Building Materials and Construction Technology
Krawk: If you have a load-bearing wall in the continuation of those you are going to demolish, you could use this as a support for a beam. That is, a beam between chimney wall-wall. However, both the chimney and the load-bearing wall need to be checked to ensure they can handle the load. (The support on the chimney must also be done in such a way that the chimney sweep approves it if it is in use.) The
JanneSjo: I'm going to install small fluorescent fixtures between the cornice board and the sliding door. I was thinking of screwing the fixture onto a 25x25 batten. It's a bit tight - 35 mm wide and about 65-75 mm in height. I'm considering a smart way to attach the batten so that it's easy to remove if the fluorescent needs to be replaced. Does anyone have a good idea? (screwing is an option, but I was
nimhed: [citat] That sounds very sturdy and good.
icem: It is always tricky to build interior walls against concrete walls, especially against basement walls. Concrete contains moisture, there is no getting away from it. The moisture must be able to migrate back and forth through the wall and be ventilated away on both sides. That is the basic rule. Since it involves a storage room and thus is not so sensitive to appearance, I would consider materials
andi_j: yes, it will probably involve using a concrete grinder, used one of those to grind off asphalt from a wall before.
Swappe: one course, i.e., stone + string in leca is 20cm.. i.e., 19cm block and 1cm joint. You should set the first course so high that you get it level in all directions with the mason's line. Mark the remaining courses on corner profiles at 20cm intervals and set the mason's line there as well. A tip is to rent a more expensive model of a rotary laser and level the corners from the start and when
JanneL: I have never built with metal studs, but I know that foam can be used in combination with them. Is it not possible that the board can be inserted into the stud? The stud is just a thin metal. Maybe it's a good idea to go up in size to 70 mm? I assume that foam insulates better than mineral wool, which might be needed when the wall is only built with 19 cm leca. In the ceiling, you need a vapor
benox: Yes, the idea of screwing it in from underneath was considered, but it felt wrong since the wall also needed to be painted and plastered. It will be glue and plugs.
mrVoodoo: YES, plaster plaster is easy to work with if you don't feel very handy with a trowel and proper mortar. Make sure to scrape away everything loose and bind dust with some adhesive/primer too to be on the safe side if it's very porous behind, I myself have developed a clear preference for Optiroc's adhesive.
linans: At the top of the chimney, it has cracked and the joints between the stones have come loose. What should I use to mortar with?
Ludor: After doing some research, I have found a reason to keep the construction plastic on the slab. Since I don't have a crawl space under the slab, the ground will always contain a higher moisture content regardless of whether there's a capillary-breaking layer, and this moisture seeks equilibrium and will therefore rise up through the slab and into the house. Sure, it's warmer in the house than in
Johan Gunverth: Same as for the walls. Around 30mm long. c/c 150mm. Yes, c/c 300mm is good for the ceiling.
FredrikoKarl: [citat] Can I demand compensation from the previous buyer? How does that work? I'll try the cling film test. See what happens. Fingers crossed it won't get wet. Getting nervous now :P.
mali: Hi Does anyone know where the turned posts used by hortlax hus were manufactured? There were 2 models, one for column function and one for the end of the entrance bridge, with a knob. They were made of laminated wood and dimension 145x145 Appreciate any tips. Mats
Marcus J: [citat] Sticking to hand saw and straight edge. I have a Milwaukee CS55 with a 165 mm blade. The standard blade has 24T + I have an 18T. What is considered a fine-toothed blade for this size?
Ludor: Probably works fine with a small skugglist. Just creates a slightly larger shadow :)
Jonajona: Does anyone know where to get hold of anchor bolts for embedding in lightweight aggregate concrete U-blocks? I was thinking of attaching the ledger to my garage construction with bolts to be able to skip the top plate completely. I know you can use all-thread rods, but then I thought there might be ready-made bolts available for purchase? But I haven't found any. Does anyone know???
injonil: It is common to let the boards stop a few mm above the slab, for example using masonite pieces as spacers. As you say, it is not good if the boards have contact with the slab.
balkens: Hello! I have bought a second-hand glazing and need to partially adjust the width and get it level against the roof and a shelf. I initially thought about pressure-treated timber, but it might be difficult to get building permits. What do you suggest besides aluminum profiles (expensive)?
Alpha: I have a similar dilemma on the upper floor in 2 rooms, don't feel like tackling it yet until the ground floor is finished.. :) But, well, it should be possible to piece together somehow with a LOT of patience and time.. Possibly, I've thought about using trim to avoid the ceiling angles, we'll see how that turns out. Otherwise, a tip is to take advantage of the rotavdrag (tax deduction for
mabcar: The person who runs Kärras byggnads AB I have used for many years in my job. He has good common sense for advice and can manage large projects. I recommend him in rain or shine. I work as a property manager and also live in Nacka. I have also hired Janrik and c/o a few times and they have also done a good job. However, their work has been a bit more expensive than Kärras.
Pär Hansson: Dig where you stand, it is said. Gävle Galvan apparently galvanizes for private individuals at 18.90 + VAT + about 7% = 25.30 SEK/kg raw weight. It was probably 20 years ago since I last checked.
Kiranos: Hi, we are currently laying tiles down the facade of our apartment. We are approaching the end and have noticed that the setting sand we are using today as the final layer before the tiles is very light when it dries. It doesn't really fit with the dark tiles according to us. Do you have any tips on a slightly darker setting sand that can be used as joint sand, or should we only use joint sand?
myrstack: No one with an idea? What I've figured out so far is that considering the floor above is constructed of H-beams resting with C/C 100cm on the wall (the beams extend perpendicular from the wall) that I want to affect, the weakening of the structure should be quite marginal if I make my cuts between two H-beams. The pressure from the floor above should remain the same, so the compressive strength
Johan Gunverth: Outdoor plaster can sometimes be the waxed type, and then nothing sticks to it except sticky outdoor sealant. It's just a matter of testing.
ppalm: there are special cardboard pieces you can bend there for the air gap
Korp-Johan: Buy a stylish strip in stainless steel or brass. Available at all hardware stores. Best regards, Johan
Korp-Johan: Common diluted base paint. With white spirit. Regards Johan
Korp-Johan: If I'm not entirely mistaken, the special tool you're missing is only meant to drive the punched wedges in the profile into the drywall. Attach the profile on one side with a screw, so it doesn't move, then take a screwdriver and tap the "pins" into the drywall on the other side. Do the same on the other side. Save 1000 kronor! Good luck! Johan
Åbacka: Can I mix mortar with stone dust (0-4)? I'm going to lay three courses of Leca blocks for a greenhouse.