Hello,
I am going to manufacture a series of roof trusses and am wondering how I should go about mitering my tie beam.
I want a roof pitch of 22 degrees and the ridge angle is not a problem as I miter off 22 degrees from the 90 that the lumber naturally has.
That leaves an angle of 68 degrees, and as we all know the sum of angles in a triangle is 180 degrees.
So I have 90 between the tie beam and ridge, 68 degrees at the ridge.
But how should I miter the remaining 22 degrees at each end of my tie beam when the max miter angle on my Bosch GCM8S is 60 degrees to the right and 50 to the left?
Thanks for the input and explanation on how to go about this...
I am going to manufacture a series of roof trusses and am wondering how I should go about mitering my tie beam.
I want a roof pitch of 22 degrees and the ridge angle is not a problem as I miter off 22 degrees from the 90 that the lumber naturally has.
That leaves an angle of 68 degrees, and as we all know the sum of angles in a triangle is 180 degrees.
So I have 90 between the tie beam and ridge, 68 degrees at the ridge.
But how should I miter the remaining 22 degrees at each end of my tie beam when the max miter angle on my Bosch GCM8S is 60 degrees to the right and 50 to the left?
Thanks for the input and explanation on how to go about this...
I have tested 3 methods to do it with power tools, 1 with a miter saw and 2 with a hand circular saw.
With the miter saw, I placed the rule I was going to saw perpendicular to the saw table. A clamped block on the saw table to guide the rule to the right position and a similar one on the support at the back.
This method worked the worst, but in any case, I mitered the ends of 9 pieces of the trusses' underframes.
The other two methods I tested both involved sawing with the hand circular saw along the edge of a board.
Simply put, you can describe it like this:
Draw a line exactly where the saw line should be on a rule.
Draw a new line parallel, exactly as far as it is between the blade and the edge of the saw's base plate.
Place a piece of board material (plywood, hardboard, etc., I used a laminate floor piece) on line #2.
Draw along the underside of the board material along the rule.
Screw some small battens in suitable places to guide the board to the correct place.
Saw with the help of the template.
I think I have some pictures of my experiments; I'll see if I can find them. Then I can post a bit more here.
With the miter saw, I placed the rule I was going to saw perpendicular to the saw table. A clamped block on the saw table to guide the rule to the right position and a similar one on the support at the back.
This method worked the worst, but in any case, I mitered the ends of 9 pieces of the trusses' underframes.
The other two methods I tested both involved sawing with the hand circular saw along the edge of a board.
Simply put, you can describe it like this:
Draw a line exactly where the saw line should be on a rule.
Draw a new line parallel, exactly as far as it is between the blade and the edge of the saw's base plate.
Place a piece of board material (plywood, hardboard, etc., I used a laminate floor piece) on line #2.
Draw along the underside of the board material along the rule.
Screw some small battens in suitable places to guide the board to the correct place.
Saw with the help of the template.
I think I have some pictures of my experiments; I'll see if I can find them. Then I can post a bit more here.
Now, two days later, the roof trusses are manufactured and in place, had to make a wedge that I got a tip about and attach it to the stop on the saw. It was a bit of a hassle before the wedge had the right shape, but then it went smoothly. What would one be without the Byggahus forum...