5, which it isn't quite in Stockholm yet. We poured the concrete slab in subzero temperatures without any issues. But what about floor filler? Can frost protection or similar be added to floor filler? The products I find, such as Maxit frost protection, are intended
AnneFi: We are now almost finished with our basement and it's time to spruce up the stairs down. My partner wants to lay tiles while I think the stairs look great as they are, except for all the chips the previous owner made to install tiles. Is there any way to tidy them up? Can't you grind and polish them? [bild] [bild]
pslilleman: What you can do is buy a metal strip that comes on a roll, it is 10 cm wide and the roll is long, so you can probably cut off the length that you need for your wall. Tear away the outer layer, screw the metal strip onto the studs that you will be able to see on the first layer, you should have two lengths, one for the upper and lower cabinets, just find out what height they should be at. If there
RobZombie: [citat] Buy anchoring adhesive and fill in the large old holes and insert new plugs before the adhesive cures. It will hold like a rock.
Elvis69: You can solve the corners, for example, here. Now, the pictures show constructions with steel studs, but it works similarly with wood. Since it seems like you are going to partition a room for children, I would definitely fill the wall with insulation, at least 45 mm. Also remember to seal properly between the new wall and adjoining building parts.
blackadder: or mechanical workshop. If you are going to drill or weld brackets, it might be better to buy untreated pipes and finish everything before galvanizing the whole lot.
Okuma: That's how I've done it in the storage part of the carport, there is a way out. But I thought there was a more high-tech solution.
morty81: anaitis [citat] I don't think so since the roof should be attached to the exterior walls and the metal bands are too weak for that purpose! pinebar [citat] No, that too falls away, too little space underneath, about 20 mm. And the person who lived there before and let the garage wasn't the type to use it (the space in the beam itself) for that. What I'm considering is if it could be a leftover
Knaster: Was perhaps a bit unclear... Untreated panels were the idea, to then paint "together" with the ceiling moldings. NetNut: Will check out your tips, thanks!!
Dzollero: make the air gap 45mm, by attaching a 2x2 you will have an air gap and a stud to fasten the masonite with roofing nails. Best regards, Alex
Thomas59: I have shelves for garden tools in the bike shed. ELFA tracks with shelf brackets and regular shelf boards that I bought at K-Rauta. The cheapest kind. They rest loosely on the shelf brackets and are completely untreated. Some shelves have bent slightly (weak u-shape), maybe 5 mm. Painted/oiled or treated in another way and screwed in, they probably wouldn't be significantly affected by moisture.
blåhaken: All old walls and ceilings are plastered on boards. So it shouldn't be a problem. Just use plaster mesh.
Immobil: It's not mandatory, but of course, it doesn't hurt either. :rolleyes:
grävaren: The mortar is too stiff if you can't pull the trowel through it. The mortar is too loose if it spreads out when you pull the trowel through it. With the right consistency, anyone can do masonry.
evasch: Thinking like Totte...hehe, no it was magnusss :) We are considering selling and thinking of doing some moderate sanding and painting white.
v-g: Maybe a brick tongs? Otherwise, the diamond blade works well too.