Building Materials and Construction Technology
Mats: I think there is also 17X95, a bit too weak for a deck but there is plenty of support under here, so if you want to save some money and get a thinner look, maybe it could be something.
yens: I think it sounds like an idea, putty/sand/putty/sand and then paint, if it turns out to be less durable than hoped, one can reconsider later. Thanks for the input.
Tossegubbe: Moeälven has something called bilad panel that I usually use for similar purposes, a bit fiddly but looks nice afterwards :)
Krawk: [citat] Replacing it directly won't work since the support seems to run in the other direction. Keeping the support hidden should be possible though, as mentioned. For example with steel beams. Whether such a solution works with the current building system, only they would know. (Reach out to a structural engineer at the company and they can probably give you a clear answer.)
bengan24: I will nail double tongue and groove in the eaves of my house. The groove is 22 * 190, but the question is what nails should I use? Finishing nails type 50mm or regular wire nails of about the same size with my nail gun. I would prefer the nails to be invisible. Check out the pictures to see what I mean. Best regards, Mganus [bild] [bild]
corner: I roughly understand what you mean. I will have trussed rafters on the gables, i.e., where the beams go left-right on the "drawing" and where the beams go "up-down" I was thinking of having a scissor truss, as we were planning to have a vaulted ceiling in the middle part of the house. Do scissor trusses create vertical forces on load-bearing interior walls?
b8q: Considering that half of Southern Europe has houses where the structure, including the fireplace and chimney, is made of local limestone, I find it hard to imagine that it would NOT be possible to solve...
pär h: Hello, the father in the family business has been here and he said I could get about 100lpm of 21*95 which is first-class as he put it as a band-aid on the wound if I could accept the deviation on the other timber. But I declined the offer and said that either I pay for what I have already used and they take back everything else or they plane it all down. He will get back to me. Best regards,
KalleR: Based on what you find when you google slag stone, I don't think that's it, but I'm not sure. I'm attaching images so maybe it's easier. I was thinking of heading to the city planning office to research further into the matter. What do you think? These are pictures of the other wall that the previous owner took down.
Bror: Skip the plastic if it is to remain unheated, otherwise, you can use all types of insulation, mineralutt, ekofiber, etc.
Jan-Å: [citat] No, the slab in our house seems to have been poured in two stages, first a layer on the ground then a layer of coarse gravel (I'm not good with the categorization of gravel and such, but large stones up to 7-8 cm), so where the drainage wouldn't be, I "only":p chipped away the upper layer. However, the drainage pipes are basically on macadam with EPS around and over. The upper layer was
Slacker32: ...bla concave molding. Check for local retailer; http://www.gapro.se/aterforsaljare.html
jeppeknaster: http://www.byggahus.se/forum/byggmaterial-byggteknik/40386-att-gjuta-en-baenkskiva-i-betong-bilder-fragor.html
ByggaNytt: Well, to be entirely sure (as usual) a constructor should calculate this, but I have a longest wall of 4.5 m, reinforced in every row (every other would have sufficed according to the constructor, but since you're at it...). I also used 290 mm solid stone below ground level. http://www.familjenlindstrom.se/images/byggahus/murning/
JanneSjo: are there clips or similar options for concealed mounting? I need to attach a 4.3m x 20cm x 16mm MDF board as a cornice 1m up and I want it to stay in place, of course - normally no other weight than its own weight. is there a good way to attach it?
FredrikFiskare: Actually, it doesn't matter what you choose. The downside of pressure-treated wood is that it can't be painted directly and it absorbs water. Moisture thus travels in the posts, so it's not ideal to use regular wood in direct contact with pressure-treated wood. There's a risk of mold in other words (not in the treated wood but in the regular one)! Personally, I've only used laminated and planed
FredrikFiskare: Ventilation is not something you typically neglect. You should have ventilation between each truss bay as well as gable peak ventilation. I installed so-called "mögelstopper" instead of completely open ventilation between the trusses. But that hardly makes any difference for fire safety.
Micke2006: Hi, I would like to create an opening in a load-bearing brick wall (about 40cm deep, floor 6/8) to install a new interior wall in a multi-family building (BRF). I know this requires permission from the association, a building notification including construction drawings/calculations, etc., but I have a problem: The house plans (I have checked all of them at the city planning expedition) indicate
Nygge72: Hello, I am going to cast a post on already existing concrete slabs (smooth). There are 4 rebars coming up from the slabs that will go through the entire post. My question is whether a primer will be needed to get the new concrete to adhere to the old one? Where can I get this primer if needed? (The post will be under a summer house that stands by the water, so moisture is a factor.) I would need
Savanna: [citat] But how the heck do you build up from the concrete surface? I have no desire to dig out all the sawdust (20cm deep) if I absolutely don't have to. :) The largest area is 120*50cm that needs to be re-done. A while ago, I uncovered one of the floor joists not too far in, thinking I would attach the new joist to it. The joist on the wall is already there from before. We need to "repair" the
Swappe: If you are just cutting one block - handsaw. If you are cutting many - reciprocating saw with the right blade. I have, with 2 blades, cut loads of blocks for our stable construction of about 100sqm. =)
v-g: If you don't screw into the pipes, it works well without the extra pipe. There is, for example, a pencil which can be used to mark where the pipes go. I believe a PEX pipe never breaks unless it was improperly installed from the start.
Beppo: How big is it and how many sheets are we talking about? Are the seams filled or are the screws visible? If the seams aren't filled, it's easy to take it down and put up new ones, and it doesn't cost much either. When you say you don't want to do partial work, I assume it's not that big, so the cost is likely modest. Buuuut. If you then spend the time washing the whole thing, which doesn't take
anaitis: It's almost the same thing - mursand is slightly coarser, which means that slightly less binder is required for the same strength.
Hobbe1979: I'm answering myself a bit with a picture I found. I've been recommended to apply low-expansion construction foam after the door is adjusted. Is foam and trim plates along with possibly plaster enough?
Immobil: The only thing we have is mortar directly against the window frame. Then there are nails driven into the frame on each side at every joint vertically.
Savanna: We will use metal tracks + wooden studs in the hall since it's not adjacent to any exterior walls and we haven't had any moisture problems there. In the other rooms, it will be metal tracks + metal studs with spacers (haven't yet figured out what to use as spacers) to allow air to circulate behind so it doesn't become completely sealed. Then, there will be regular gypsum boards on the walls.