Building Materials and Construction Technology
aggen: is the middle for aesthetic reasons or for the load.
aggen: I am going to build 7.70x6.53 with a building height of 3.50. I want to optimize the upper floor as space. I have considered building with a glulam beam at the ridge as the support beam. Is there a cheaper construction option if I want to utilize the ceiling height?
grungarn: I am going to expand the garage in a barn. So we are thinking of moving a wall. What size should the studs be and what center spacing should we have? And if I suspect it's a load-bearing wall, is it enough if I put up some 10x10 studs at the same distance as the previous ones? It will be moved about one meter.
Peter2400: Here you can see the type of screw that fits. http://www.grabber.se/site.aspx?id=548
Kalleman: The knots need to withstand significantly greater forces than that. The force that the knots need to handle depends primarily on (assuming the weight in the hammock is constant) the angle between the horizontal plane and the lowest point of the hammock when lying in it. Example: If the hammock hangs so that the line between the bottom and the attachment point is 10 degrees, the resulting force on
Korp-Johan: Thank you robowich! I will always call it a stämkniv from now on!:D
Korp-Johan: [citat] Exactly right! Don't screw. 50 mm brad nails. Never anything else! Wood is smallest when it's driest. If you have heating, it's in the winter. Prime or stain before you put it up, then you don't have to worry. Good to nail in the summer to avoid tension. Doesn't matter if it shrinks as long as it's the same color. Cheers! Johan
andersmc: If most of the time it is warmer inside the building than outside, you should have diffusion-tight plastic on the warm side. This is to prevent warm air with higher relative humidity from creeping into the relatively cold insulation and causing condensation there.
niblom: The question is not about understanding the fault, when it comes to hidden defects. It's about whether you can detect it, suspect that something is not right, and conduct an extended inspection or determine if it's normal "wear and tear" due to the house's age. Since there was suspected moisture, you should have conducted an extended inspection and verified exactly what needs to be replaced, etc.
Mats: It becomes a thermal bridge, but I also think it's the best solution in a case like this. The only reasonable alternative I can think of is to embed something in the wall that can be attached to.
Korp-Johan: Hi Forrest! Some common ways to panel the shorter sides with gable peaks; 1. Use long boards all the way up. 2. Break off where you say, even with the nailing batten. Either with a flashing that goes under the upper panel and over the lower one, or set a nice "waist" (a horizontal board, either completely smooth or nicely planed) and place flashing both above and below this. If I understand you
andersmc: If the cabin is just 2.7 meters wide, you can build rafters out of almost anything. For comparison, the rafters in my carport are built from 145x45 on 2.4 and 3-meter centers, respectively. It is 5.4 meters wide and has stood for five years now without visible deformation of the roof.
gluecifer: Is it enough to prime once on the floor gypsum in the hallway for tiles? It's really just supposed to bind dust, right? So - done, it became two layers. Close the thread.
Blomman16: Hello! I'm currently working on my summer project, which is to build a pellet storage. I currently order 16 kg small bags that I carry, but now I'm planning to build a bulk storage that the supplier can fill directly from the truck. I plan to place it in the basement under the garage where there is concrete on the floor and ceiling and plastered block walls. I will be moving the pellets between
akhagen: I think I've managed to get around Lindab's wholesaler antics ;-) Lucky that I'm so insanely nice on the phone...
The Tor: If it's a wooden wall and it just needs to be removed, I can't imagine it taking more than an hour. However, if thresholds, moldings, painting, sealing, electrical work, etc. are also needed, it might take a few more hours.
sissela: Hi! I am planning to build a loft bed in the closet of my rental apartment, using an IKEA mattress (2x1.40) with a slatted base that just needs to be "elevated," so to speak. I'm thinking of using 4 logs purchased from Bauhaus as legs, attaching two battens (4cm) to two of the walls, which are concrete (I think, what is the difference between that and cement?), and affixing the mattress to them,
cheetah1: One tip might be to have a small wedge under the frame on the hinge side, so that you have the opportunity to adjust the other side if the floor has a slight slope (which they tend to have especially in old houses, if someone happens to have one of those..). Right, snickar estwing?
Gabbe1: 120x45 (C14) c-c 60cm is according to the wood guide okay for a 7.5m wide two-story house with self-supporting trusses and a heavy roof in snow zone 2.5. Considering that, it should be risk-free to set them c-c 120cm on a woodshed with a 4m span.
renovation girl: hi, we bought a "molly setter" at Bauhaus and it worked well!
Pysslarn: I would have a blacksmith's workshop make new ones for me. It doesn't have to be particularly expensive. Good luck /Ronnie
Watchmen: There was a mistake there. They market themselves as the cheapest. tired. If you buy everything there for a new house or deck, etc., at Byggmax, it can't be cheaper according to themselves. But maybe it's just me who thinks they are expensive :) You don't have to buy so much. To get the prices down. Just talk to them. For timber and cell plastic, Woody keeps lower prices from the start. s80 cell
Joukko: Plexiglass is really expensive. Is there any cheaper alternative?
anwi: Hello A few years ago, we renovated the upper floor and also extended it a bit. We used particleboard for the interior walls, and especially when it gets a bit warmer outside, there's a pungent smell that comes and goes. I suspect the boards are releasing formaldehyde. Can the stench be remedied, or is it just a matter of starting to tear them down? :( Could there be other reasons for the odor?
templar: I have made a foundation of self-leveling compound for my new toilet. The reason is that the floor was incredibly uneven, sloping in several directions where the toilet would stand. The edge of the foundation ended up being between 2 mm to 10 mm high. I have a shower next to the toilet, and water will splash around it. I am wondering if the self-leveling compound can withstand being moistened
Västerhaninge 17: Why not shift support to the rafters' lower arms or a load-bearing interior wall. The heavy post on the right side can be moved to the right (which also needs to be shifted above).
Koorina: Hello Visit komfortmiljogolv.se One of many solutions.