Building Materials and Construction Technology
Tauro: My autumn project has become our upstairs hallway. The walls have a thin plywood board at the bottom, about 1.5 meters up the wall, and then they have put paper up to the ceiling. My question is whether I need to tear down the paper, which is wallpapered, or if it's enough to remove the plywood board and then screw up plasterboards. Question 2 is whether I need to put tar paper or something
Krawk: Yes, with respect to the load across the fibers, that is the length required. However, the specified bearing length is the absolute minimum dimension required. In reality, such a beam is always placed on the entire post considering load eccentricity, fastenings, and to have some extra safety in the back pocket.
Bergqvistskovde: How is it going with the fogars ?? if I use the fog residue remover, have white fogars
John J: I think it looks like the house is situated quite high, which is always good considering moisture and high groundwater, etc. But try to check under the house to ensure it isn't damp and doesn't smell like mold. The only thing I noticed was that the electricity consumption was quite high considering the house had 2 air heat pumps and the possibility for wood burning, but it isn't extreme in any
Gladh: Many people probably install an OSB/Chipboard/Råspont behind the drywall to make it easier to attach things to the wall, and if you do that, you can nail your moldings into this board.
Krawk: The glulam is affected in the same way as the rest of the floor structure. That is, you need to take the same considerations as for, for example, the sill. Sill insulation underneath etc.
injonil: You must ask for permission if it is a significant change and you can read about this in this thread.
Boingo: Why complicate things? No need to find the right studs. Works perfectly fine to screw into the panel. No need for monster screws either. Just needs to hold so the fence doesn't blow over. Best regards, Byggarebo
alacs: As for the heat, it's irrelevant, as I will do the work before I move in. Load-bearing wall - no, I haven't checked. If it's load-bearing, I'll have to support it with a beam, and that step needs to be included, of course. Thank you.
Mats: We start with the soil. Soil is a living material because decomposition of old plant parts, etc. is ongoing. Therefore, you should/must remove it before making a slab, otherwise you risk it sinking over time. Once you have a good base, you may need to fill it in a bit depending on how deep you dug. Samkross is good for this (I am not clear on the exact sizes and it varies a little depending on
Johan Gunverth: [citat] There is usually a hole at one end where you can insert a screwdriver to tension the spring. At the same time, there is also a locking pin that attaches to the movable end.
Pysslarn: [citat] That was cheap. Byggmax charges 389 kr for formplywood 12 x 1200 x 2500. Since I have some casting projects in the pipeline, I'm curious where you get it at that price. Best regards, Ronnie
Ved?: I have a garage foundation built with three layers of gråsuggor, and I plan to raise the wall with two layers of lightweight concrete blocks 19x19x59. Do I need to reinforce these two layers?
Micke H: Hello, add some shavings and paint with egg oil tempera. We painted our board wall with a light yellow. Use a larger brush, e.g., a façade brush, to make it look nice. // Micke
hen_rik79: Okay, thanks! If I don't do better, a little latex sealant will have to do. It might also be good if water is spilled on the windowsill down there... a risk when you have flower pots there and are watering. /henrik
Vallasteffo: Can one instead of offsetting with a joist on edge under the collar beam, complement with a standing joist on the other side of the window so that cc becomes 60 or is it the pressure on the collar beam that is critical? It would indeed use less wood with offsetting. Suggestions on dimensions in that case? Is 45*170 at the outer edge sufficient? (Småland, cement tile, 27 degrees, trusses cc 120)
Peter_K: Looking for someone selling concrete foundation blocks in the Stockholm area, preferably on the south side. I only need 12 to place a small shed on, so if anyone has any used ones, I would be happy to come and pick them up :)
jstack: Hello! I'm looking for perforated steel profiles, something similar to these: http://img196.imageshack.us/img196/9996/profildw.gif Who sells them? It should be basically like a large meccano.. /JS
Bonae: Hmm, some sort of block still - maybe. However, I don't think I have seen any such lättbegongblock in reality. The crucial thing is really how troublesome it is to make a reasonably sized opening in the bricked-up door - without damaging the bathroom wall on the other side... Well, I guess there's really nothing else to do than to tear off a good bit of plaster and take a look. Loosely joined
KalleR: Hello! I'm trying to find out if the interior walls of my apartment are load-bearing or if I can start tearing them down. The drawing shows a floor above the apartment. At the lines I've marked, there are walls about 11cm thick. Above the apartment, there is a furnished attic without walls that correspond to the lines in the drawing. The only construction above is roof trusses running parallel to
Mats: Biltema's double-sided body tape sticks like nothing else, so I can almost recommend it ;) It just sticks a little too well sometimes
Garderob: [citat] Approval from the board has been obtained, but without details about the installation itself. A clarification, please: do you believe in cosmetic damage if the mounts were to come loose, or the theoretical possibility of the entire balcony "cracking"?
Micke parkettläggare nr 1: Gluing of boards, planks, or beams. Any of these can be glued if desired. Personally, I wouldn’t glue a beam to concrete, even if there are adhesives up to 85% RH. If you get damage or the parquet lifts due to swelling, for example, it will be difficult to repair. The best thing you can do is use expansion screws to anchor a plywood or 2 layers floating. That way, you get a much better floor,
(Inte Alltid)Glad Ammatör: Ok, thanks, now I know! Thought I'd make it easy for myself. :D
Satsuki: alacs - We didn't lift a finger ourselves; we outsourced the entire job. We only replaced the outer wall sills, and this was done from the outside because we didn't want a lot of cut walls indoors. The construction of our house was such that two pressure-treated boards lay on/half-recessed in the slab, forming the sill. Since we have brick walls at the bottom, the craftsmen sawed away the two
Delphoria: Have seen walls with black wind barrier behind - really nice! Otherwise, you can use tongue and groove boards, like smooth tongue and groove, or wider pine floorboards. They can usually be found as second sorting reasonably cheaply. Then you don't need anything behind.
AndersS: Building everything outdoors with pressure-treated wood. I'm tired of all the rotten wood and the endless painting to protect it. The oldest we now have is a 20-year-old fence in pressure-treated and unpainted once, where it doesn't matter with a little peeling paint or cracks in the paint, and still no tendency to be rotten.