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29 replies
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29 replies
I can't get the wall down with the chainsaw - help!
No, with that blade you will be filing the wall for the rest of the night 
They need to be biiiiig teeth, if so, about twice as large and sparse as on a handsaw approximately..
They need to be biiiiig teeth, if so, about twice as large and sparse as on a handsaw approximately..
I am skeptical that the chainsaw won't work.
It looks like spruce (or pine?), and even if it's dry and dense, a well-sharpened chainsaw shouldn't have any trouble cutting through.
Sharpen the saw, a suggestion is to have someone sharpen it with a machine, and then you can maintain-sharpen it yourself.
It's okay to hone the saw with every refueling and do a more thorough sharpening after cutting.
/ATW
Ps I saw that you sharpened the saw recently, but it only takes one nail to make it dull Ds
PPs You might need to file those rakers between the teeth sometimes, but be careful with them because the saw can become aggressive if you file too much DDs
It looks like spruce (or pine?), and even if it's dry and dense, a well-sharpened chainsaw shouldn't have any trouble cutting through.
Sharpen the saw, a suggestion is to have someone sharpen it with a machine, and then you can maintain-sharpen it yourself.
It's okay to hone the saw with every refueling and do a more thorough sharpening after cutting.
/ATW
Ps I saw that you sharpened the saw recently, but it only takes one nail to make it dull Ds
PPs You might need to file those rakers between the teeth sometimes, but be careful with them because the saw can become aggressive if you file too much DDs
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I might have been too cowardlyArneTW said:
But tomorrow I'll be the one testing with the circular saw and reciprocating saw with a new blade. Hope I'll get the wall down!
It works with all the tools mentioned in this thread. However, I think it sounds like FruFridell doesn't handle these tools daily, and in that case, a chainsaw is the last thing to try. It's very easy to injure yourself when sawing this way if you're inexperienced.
A jigsaw with a long blade, a reciprocating saw with the right blade, and a circular saw all work well and are relatively easy to use safely.
If FruFridell grew up in the forest cutting down pine and spruce, she can be forgiven and try again with the chainsaw.....
It is, after all, the fastest way.....
A jigsaw with a long blade, a reciprocating saw with the right blade, and a circular saw all work well and are relatively easy to use safely.
If FruFridell grew up in the forest cutting down pine and spruce, she can be forgiven and try again with the chainsaw.....
Are you absolutely sure it's not a load-bearing wall, then go for the reciprocating saw. Milwaukee is, in my opinion, the best saw, but you need new and proper blades. For your case with just that wall, a few budget blades should suffice.frufridell said:Going to take down some walls in the new house. Tonight I told the hubby to take responsibility for the kids so I could go off and start. Since it's timber/plank walls, I thought it should work with a chainsaw....
Boy, was I wrong! Tried both the electric saw and the regular one, it was like driving the blades into rock. Or, well, almost anyway. Got a little scratch on a plank. Realized right away this isn't going to work.
What to do?Reciprocating saw?!
Went back home and rummaged through the shed and found something called Milwaukee Sawzall and weighs a ton! Anyone think it can handle the walls? Never used a reciprocating saw before, some handling tips would be welcome! How do I know the blade is for wood, by the way?
Does anyone have another idea on how to bring down the walls? Just don't say crowbar because I've tried that, and I don't want to test dynamite.
A little picture of the sturdy wall is attached!
Avoid a binding circular saw with a smoking motor.
Cut one plank at a time, about in the middle and then tear it away with a sturdy crowbar if you have one. Then take the next, and the next, and the next, and then a beer when you're done
Old plank walls can be a bit tricky sometimes, but they come down. I've taken down quite a few.
MathiasS said:However, I think it sounds like FruFridell doesn't handle these tools daily, and a chainsaw is the last thing you should try. It's very easy to hurt yourself when sawing in this way if you're inexperienced. If FruFridell grew up in the forest felling pine and spruce, she gets an apology and another go with the chainsaw.....It is still the fastest way.....
Yes, I actually grew up in the "forest," but I only handle chainsaws a few times a week....and only for "simpler" tasks, like felling/cutting. I wouldn't call myself an expert by any means. However, I've never used a reciprocating saw, and only used a circular saw on horizontal objects.
....guess I was just too cautious.
But now I'm going to call the expensive store in the neighboring village to check if they have blades!
I'll probably get back tonight with the results...unless I've really messed up something terribly.
YES! Now I've gone at it with a tiger saw in the walls! It was a complete joy to set the blade into the wall. Like cutting butter with a hot knife!
Couldn't wait until the evening and just had to try it after I had been out to buy new blades, as well as Allen wrenches in inches! Took the 3-year-old with me, who didn't exactly appreciate when mom went to town on the walls. At least not until she discovered she could play TV in one of the holes!
As usual dear forum, THANK YOU for all the tips and advice!
Including a little photo evidence, tonight the rest will disappear too!
The only explanation I can think of for the chainsaw not being able to handle the wall was that you tried to cut along the fibers instead of across the fibers. If you want to split with a chainsaw, I recall that a different type of chain is needed.
I tried both options, and in hindsight, I can probably say that I might have been a bit cautious. Had I put more effort into it, it probably would have worked....joflopp said:
The studs, however, didn't agree with the reciprocating saw, but the chainsaw cut them splendidly!
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