Building Materials and Construction Technology
bengan6: Replace the current molding with a wider one. Or a trim board as someone suggested. Suggestions about caulking must be a bad joke, or maybe from one of today's craftsmen that you read a lot about on this forum. Dyckert ??- You probably can't nail a trim to the reveal if the gap is 8 mm.
Larsa: There is plastic wood/chemical wood that is a filler resembling wood (available in different shades). If you are going to paint, Plastic Padding (PP100) will probably suffice, it should hold. If you want to do it really bta, you rout out and glue in repair pieces...
PX-21: I did it so carefully and well, so let's say possibly in 70 years...;) If even then? Have flushing options both here and there... Shouldn't need to be redone...;) Regards
eestere: What is the paper that is under the chipboard in the attic? Where can I buy it? (Byggmax, K-Rauta, Coop...) I need it as I am going to insulate a small extension and do not want to change the concept.
P-plats: I removed my side window when the door was replaced. It got darker in the hallway, but I'm building a porch outside, and there wasn't room for the side window, I thought. For us, it wouldn't have been a problem to keep the old side window, but even if it looks okay, I would replace it since it's easier when you're already replacing the door. Some pictures from my door replacement can be found
tobbano: I have torn down a wall between two rooms where there is a significant difference in ceiling height of a few decimeters. I framed down a bit where the wall used to be and clad it like a box with OSB. The idea was now to cover this with suitable material and create a sense of a beam being there. For example, some wood-based panel material that can be glazed white or black-brown. But then the
Tokv41: Is it possible to sand the bottom of the formply with fine sandpaper to get it completely smooth, or do the scratches from the paper create friction so that the concrete doesn't release after curing? The bottom of the form has some small protruding pieces on the surface which will result in tiny tiny pits on the surface of the tabletop... These can be sanded away beforehand but the question is if
Tokv41: Discovered after making a mold that one side is somewhat finer than the other... Was it a coincidence or is there a front and a back side?
Danjell: Okay, that's good. Thank you for the help! I did as you described when I renovated the apartment before I moved in. I had a month to renovate the entire apartment before moving. Back then, I framed, drywalled, and taped up the hole. It turned out well. Now I have more time and thought to ask if it was the right way to do it. Lucky that it was right then :) Thanks!
Mikael_L: Just a small factual error ... :o [citat] Heat is transferred through radiation, conduction, or convection. (Or of course a combination) We have covered radiation; what you are referring to as convection here is conduction. Convection requires a moving medium, such as air or water that moves along the warm surface. So in concrete or metal, it can never be a matter of convection; it is almost 100%
AndersS: Wood as a material will move with the seasons, and this varies between different types of wood. It is least noticeable on lacquered or oiled surfaces where the aim is to highlight the wood surface from the beginning and where any cracks become part of the appearance. We have installed white-painted spruce paneling on the ceiling, but it was knot-sealed and pre-painted before installation.
psv79: Used an 8 mm trim with 6 mm tiles, this went brilliantly!
byggare henke: often you just put shims under the door. partly because you install door trim all around. and then there is usually a drip plate on the threshold. either loose or already attached
nimhed: Glue if you are selfish, plug and screw if you want to be kind to the person who will renovate the apartment in a few years.
storkarp: Dark-stained oak would have been nice, but the risk is that it becomes unevenly stained. I've failed before. Therefore, I thought maybe I could oil with a dark oil. Apparently, there's something called coffee oil, but I haven't found any such oil. Regarding teak, wenge, and walnut. Can you buy these materials as boards and strips somewhere? Edge-glued countertops are usually easy to find, but I
Birdman: Many different messages from authorities and insurance companies, but it seems most sensible to build a wall against the neighbor in EI60 standard, because if I only build with EI30 and a fire occurs in the attic, it will probably spread quickly. And a fire hatch with EI30 won't help the neighbor much then.
aivo: No French screws needed. Make a suitably sized hole, insert the post, brace with supports in two directions so that the post stands straight, fill the hole with concrete, let the concrete set for 3-4 days, remove the supports, done. Touch up with paint next summer when it's really dry.
Hertig: There are special concrete impregnations and waxes for such boards, check with your nearest kitchen store and they can order them for you!
eplabi: Ok, I get it. Thanks for the information! However, I read somewhere that the reinforcement in this concrete mix should be a much finer sand than what's mixed into regular concrete. Someone called it gipssand. What is that, and is it possible to get large quantities at the right price? Maybe "stenmjöl" could work?
Daniel_N: Right at the bridgehead there's a Bauhaus, they should have them.
frufridell: [citat] I tried both options, and in hindsight, I can probably say that I might have been a bit cautious. Had I put more effort into it, it probably would have worked.... The studs, however, didn't agree with the reciprocating saw, but the chainsaw cut them splendidly!
rahkko: Doesn't the wallpaper/spackle crack after some time when the door is opened and closed? There will be movement even if you screw it in tightly, right?
yens: http://www.snickarlaget.se/swe/trapptypuplan.html Maybe you can find something there.
Zxinn: [citat] Good tips, I'll check that out. The rectangular model on the theofils website seems nice. Where can you find good pipes for these, either for the 80x160mm or 80x240mm variants? [citat] That's good to keep in mind, but in my case, there shouldn't be any problem with cables in the wall here. The wall outlets are on the concrete wall in the living room, and the cables go through the ceiling
mullemeck2: no one who can answer if this is possible or which is easiest to do?
sled: Okay, sounds good. Thanks for the tip :) I usually prefer to work with 16 mm. But the idea is that the sliding doors will be built into a wall and it's quite thin, so it will probably be 12 mm.
sled: Hello! I'm wondering if it's possible to build a sliding gate in wood yourself? Has anyone done this? I've looked around online and checked out pictures of different sliding gates but can't find any in wood. I have a rough idea of how I want it to look: http://www.stangselbolaget.se/Skjutgrind_Villa.html http://www.stangselbolaget.se/film.html Like in the video but lower... and it doesn't need to
Tossegubbe: I can't comment on the price, but I have never seen anything like this made of steel actually, however, on really large glass sections, there might be a steel beam as a fastening for the aluminum section. But for such small sections, you shouldn't need a steel beam just for the sake of the glass anyway, but maybe for the bearing capacity of the wall otherwise?
nosslo77: The window recess and window sill are made of lacquered MDF board