Building Materials and Construction Technology
sajohhal: Hello, I've acquired Uponor evalPEX 12mm to be laid in tracks and then covered with self-leveling compound to eventually place tiles on top. I have an electric Push12 to replace an old flat radiator in the kitchen, which is 15 sqm. I've just removed the black-and-white checkered linoleum floor. I also removed a rather thin masonite board (4-5 mm) and some form of paperboard. What remains as the
dosken: It is mainly that it is not until about 220 cm out that it feels reasonably smooth to lay concrete slabs/Leca blocks, due to uneven rock and other things under the future decking. But if you were to do an overhang, it is not a problem that the outer support beam does not have any support from underneath in that case?
yxet: checked a bit today, there are cheap ready-made doors available. Has anyone here modified standard doors? I'm somewhat interested in how one goes about cutting them and putting them back together again.
racer: I renovated my crawl space measuring 4 by 4 meters. The original floor joists were 150mm high and it wasn't possible to install larger ones. I glued together two 45/145 beams for each joist, with centers 60 cm apart, and added two rows of nogging in between. On top, I laid chipboard flooring which was glued and screwed to the joists. The result was beyond expectations! The floor is solid :D So if
Humulus: There is no blue concrete that does not emit radon gas... TS: If it really is blue lightweight concrete in the foundation and you are still tearing out such large parts, there is reason to remove all material that is made of blue lightweight concrete. The question is whether there are other reasons that suggest a completely new foundation...?
henrikrosen: The room is 1630 wide so I thought about cutting both panels a little so there will be a seam in the middle. The edge against the wall is not that crucial because new panels will be put on the walls and then tiles. I thought I would replace the ceiling before the mason and carpenter start their work.
talibanpappa: Hello! We have extended a part of the house and now we need help with calculating a hipped ridge beam. I was thinking of using double Kertobalks 45x360, the free span for the beam is 6m and the roof angle is 21° in snow zone 2. Does anyone have any ideas? http://www.hebygg.se/Valmning.jpg
bruschen: In most cases, expansion mortar is only "shrink-free," meaning it does not exert any pressure on your pipes. Read the packaging. Do you really need to pour in concrete then? Can't you use foam sealant or something similar to seal it? How big is the hole and where is it located?
bruschen: Probably kemankare as mentioned. Are you going to set up a new awning? If so, it's probably a good idea to get something similar to use then.
bruschen: Seems a bit flimsy, I think. I don't have any programs on the computer I'm using now, so I can't check more thoroughly. Think of it this way: You're going to have quite a bit of stuff permanently lying up there in a humid environment. The wood will "creep," as it's called in technical terms, quite a bit, and you'll end up with a banana-shaped underside on the joists. The flimsier the joists, the
petersk: There is no doubt that all the walls you want to remove are load-bearing. Whether 18 hours is a lot or a little is probably a question of what you would be getting. For just dimensions, it's a lot, but if it were complete drawings with descriptions of execution, it's reasonable. The calculation itself takes maybe a few hours, but the drawings take some time.
hydromatics: if you have glesen "Stående" then you should have the plasterboards standing, otherwise there's a risk you miss every other screw :)
morty81: Have converted my garage into a workshop and would like to dampen the noise level a bit! The walls are where they are and I don't want to put up more plaster, air gaps, etc... So what can be done on the outside of the walls to make it a bit quieter? Preferably no fabric since there will be a lot of dust circulating. So bring some smart suggestions!
andersmc: There is no point in having wind paper between gypsum and raw wood. It's just an extra work step. The purpose of wind paper is to be windproof and to keep water splashes away from the insulation. However, it is not diffusion-tight, so it doesn't keep the moist air out. Gypsum itself is completely windproof, and you can't have any water splashes between gypsum and raw wood. So the wind paper has
Wodie: maybe a little help ?? http://dinbyggare.com/artiklar/artikel.asp?docid=102
fatman: Hi I need some help to see if it would be possible to replace the floor joists in our house. Currently, there is a joist made of spruce? (The house was built in 1930, extension 1940). The length is at most 4.7 meters and CC is 60 cm. To gain a little ceiling height in the basement (about 10 cm), we would like to "raise" the sill the joists are sitting on and replace it with a thinner beam. My
Bonan: Looks very good. Neat and fresh. Well done.
Immobil: Then you should focus on retightening the steps. Remove the cover caps and tighten the screws properly.
titanium: If you have 60 cm over 4.5 m, it results in a slope of 7.6 degrees, and that is suitable for a felt roof without any problem. With welded/glued seams, the best felt can handle down to 3 degrees, so you are well above that threshold. Your neighbor's slope is 1.5 degrees and is considered very difficult to install yourself and achieve a tight seal. I have no experience with rubber sheeting, but
Mats: I don't understand why you wouldn't be able to set 10-15 cm high foundations and cast the post bases in them?
Forrest: Noted after a conversation with Byggmax that the floor system's frame is untreated pine... I won't insulate this garden shed anyway but the advice here is to place a sill with pressure-treated wood at the bottom against my masonry blocks. And then between the pressure-treated beam and the masonry block, use a sill gasket. Or is this unnecessary and just a waste of money on a garden shed.
prövasjälv: It's incredibly difficult to find information about laundry room walls made of masonite. We are going to freshen up the laundry room, which was built and wallpapered in 1974! It's masonite. After we tore off the "beautiful" red-flowered 70s wet room wallpaper, we found very well-preserved masonite boards behind. Now we have to choose wall covering. What does anyone know about this 1. Is it
verktygsgurun: Ok....thanks for the answer. I understand that option 2 is best in terms of load-bearing, but option is better aesthetically, so I think it will probably be option 2. Anyone else with another viewpoint??
Jamba88: Thank you for your answers. I started the day before yesterday and was going to cut down the 145 studs. Unfortunately, I only had a crappy circular saw at hand, on which the fence suddenly came loose, resulting in an awfully crooked cut :( So one of the pairs of legs went down the drain and I might as well redo the other one too. Oh well, all in all, it means buying some more timber. When I