Building Materials and Construction Technology
torke1: There are pre-painted "plankor" in different widths to match various wall thicknesses. I usually shop at Hornbach, but they are likely available at all hardware stores. At Hornbach, you can find them near the door frames.
Minimalisten: Yes, it's Ikea's faucet. What did we seal with? Well, no idea but I'll ask the carpenter tomorrow. I think a soft sealant behind the trim.
Tinsi: Thinking a lot but not getting much wiser :) Anyway, it's probably going to be 70 rule with cc 40 now! OSB and 12.5 plasterboard. I'll solve the "grusgropen" somehow. Is OSB available in different thicknesses or is it standard? Open to more ideas if anyone comes up with any. Thanks for the answers Have a nice evening/night
JOW: Ah, thanks for byggelit, found their page now.... At the time of writing, RH in Uppsala (according to SMHI) is 99%. In golv_broschyr_sve.pdf [citat] In montanv_tempo_sv.pdf: [citat] The question is how quickly the equilibrium moisture content in the chipboard changes if it is positioned dry and airy but outdoors over a winter... you don't want to take chances! Probably need to rethink the
Fredrik.engdahl: I believe that you are not supposed to plaster on the outdoor gypsum because there is cardboard, instead you should use a cement-based board.
Bergling: If you're going to save money anyway, Byggmax has cement bags for 39.95. It's almost half the price compared to Beijer.
monsterbyggare: Is it not possible to use "innegipsskiva" instead of utegipsskiva on the outside of the house/garage with a wooden facade? What would be the essential difference in the gypsum and what could happen if you still quickly mount the wood panels on the facade?
Guzzi: [citat] There is probably no advantage at all. I just think the result looks nice. As stated here, you shouldn't have to hang up the rebar. Then the concrete is too loose. Rather, it's the case that you have to press the rebar into the concrete. It's a bit of tinkering before it gets good,
Linda K M: It became 200 mm plinth pipes and 1.2 m down into the ground with rebar. I have drilled and dug some today, 6 holes, so now there are only 7 holes left to drill and dig, so the casting will be next weekend.
Johan Gunverth: [citat] Nope. The painters allow (and advocate for) paper gypsum for wet room systems. Wet room wallpapers should belong to this too, right?
Farzan: In our house, the previous owner had installed chipboard on almost all the walls upstairs, filled the joints, taped over (fiberglass), and then filled over this. Then wallpapered. I can state that it's not a major problem that the boards aren't beveled like drywall; the joints look pretty good even though the tape and filler sit on top of the boards instead of in a bevel. But the durability is
ilovepancakes: Yes, when I pulled out the old strip, they were held with nails that were completely square. That's what I call a nail! :) I'll try with nail plugs. I'll get back to you if it doesn't go well. Thanks for the help, gang!
Fetkubrick: Hello! I'm considering building my own chimney stack for my vacation home. The simplest possible model, a half-brick channel, meaning four bricks per course. A couple of questions though: Is it OK to tie in a chimney stack? I was thinking of tying the chimney stack to the fire wall. Or will it crack due to mixing steel and brick? I found a Finnish instruction that says it's OK. In the document,
mulpac: The person who built it seems to have been concerned with ensuring it is stable sideways for some reason, meaning that what is on top of the wall should not move to the right or left in the figure. It might also be that the posts bear a heavy load and the braces are there to prevent them from bending. Or perhaps they just wanted the wall to be sturdy. However, to know if it has a load-bearing
Tokv41: [citat] Not at all!! A bar counter doesn't have to be a black Ikea shelf with chrome bar stools as mentioned... I definitely think you should go for it.. As mentioned, a nice way to socialize... Good luck!!
wedge73: http://www.byggahus.se/newreply.php?do=newreply&p=442019 Well... according to the link above (if I did it correctly), he meant nail "nings" plates, as did I. By overlapping I mean that the upper frame goes down beside (overlapping) the lower frame and is screwed together with it (not through), thus a single-shear joint. That is, without splices. Could place the equivalent of the upper frame's
Mikael_L: [citat] That's good, a plank structure of that house size would probably weigh an extra ton or so. Then it's a question of whether it's mineral wool or chip insulation. The latter also weighs more. But if you have a frame structure and mineral wool, you don't have anything that, quite unexpectedly, weighs more than "likely" or "estimated". :)
Hans H: Hello. I need to mortar together 3 * 6 glass block pieces in one place, and then move the "panel" to another location. (of course, after the mortar has set) Is this possible, or do the blocks easily crack apart again? /Hans.
maddish: Now I have been sitting and reading around a bit here in the forum, but it has only given me more questions... We have a basement about 3.5x3.5m. Now we have torn up the old, uninsulated floor and are going to replace the beams and insulate. That was the plan. Now that I've read here, I learned that it's not just about insulating randomly. If the temperature in the basement changes, you can get
meckis: do you mean with the plaster variant? I painted the hole white, and painted out a bit on each side in every room, so it became like a fake trim, it turned out great.
rwnob: FYI. I skipped the silicone-like option and instead bought fiberglass packing 87-473 at Biltema for the heat glass, which included an adhesive that withstands heat. So there is now an adhesive edge around the glass - pressed it into place and "fastened" it with the strip and with the help of a few washers. Then I sealed a bit more with stove sealant that I had at home. It's still holding after
maverik: Hello! I'm really a beginner at everything related to construction, but I'm the type who likes to try to solve the problem myself. However, I absolutely don't want to do anything unless I'm sure it will hold. I'm going to build a loft in my apartment in one part of a room that is 6x4m, so at the end towards one short side, it will be about 2m out into the room and thus roughly 4m between the
max2009: There is aerated concrete behind the plaster. I was thinking of putting plugs in the wall, then screwing the board and then gluing+screwing plasterboard onto the board.
P-plats: M4 is available but not very common. I find, for example, M4X20 at one of my suppliers... M5, however, is much more common and should be possible to solve at the nearest hardware store with a little willingness to help!
Tokv41: It is only two days old. I have also been considering that it burned at different rates, but I know that the rebar sank to about half a centimeter from the bottom. I believe this was due to the concrete being too loose. However, I have little experience with concrete casting, so I'm not sure if this is a normal appearance for the time it has been curing. I have watered the surface a bit to make
Mikael_L: If you proceed with the pallet option, you can secure it a bit extra with a "dubb." Drill with a 4 or 5mm concrete drill through the lower plank of the pallet and only about 5-10mm into the concrete, then insert a 4.8 x 25mm wood screw (or the length that is suitable), which will give you a dubb that makes it impossible for the pallet to slide as long as there are a few hundred kg loaded on it.
arrowsmith: Can someone with experience in building with concrete elements recommend who to turn to for purchasing the elements, good price and good people to deal with, i.e. The garage will be built in southern Sweden and the supplier should have their own crane truck.