Building Materials and Construction Technology
Mikael_L: In a well-stocked professional store, you should be able to find a wide range of adhesives, Uppsala Maskin & verktyg, for example, has several types and can order the entire range of Loctite, from super runny to very thick variants. So call one of your nearby professional stores and check.
Range: We are in the process of framing a wall with steel studs in the basement. At the ceiling level in the room, there is a ventilation hole through the wall. What should I do with it now? Should I install a 100 mm pipe that ends flush with the drywall? Previously, there hasn't been a pipe in place. And what should I do with the steel track at the ceiling? Should it be bent aside?
snuttjulle: Pouring 10cm in a channel where it probably wasn't more than 5cm before just feels silly. With this, I mean to say that check how thick what you've chipped away is, and if it's only 2-3 cm, then 4 cm over the channel will surely suffice.
santos: Aquapanel doesn't breathe, does it? If the wall doesn't breathe and becomes damp, it can lead to mold and a bad odor.
O.M: Thank you for the answers! I would prefer not to have posts in the garage, but I understand the span is quite long. I saw on moelven.se that according to their calculations, a glulam beam 56x270 cc600 would suffice. What size might be needed if using a steel beam instead?
titanium: How do you install insect netting/metal mesh most efficiently at the bottom of the wooden facade's ventilation with horizontal paneling? I have seen that it is stapled to the battens that form the ventilation before attaching the facade boards. That's how I've done it before, but I've also seen that metal mesh is nailed on afterward. Are there more variations? What is the smartest method?
Range: It was good that there were so many options... Now I just have to choose! I guess it depends a bit on where the element is supposed to be in relation to the studs...
HusByggarTomten: Alternatively, use unpainted moldings and fill gaps with filler, then paint.
mandg: I had clad the walls with renovation plasterboard instead of renovation wallpaper, then filled and sanded. Regarding the partition wall, I had put chipboard & then plasterboard.
mandg: depends on how much, you can always fill with grovspackel...if you want i.e.
Lindgrenski: Unfortunately, we don't have a room where we can place the staircase, except for the hallway. However, we have been considering remodeling the kitchen, so it's not impossible that we might end up taking a bit from the kitchen to make room for the staircase.
Fjordlund: Ok. Thanks for the answers. The chimney is out. The next step is to instead place a point on the roof. How about buying a cleat, mooring ring, or something similar and securing it with a long bolt that goes through the metal roof and through the roof truss? That should be sturdy enough, right? It feels a bit scary to make it watertight, but shouldn't you be able to use the farmer screw principle,
Danne031: The only way to be completely sure you're using the right one is to bring a piece of chipped plaster and ask someone who knows. Then swing by where you see masons working, for example, and see if you can bump into someone who looks experienced. You might even get lucky with salespeople at the stores as well, some are very knowledgeable and former craftsmen.
Druvan: Thank you for your responses! Fire safety is an aspect to consider since there are 4 meters between the garage and the house.
vespaman: Is it a concrete balcony, with a room underneath? Old tiles that have frozen and broken over the years? I don't believe in corrugated metal, but as anaitis describes, many old houses do. I am currently renovating my balcony, which doesn't have a room underneath, but since water seeps through the balcony, it causes frost damage and trouble underneath. I have chipped away the old tiles, and the
injonil: Areas that are difficult to paint afterwards, such as the upper part of the gable, you can certainly pre-paint before the paneling is nailed up. Use gloves when installing the pre-painted paneling.
Richie_Evd: Ikea sells repair laminate for some of its countertops. At least they used to....
Richie_Evd: Am not a builder but those windows felt really nice. Cheat glue and keep.
storkarp: Depends largely on what measurements we are talking about. I also have the same age and inclination. I have understood that the support legs reduce the stresses but also where you place the high legs.
alve: Hello, I am looking for a spiral staircase that I can load on the central pole, which should be available quite commonly, one would think. But does anyone know a good place in the Stockholm area where I can go and look at staircases? I would, for example, like to "test walk" a staircase with a 60cm step width. Grateful for any answers. Best regards, Martin
Basungalning: Hello I have a house that was built in the late 50s. In the middle of the house, there's a large red-brick open fireplace. Now we are going to install an insert and spruce it up. Unfortunately, its shape is not what is desired today, and we would like to make it more modern and straight in its forms. Which building and fastening materials are best suited for this job? I am thinking about avoiding
Forrest: Hello, I am planning to build a storage shed with dimensions 2.7*5.1m and I am wondering what you think about the floor framework. I have the idea to build a frame using pressure-treated 45*120 with crossbeams in between at 60 cm centers. Regarding the width of 2.7m, the question is whether I need an extra support beam in the middle, also on foundation blocks, to avoid floor sagging. Or is my
pjop: Isn't that why you should use a rubber-like glue? It should allow movement in the wood, right? P
TonyTheTiger: I need some advice and tips when I'm building a loft bed for a 120cm wide bed for my 5-year-old son. I'm sending a few incredibly artistic pictures ;) so it's easier to see :D http://i705.photobucket.com/albums/ww53/kilen65/Sng2.jpg http://i705.photobucket.com/albums/ww53/kilen65/Sng.jpg I was thinking of mounting it on the wall and then building a frame with 45x45mm beams (about 30cc between
anaitis: Of course there is, just can't remember off the top of my head. Check Träinfo www.trainformation.se where you can probably find something about this.
Dr.SiC: Get decent drawings of what you want to do and bring in a structural engineer to assess whether the foundation and walls can handle the additional load. That is probably the single most challenging part. It is a relatively small cost in the grand scheme to reinforce the foundation and walls. Designing the additional structure is easier, if you can't do it yourself, the carpenter can probably do
mandg: I had set regular 13 mm plasterboard.....it's always nice with straight walls!!
petersson79: It should, and you can also choose whether you want the smooth or rough side facing out...