Building Materials and Construction Technology
klaskarlsson: [citat] My cover panel is only nailed to one panel - that is, not two nails next to each other - Maybe because of this? /K
v-g: One quickly becomes aware if OSB moves or not, just like when laying a click floor flush against the wall ;) Everything depends on the indoor environment; some have very stable humidity throughout the year, others do not. Wood is a living material; gypsum is not. My uncle has, like many others, particle board in the kitchen (behind cabinets, etc.) it is tiled directly on this, and it has been
HusByggarTomten: I would screw plywood behind the wall you've decided for the TV. OSB is okay, but in some cases, you don't get a really good grip on the screw with OSB.
Pimme: You can find Pigment at capton.se or grace something they specialize in pigmented concrete, there you'll also find different treatment options. question? isn't it possible to cast the entire wall in one piece with the pigmented concrete, where in the mold you make the finished casting's outside look like block stones. (what a solution, should be patented, hahaha) Maybe it can save some time
bonkeman: Ok, thanks! I thought so. The house I looked at today was crap, but I got stuck on the conversation about siporex and that it wouldn't have existed then. The only requirement I have when looking for a house now is that it should accommodate a two-child family and not have blåbetong.
ArneTW: The lecakulorna seem to hold together. I previously slammed and today I applied plaster on the outside, it looks good. Conclusion: It is not cheaper than building with lecablock but if it’s a smaller and irregular area that needs to be filled, I think place-cast lecakulor is an alternative. /ATW
para: I laid the floorboard first because it was the fastest. However, I had to be extra careful to cover the construction when it rained, as the particle board is a bit more sensitive to rain than just a frame structure. If you place the frame directly on the beam, you should probably cross-support between the floor joists so the particle board is supported underneath on all sides.
Preke: Eventually, we found a panel board that we think can replace the old sacrificial board well. It has a "flärp" at the top that goes under the panel and covers the sill well. Additionally, the part under the vertical panel is automatically "beveled," as that's how the panel is designed. This panel board is a bit thinner, but that's probably a good thing since the water runs off it instead of
Judas: Thread lift! Anyone know where to get windows to install in exterior doors?? I know they exist for interior doors but have never seen anything for exterior doors.. I've searched online but haven't found anything. Tips on retailers are greatly appreciated!!
Robban66: Any comments on my picture of the ridge beam? The outer standing beam (the reason I'm using two is because the existing studs are too short, so instead of splicing, I'm adding another beam there), should it be placed as far in as possible (as drawn in the picture) or should I place it to the outer edge? What should I do with the empty space? Is 45x195 unnecessarily heavy? I have some leftover
ih624: you should drive in the järnkilar which you then cut flush with the beam. then you weld the kilarna so that they cannot move
Mikael_L: Wooden house with wooden beams on piers. If soil conditions allow it. My guess would be about 1200-2000:-/sqm in material cost for a simple house on piers. I'm thinking of the cheapest, most basic materials everywhere, like the cheapest concrete tiles and cheap click flooring, etc. Also, somewhat poorly insulated. No heating and ventilation either. But a couple of electric radiators and a pax fan
Alpha: Considering whether to use panel clips + screws this time for the beadboard ceiling (14x95) instead of T1 brads (1.2x40) double nailing in the tongue + wood glue between the joist and panel, what do you think? It was really smooth to shoot with the nail gun when I installed the same panel in the bathroom, but in hindsight, one wonders if it will hold over the years... I've now framed at cc70
MEngström: I found a table online with dimensions for glulam beams at the ridge. It says I need a 90x405 for the expansion I plan to make, measuring 5x5 meters. Additionally, there will be collar beams on my construction, and a friend advised me to skip the glulam beam entirely and use roof rafters of 45x220 instead. Without having to calculate in detail, how does it seem based on experience with the
refuser: I had a similar experience in our condominium. I wanted to switch from particle board to plasterboard as cracks appeared in the joints with the particle board. So, I did. The construction of the walls was, to say the least, strange. The studs were almost completely cut through (all of them) and then a piece of stud was nailed on the side of the cut as if the decision had been changed (on all
laje: Buying your question, had the same thought myself. I think the beam should be able to take the load from the truss directly, but the argument was that more layers on top provide a more distributed load than a point load and would therefore be better. The beam is a properly reinforced 299cm single-piece beam. Do you mean that it can take point load directly, in that case, everything is fine.
andreasge: The realtor's information was exactly as I suspected, wrong. The house has a wooden frame.
calle336: A follow-up question on this popular topic ;) Do you think you need to treat the joints somehow so they don't absorb moisture and then freeze and break?? Or is this not necessary?
Jan-Å: I painted my garage panel when it was mounted, the neighbor folks grumbled because you're supposed to paint before mounting to avoid stripes, etc. I completely agree with cheetah1, it takes too long to fiddle like that, months compared to a week. Sure, it has shrunk a bit here and there but not worse than it could be painted on those boards in half an hour. What shrinks in the spring I'll spend
ktm250: Why not just buy the garage beam that has a clear raised edge? Then you avoid having to lay bricks or cast another layer. You can either cut the beams yourself or buy them pre-cut according to the plan.
magnus82: Planning to build a new house and of course, I want to have an open fireplace in the house. The purpose of the fireplace is that it should provide heat for a good while after the fire has stopped burning, so I have given up on those regular wood-burning stoves like Contura with sheet metal chimneys. I was thinking of either constructing my own chimney with bricks or buying ready-made chimney kits
Robban66: Between the gates there it probably serves a function, that it becomes stronger with one beam instead of two? But maybe it's easier to "splice" at both ends and place the stud on edge under the header instead of using the beam.
Marive: my opinion is that if you can't find exactly the same bricks, it's better to contrast with a different technique, otherwise it looks very much like an extension. But plastered with existing bricks can probably be very nice.
Pablo: Plaster is usually reinforced either with fiberglass or with paper strips. I don't think you need a protective mask, but it depends on what you are going to do with the plaster. Just cutting, breaking, and screwing can be done without a respirator.
MathiasS: [citat] I would recommend a simpler empirical method. Call two friends. Let them jump up and hang on the truss. If it looks stable, you also jump up and if it doesn't break, you know it works.... Theory is all well and good, but there are often simpler ways to come to a reasonable conclusion.
Immobil: The best and most enduring solution is to locate the studs in the wall and attach the fittings to them.
kuse: Hi, I'm planning to renovate the living room and thought about framing 45 around to have neat electrical/network/etc. installations. Two of the walls are on the exterior side of the house and there I thought about adding insulation boards, is there any risk in doing this, potential moisture problems etc.?
alen: The thing about stoves is different, it is often specified in the papers what distance to combustible material is recommended - it has to do with the outer temperature of the casing.
