Building Materials and Construction Technology
verktygsgurun: And don't forget to fix your wet råspont. Do it now and don't wait.....
twtwtw: I have a slanted ceiling where I plan to use the last slope as a wardrobe. Question 1 I'm considering using a fabric on a curtain track that can be moved back and forth. I'm looking for a curtain track or profile where the track is recessed, meaning you can't see the groove where the curtain runs. Instead, it is built-in. Where can such tracks be found? Question 2 Storage in a slanted ceiling.
LaraM: Thanks for the response, _bystrom_ =) The reason I will (partly) use two different thicknesses is that I will straighten the walls "a little" at the same time... I was a bit unclear in the sentence there (also...) Best regards, LaraM - finally on the move =) Tomorrow, some old lockläkt will be removed, as well as a check of additional syll
nattugglan11: 2 years ago, Coop had lots of great fine oak moldings/decorative moldings, very neat and fine, no molding was larger than 10x10mm in profile. They were available on a shelf separately lying in "tubes" Does anyone know who sells these now? I would like to have such to use as tile moldings, the tile moldings I have otherwise seen are very few variants and not as neat as I wish. (I live in the
Anders Abel: One trick is to screw on the nut first before tapping down the bolt. If the threading gets slightly damaged when hitting the bolt, it will be fixed when unscrewing the nut, as it restores the threads (the same method is practical to use when cutting off a bolt and wanting to fix the threads at the cut end).
eldhead: I have now thought through the construction. I plan to build with Besta blocks on the existing uninsulated concrete roof. I have decided to insulate the underside of the roof with a perimeter around it to avoid thermal bridging. A new question arises, should I completely omit insulation on the top side or should I insulate with e.g. 90 mm between the floor joists?
Blomman16: Hello! I am in the process of building a pellet storage where the oil tank used to be. I will remove the old pipes and seal it, then create a new opening 1 meter from the pipes so that the hole will be in the middle of the storage. But I am wondering which type of Plaster & Mortar I should use. When I checked Byggmax's website, I saw that there was a combined Plaster & Mortar. There was one type
v-g: Unfortunately, I don't know enough, you seem to have puts as well and I know even less about that. Hope you get better answers from other combatants ;)
gadu^: Hehe, this will be fun... Will get back with more questions...
JonasGBG: I have the impression that cyanoacrylate glue loses strength and becomes brittle at high temperatures. There is likely a risk that the bond can break if exposed to high temp.
Krawk: You must lead the water out somewhere as well. It will probably be difficult to make it watertight. Plastic on the outside of the insulation also stops the moisture from inside, which will then condense there. But that's not a problem as long as it's summer-warm in the attic... Probably better to try to repair the roof temporarily with metal / plastic / tar paper / soft sealant or something else
Korp-Johan: Hello Fridhem! I would like to recommend gypsum plaster. (Natural gypsum) I have just installed a cast iron stove in the kitchen, and after working with mortar B, for foundation and repairing cracks and joints, it is a godsend relief to work with this material. Mortar B is not easy to work with! You can't apply particularly thick layers, and after it has set, it is almost impossible to work with.
Andreas A: Now have the right gravel and crushed stone at home, there might be no shortcuts if you want the best results.
vespaman: Background: The balcony on my functionalist house is under repair, as it was leaking like a sieve and the plaster on the underside, as well as smaller concrete parts here and there, break away every winter. Originally it looked like this: Tiles (many cracked) Setting concrete, or some sandier type of concrete, about 4-5 cm Asphalt Concrete slab The plan was to use a more modern waterproofing
gadeberg: And it's probably hard to wallpaper? :) Particle board can be wallpapered directly, right? I have masonite in almost the entire house. Thought it was a common and simple thing to do.
ZeroX66: Good question. It depends on the winter, but maybe 30-60cm. The ones I recently drove down for the fence were about 40-50cm, and I had a tough time getting them down, so I dug a bit, and first there was 20cm of topsoil, then it became clay, stone, and gravel. Like concrete! I don't really think it will move sideways, but what about the weight? At the cabin, I poured concrete for a shed of 8m2,
lenny: I have bricked up a window to be able to install a garage door in a house made of leca. The frame for the door will be attached through the leca, both through the old and the new that I have bricked up in the old window. I have used mortar B and 19x19x59 blocks. The joints are about 1 cm. How long does the mortar need to cure, or rather, when can I start drilling and working the new section
FredrikR: I placed angle irons where the chairs are supposed to be, this to speed up erection/lifting when the tractor was here. Attached them to each other at the support legs with sparse paneling that I had lying around. When the sheathing was in place, I removed all the 'supports'. I started from the inside, mostly so the tractor could 'work its way out/back' and had measured the width of the framework
tompa_70: In Stockholm, there is a company: http://www.pondussnickeri.se/. They align, plane, and provide you with the dimensions and lengths you want.
Dust: Hello! There is quite a difference in bending resistance between HE 180 A and HE 200 B. HE 200 B has essentially double the bending resistance of the HE 180 A beam. Then there will be a lot of welding if you are going to add 2 webs to the beam. Also, it is the flange that should resist the bending, the web should just keep the flange in the right place. Is there a beam that needs to be inspected?
yens: I will build a dormer where the rafters consist of glulam, however, the walls are made of framing timber. I find it very hard to imagine that K12 wouldn't be sufficient in my construction, but I want to ask anyway. If I understand correctly, K24 is primarily meant for rafters and joists with large spans. I am attaching a small sketch of how my dormer will be constructed. What do you think, will
trojlee: I think it can be saved even if a new construction would be preferable. You can drill holes and insert expansion plugs halfway where you're going to mortar in the "kakorna" and also prime the contact surface, that way you get a kind of reinforcement. Then it will stay in place... but it's a bit of a fiddly job. But it doesn't have to cost a lot of money. Then maybe a little plinth paint or
Krawk: Snow may indeed weigh a lot, but it rarely hops around. As others have said: Insert beams at half the distance, and you'll have no problem getting a stable floor. The outer wall will probably be fine as it is, but you should check that. It might be a bit tricky to get a waterproof roof that can withstand walking on, scraping with chairs, etc., but you can probably solve that. The reason I