Building Materials and Construction Technology
zingo: No, the barn is still standing... and it's leaning more than ever but is also more charming than ever. Within ten years it will be renovated! :)
DeEss: [citat] Yeah, oh dear - here I am with hundreds of fonts on my computer, and it's a standard font! Checked on WhatTheFont last night but not carefully enough evidently Thanks for the help! //Daniel
frav: Hello! I would gratefully welcome tips on manufacturers & also Swedish wholesalers/retailers. I have been recommended www.tegelmaster.se, which have quite a large selection. But I would happily see more options if available. I am in need of brown brick that is similar to this. [bild] [bild]
edvinf: Hello I was planning to tear down the siding, add studs, insulate between them, and install a new facade, but... the existing facade supports the inner bearer for the deck. How do you go about adding insulation to the wall when the inner bearer of the deck is in the way? When everything is done, the wall should be thicker outward and the deck should remain. The house is on piers, and so is the
xibeca: It is possible to break PVAC glue with, for example, tonex.
gaia: [citat] It seems that you don't have any radiator under this window, so it's probably a draft you're feeling. I hope cold air isn't blowing through the gaps ... gaia
chagenfeldt: Hello, I am facing the same issue as the original poster! I am currently building a garage with LECA blocks. I have a bit left before it's time to plaster it. Since I am considering trying to plaster it myself and don't know how long it will take, I am thinking about waiting until spring to do the plastering. Earlier in this thread, it was suggested to cover the masonry with a tarp over the
electro_elvis: Yes, it's a 1930s house. However, I found it very easy to drill into. But there might be different types of slaggplattor.
ivar40: Hello! We have a small cabin that has settled somewhat (the cabin is 10x5 m) and the foundation posts are a bit haphazard, though they are in all 4 corners and also under in some places. The floor is a bit unsteady and I’m considering putting 5 pieces of 95x95 beams underneath with about 2 meters in between (I think that should suffice) and then having an adjustable post (see picture) as I
rovad: [bild] Recently bought timber (even from two different companies) and on a few planks, I find small holes and tunnels. Is this nothing to worry about? Or, on the contrary, is it dangerous? Could the insects that caused this still be present and affect the rest and the finished building? What kind of insect made this?
microUlf: Hello! We are considering converting our extra kitchen (2nd floor) into a bathroom. In the kitchen, there is a door to an uninsulated space (pantry) with a window! The space is unheated and located under the attic stairs in our cold attic. Can we keep the door to this space when the kitchen is converted into a bathroom? We are worried that moist air from the bathroom will "leak" out to this cold
zankan: as previous speakers have said...not a bit...these tiles take care of the aftermath and absorb internal noise...
swecul: What connection details are you thinking about? The space that the staircase should lead down to hasn't been built yet, nor has the terrace that should be above it. The reason I'm bringing up the question is that I either have to build the terrace as it is to be able to finalize the building permit or revise it and draw in a room underneath with a connection to the main building (the staircase).
lajsiiwan: Another thing to consider is to mix thoroughly and for a long time, as it adheres much better.
FredrikFiskare: Why not put sheet metal instead? I have it in my garage, it actually turned out really nice and is MUCH faster to put up. Works well to install without spacing as well. But of course, the old gypsum must come down...
Krawk: http://www.byggahus.se/forum/isolering/50097-rymdisolering-scansulate-airflex.html It has an insulating function, but what they "forget" to mention is that it requires free air in front. The total thickness thus becomes the same or greater as for regular insulation if you want wallpaper indoors. In the right place, it is an excellent product, but hardly the miracle that sellers usually try to
LLLVäxjö: If it's this kind: http://www.maxit.se/moduler/pidpc/download/?file=17272&fn=datasheet%20FINBETONG%20K40 I would guess that there is some flow in it but I'm not sure at all. The concrete should have a VCT-max of around 0.45 and that's low and good and not so easy to achieve without flow. But I don't know, just guessing....
Marcus J: It depends on the type of screw you plan to use. Self-drilling chipboard screws from a good brand, such as Essve, work fine without pre-drilling. If you want to use torx bits instead of PH2, a countersunk universal screw, such as Essve 4.0x40 mm, works excellently. Feel free to try screwing into a scrap piece of MDF against a piece of timber before you "go live." Good luck!
PX-21: [citat] Go up to the chimney and inspect which flue it could be....Does it work to call into the channel? ;)...if not, lower a rope with a weight (If you have chimney sweep equipment, use it) Then do as you wish, even if you put a pax fan in the hole and expel the basement moisture. ;)
OHE: A little detour... does anyone have experience with gluing moisture-resistant gypsum board onto plastered walls? It seems that the gypsum's dimensional stability would make it more suitable than, for example, wedi boards of the same thickness. Sorry if I hijacked the thread ;)
nimhed: If you are going to nail on 45ors on the outside, you can place them perpendicular to the old wall studs. And then set them at cc60. Then screw your OSB horizontally instead and finally the plasterboard standing. The plasterboard doesn't need to be anchored in studs. Especially not if the OSB is screwed cc60.
Tiger79: Now the wall is torn down... In the floor, there is a groove about 5cm deep that needs to be filled with putty. The wall stood on the slab with a layer of asphalt paper and then mortar up to the correct floor level. Planning to put a metal rail on the floor, what is the best to use as putty and how to attach the rail?
Hobbe1979: Hey again! I just wanted to report back on the results of my attempts with hydrochloric acid. I diluted 1 part 30% hydrochloric acid with 9 parts water, i.e., 3% hydrochloric acid. It worked excellently but takes a bit of time. It works best if you remove as much mortar as possible with a wire wheel on the angle grinder first. I let the stones sit for about 10 hours, and then they were like new
MLI131: Hi! We bought a Nybro from Smålandsvillan. We didn't think their veranda was very nice, plus it was super expensive. So, I'm thinking of building my own and have some ideas. Has anyone done something similar before, how did you do it, what does it look like? Or does anyone have suggestions on how to do it? All suggestions are warmly welcomed :-) Emelie