Building Materials and Construction Technology
Servicesnickarn: Get in touch with an inspector/constructor depending on what they say, then I would contact the seller of the house. It doesn't sound good at all.
gadu^: well... there is Hornbach and Bauhaus which I know have these in different forms. Go to the tiles section and ask them. Don't know how it is with Silvan, Beijer Bygg, Byggmax etc...
anaitis: [citat] Possibly, but if so, not 22 mm thick, always thicker. Usually, it wasn't tongue and groove boards but timber planed on all sides. A common thickness in the past was 32 mm; later, sometimes it was changed to 28 mm. But always with tongue and groove.
Tiger79: Donwoody Thanks. Then it will be an Ikea cutting board and a regular board. Haven't noticed any moisture from the slab, so this will be durable. Regards
HJFF1969: As the title says, has anyone glued oil-tempered hardboard and if so, with what glue?
malmborg: Does anyone have a solution to our problem? We have installed a panel ceiling in a vaulted bay that now needs to meet a panel ceiling in a vaulted roof. See the attached picture. How can we make this look nice? 1 Put up one at a time, draw and then take it down and saw? 2 Put it up and use a router with a bearing bit 3 Cut a bit short and find a plastic/rubber trim that can be painted to cover
Immobil: Since it is a straight staircase, you can place a small quarter round on the stringer.
Jocce81: Don't know if this is the right section of the forum, but I'll take a chance anyway! I have a glazed balcony and I'm thinking of installing a ceiling to eliminate some of the "raw" feeling, as well as to embed a "starry sky" (available at Claes Ohlsson for a reasonable price as I've seen). However, I'm wondering how to go about it and what materials to use? I'm thinking of installing supports and
Andreas S: Ok thanks, I hope you understood what is meant. That this is the upper floor with a sloping ceiling and that it is insulated outside the paper visible in the picture. There will be an air gap between the paper and the plastic with 22mm sparse paneling (as in the picture) and the ceiling directly against the plastic. (this is done for no particular reason, just for simplicity.)
anaitis: [citat] It is perfectly fine to paint it once it has dried. It is often dripping wet when you bring it home.
anaitis: [citat] How about the upper end? Is it free or guided? Fixed? Wood? The slenderness ratio, if I calculate with a free top and fixed base in the ground (this is rarely the case though), becomes 2.25 * 200 / (15/4) = 120 This slenderness ratio gives a correction factor of about 0.28 Then the design-bearing capacity will be 0.28 * pi*150*150/4 * 11 (K12, SK1) which is approximately 54 kN
AndersS: And then you can cross-measure, i.e. both diagonals are equally long, and mark the corners on the floor to make the room square with, for example, tape. But that assumes the walls are equally long. But I agree with the earlier note that sometimes during renovation, you have to start with what is practical.
anra: Thank you... then I'll probably skip fixing them... they are very small!!
MrElliott: Yep, believe in the same thing. In older houses, the "middle" wall and others are often over-dimensioned, so you can almost see what is load-bearing and what is not. As someone pointed out above, you must speak with the association in any case.
Lilljonte: I have built an extension of 80 m2 with 1.5 floors and did not use a single nail except for the rough sheathing on the roof, which I nailed with a nail gun. I am very pleased with this solution. Sure, it was a bit more expensive and took a little longer, but I am, as I said, very satisfied with the result.
cikada: Yep, I also thank you here for all the advice and answers. see concluding text at: http://www.byggahus.se/forum/juridik...gd-platta.html
Elvis69: If you can't get hold of insulation, you can always complement the wall with one or more layers of gypsum (if there is space). This can make quite a big difference if the wall itself is uninsulated.
Elvis69: I agree with btgarb above. The primary thing is not to screw the sides first and then the middle. There is always a small risk that the boards are slightly bent, and to minimize the risk, you should screw from the middle outwards, alternatively from one side to the other. The screw length should be the board + about 20 mm for wood studs and + about 10 mm for steel.
Laxåplattan: Thanks for the answer and yep, it will be a cabin.
magnusss: [citat] We did the same on an old ceiling as cracks kept appearing. It turned out great (no cracks so far). If I were to lay new, I would do just as ElisArell.
magnusss: Snow poles probably fit well. Check with these companies http://www.vv.se/ http://www.mypaper.se/show/text.asp?pid=345120293637159&page=121 http://www.berlex.se/ http://www.ata.se/
Valbobygge: You can find Brandén's panel board here: http://www.panelskivan.se/ You can find the retailers through their website or email them, they respond quite quickly.
K_K: Hello! I've started to become interested in a house that is partially built with lightweight concrete. What are the disadvantages (and possible advantages) of this material? One disadvantage is obviously the risk of blåbetong, but that can be checked. From the house listing: * 1-story with a basement level * Built in 1965 * Foundation: Concrete slab * Foundation wall: Concrete * Frame:
Grop: Interesting: That something should be (as I read in the text above) means that it is not a must in my world. Though I am not a lawyer...
snickarboden: Check with Logosol. http://www.logosol.se /Kent
geggen: Thank you for the response. Well, maybe it was a silly question, but you know how it is sometimes with price reductions. They always exaggerate what products used to cost. Probably going to get one of those. Thanks