Building Materials and Construction Technology
Bloink: Impossible to answer without conditions and parameters. Contact a designer for an accurate calculation of the strength.
yens: I am going to build a staircase to my upper floor and am trying to figure out the headroom. I have about 2.50 ceiling height on the ground floor and in the middle of the upper floor it will be about 2.30. There's no problem with the headroom there, but the problem is at the outer part of the "curve" in the L-staircase. The red part on the image is what I mean. I don't have exact details on how
Jan-Å: I did the same and since we were going to paint, I kept the "skitvirket" and sanded off glue and linoleum residues. I got a reason to buy a new solid sander, but with that and 40-grit paper, it was less work than cutting pine/parquet/laminate which were the alternatives. Our staircase looked like yours in the picture and turned out very nice with gray paint, we think :) So if you change your mind
Forrest: Okay, it looks like I'll skip the plastic and lay råspont as the floor instead. Thanks for the input.
andersmc: Yes, a row of screws in the middle as well. If the board breaks at the edge, you can put a new screw nearby, where it's still intact. If you're going to plaster the ceiling completely smooth, the damage will disappear under the plaster.
Pixelmir: One aspect might be a thermal bridge and even more seriously water intrusion into the studs? Got another tip to drill only in the facade but attach with anchor adhesive, plug, and then screw to secure the entrance roof. Maybe it's a better option, especially if it's tricky to hit the studs while wanting a certain symmetry on the roof. /M
eestere: [citat] What is the reason for single-phase and not double-phase? Indeed, I mean 22*95 vs 22*120. Our wall is 4.6*2.7m, without windows and doors. I was looking around a bit yesterday. Several newly built houses had 22*95 vertically and 22*120 horizontally. The vertical was double-phase but the horizontal (I don't remember exactly (though it was yesterday)) but I think also double-phase. The
Bloink: It is very possible that the insulation above the ceiling is meant to soundproof from/to the neighbor. Have you noticed any difference after you tore down the insulation? And back to the question, plaster in the holes, spread the ceiling with putty, then install microlit to prevent cracking and finally painting.
zankan: double frames. 3-glass inner windows then an 8 mm laminated glass works... If you want it to be able to open... Otherwise, you install a 3-glass on the inside and a 3-glass on the facade level...
Kalle B: It would be an option if the råspont were in better condition. But being frugal, I bought the cheap 17mm råspont from byggmax. Most of their range is completely okay, but this particular one is not good. They know it themselves too, so I got a good discount, which is why I chose it. Then the roof is a bit skewed, and it gets a bit awkward around the beams, which is why I want to cover
Himbla: Hello, how did it go for you? I'm a bit curious to see how you did, as I'm on the verge of starting a similar project. Best regards, JW
Gabbe1: Thank you for your response. I have now confirmed that it is Puhos P6 boards that BM is selling in Skövde, and they are still not approved for joining outside of the studs.
HusByggarTomten: Door and handle at any hardware store. Alarm system I'm not sure about though. Ask at the hardware store, it can most likely be ordered there as well.
pjop: Thank you Watchmen, do you also know the cost of concrete per cubic meter? Preferably a quick-drying one suitable for underfloor heating. P
Mikael_L: Mineral wool is a name for stone wool ;), glass wool is another insulation material in the MU category. You'll probably get the best soundproofing with the heaviest MU boards. That is, (super expensive) west coast boards (among other names) provide the most soundproofing. Cheaper and better with double plasterboard + the cheapest 45mm MU roll from byggmax. I think, anyway ... :o
Loner: Oh no, that's what I was afraid of. But it's just a matter of getting started now that the value has finally improved. /L
titanium: PL glue is an incredibly good adhesive, but in this case when you're going to glue onto what I can see as glossy tiles, I would probably use silicone glue instead. It adheres better to slippery surfaces and is also reasonably easy to remove if you want to. Clean the tiles with acetone or thinner if you want to be extra meticulous. T-röd also works reasonably well. The fact that it won't hold is
ama3282: We expanded our house with 2 extensions. We extended the house by 4.5 meters (slab 30m2, 2 floors + basement) and a forward extension of 12 m2, 2 floors. We received a quote for: - Frame - Exterior cladding with panel - Interior cladding with plasterboard - Tile on the roof price: 400 tKr Building the new part went quickly. What took time was renovating the old part. We demolished 3 load-bearing
Forrest: Now, two days later, the roof trusses are manufactured and in place, had to make a wedge that I got a tip about and attach it to the stop on the saw. It was a bit of a hassle before the wedge had the right shape, but then it went smoothly. What would one be without the Byggahus forum...;)
abel48: Ok thanks for all the answers... I was planning to use it now in the summer. I'm going to have them out on a patio. But it might be a risk to paint if they're not completely dry. But how much does a moisture meter cost? Best regards, Anders
JDandanell: I was thinking of checking with those of you who know What options do I have? I am attaching a picture of the room. The walls are painted (plastic paint) but apart from an old flooding in a stormwater pipe, there don't seem to be any moisture problems. We've lived in the house for 6 years and the whole area is known to be well-drained (lots of sand). I think my options are between: plastering the
timmpo: At 6000:-, you don't need to buy a blade for longer. I remember we had blades we called Rolls-Royce blades that cost around 2000. When you rent a concrete saw, buy your own 300mm blade for 800 - 1500:- (300mm) if you search a bit. With that blade, you'll reach 9-10 cm deep (you can chip away the last cm with a sledgehammer). Sometimes it can be difficult to find a blade with the correct center
imported_Byggaren: [citat] This is actually OT for this forum but ok: The registration depends on what type of company you are starting. The types of associations vary from Sole proprietorship to General partnership, Limited partnership, and AB. The first one only requires a simple notification to the Swedish Tax Agency, who can also provide you with an F-tax card and VAT registration. Other forms require
estwing: use gips then apply microlit on it, NEVER cracks regards carpenter estwing
anaitis: [citat] Seal you must, but with sealant - all openings must be completely sealed. Mineral wool does no harm, but you get a better effect if you spend the money on gypsum!
gadu^: Another thought I have about this is to achieve good sound insulation between the floors. If one were to put drywall on the inside of the sparse panel and then drywall on the sparse panel. Meaning that you put up some spars and insert a 600mm wide drywall sheet that rests on the spars, and finally the drywall as usual when you've put up the remaining sparse. Would this help with the sound between
oskis 123: Why trust us more than them in the store? You haven't met any of us... ;) Husfix works well! It seems to be fairly small irregularities.