I have not installed windows where I have used steel studs, but I think you need to combine them with wooden studs. Steel is not much to screw into.
How do you install windows where you have steel studs? Steel studs are usually used in interior walls, and windows in exterior walls.
How do you install windows where you have steel studs? Steel studs are usually used in interior walls, and windows in exterior walls.
When I switched from wooden studs to steel studs in my basement (away with organic), I had a number of windows. My solution, which I got from my contractor, was to build 'short pieces' around the windows (which are in the lecawall) with the steel studs.
That is, on the left and right side of the window, a steel stud was placed. It was placed 45mm 'too much' to the right/left of the window. Additional steel studs were cut, about 30cm longer than the opening between the vertical steel studs. About 15cm from each side, these were cut down on the side (NOTE! do not remove anything) and bent to form a U (with a very long base).
This was fitted into the opening and 'slid' over the vertical steel studs. Here too, it was placed 45mm too low/high in relation to the window.
Then I placed 45x70mm wooden studs in the opening to have something to screw the window jamb to.
Hope you understand what I mean and that this is what you are looking for.
That is, on the left and right side of the window, a steel stud was placed. It was placed 45mm 'too much' to the right/left of the window. Additional steel studs were cut, about 30cm longer than the opening between the vertical steel studs. About 15cm from each side, these were cut down on the side (NOTE! do not remove anything) and bent to form a U (with a very long base).
This was fitted into the opening and 'slid' over the vertical steel studs. Here too, it was placed 45mm too low/high in relation to the window.
Then I placed 45x70mm wooden studs in the opening to have something to screw the window jamb to.
Hope you understand what I mean and that this is what you are looking for.
Upon a bit of searching, I found the following. It's not the best image quality in the world, but oh well 
As you can see in the first image, I have the vertical (standing) steel studs, which are on either side of the windows (2 in my case). These are the red lines.
Then I have the horizontal studs, marked in blue. As you can see, part of the stud continues down/up on the vertical one, that's the part I've 'slid' onto the standing stud.
It's even clearer in the second image, where I've marked in blue where I cut to then bend the stud.
Hope it's now apparent how I've done it.
As you can see in the first image, I have the vertical (standing) steel studs, which are on either side of the windows (2 in my case). These are the red lines.
Then I have the horizontal studs, marked in blue. As you can see, part of the stud continues down/up on the vertical one, that's the part I've 'slid' onto the standing stud.
It's even clearer in the second image, where I've marked in blue where I cut to then bend the stud.
Hope it's now apparent how I've done it.
Yep.robban said:
That's correct too. In this case, between the lecawall and the steel studs, I also have an air gap of 45mm (I kept the old wooden stud in the 'ceiling'). The track on top is therefore attached to the old wooden stud, and the track at the bottom is screwed into the concrete (after aligning it vertically with the one above).robban said:
Will it be stable?
I am placing my studs a few cm outside the lecawall, and that's where I thought it might get a little unstable, by the window.
But with your method, it should work when you've bent down the sheet metal and secured it to the stud that goes all the way up to the ceiling track?
Is the wooden stud necessary? What trim material do you have?
I am placing my studs a few cm outside the lecawall, and that's where I thought it might get a little unstable, by the window.
But with your method, it should work when you've bent down the sheet metal and secured it to the stud that goes all the way up to the ceiling track?
Is the wooden stud necessary? What trim material do you have?
Yep, it will probably be more stable that way! I might screw some "för smyg" to level with the window and then MDF on that! So it might work without the wood rule then!
Did you just attach the smyg to the wood? Or did you plug it and set it in the lecat as well?
Did you just attach the smyg to the wood? Or did you plug it and set it in the lecat as well?
No, you misunderstand me. I placed a plywood sheet in front of the Leca. Considering we had made an opening for the window, the cuts weren't exactly straight and neat, so we had to prop it up to make it level. Thank goodness for Masonite
Once it was level, 4" nails were driven through into the Leca behind. When the reveal was to be installed, it was screwed partly into the plywood (closest to the window) and also into the wooden beam that lay on top of the steel 'kortling' (closest to the room).
Once it was level, 4" nails were driven through into the Leca behind. When the reveal was to be installed, it was screwed partly into the plywood (closest to the window) and also into the wooden beam that lay on top of the steel 'kortling' (closest to the room).
