Building Materials and Construction Technology
titanium: Not so easy to fix. You can't spray loose-fill insulation and fill the entire space. Then you will have problems with poor ventilation and eventually mold. The two air holes are extremely important not to block. You probably need to place the insulation between the floor joists or both between and under the floor joists to get sufficient thickness of insulation. Is it possible to cut a temporary
norpan__: The house stands on concrete piers and on top of that are concrete foundation beams. Can Minerit Fasad panels be buried to prevent soil from entering the crawl space or is there a better option? Here's some more information about what I mean. Number 10 is the barrier. http://www.traguiden.se/TGtemplates/popup2spalt.aspx?id=4421&contextPage=5945
Mats: That was the idea :) The biggest change is probably the front where I have moved up the 90X225 beam significantly and then I "only" insert a 45X225 above the doors to attach the loft floor to. In this way, I eliminated that general joint that the old beam entailed. I plan to use asfa plus 22/28 mm nail batten and 22 mm panel as cladding.
Jan-Å: [citat] Having residents below or not doesn't significantly affect the floor's temperature from what I've noticed, whether we lived on the 3rd floor of an apartment or on the second floor of our own house. What matters is what kind of floor you have. Where we have oak strip parquet (60s model with solid strips about 8 mm thick, not today's model which is more veneer on chipboard), it's never
HiScore: Thank you for the answers! Or if we manage, perhaps a combination of the two answers above?! Small posts that match the one on the right and a larger one in the same style. A bit of work to get it right, but it might be an idea... Does anyone have any more suggestions? They are warmly welcomed!
bengan24: Need to have heating in the house during construction time until around March 2010 We will have waterborne underfloor heating, should we have a portable unit for it to get heat that way? Tips on which unit to rent/buy and where?? Or are electric fans an option? What is best? The house is a single-story, 150 sqm from Fiskarhedenvillan. Best regards, Magnus
addee: I am about to do some plastering in the basement. 2 scenarios: (can't find info on either websites or bags) The surface is blåbetong. 1. Chiseled off old plaster. Have applied rödgrund. Will apply b-bruk. Should it dry between rödgrund and plastering? 2. Chiseled off old plaster, will apply rödgrund, then netting, then plaster, and then tile. Should it dry between rödgrund and
CHEMAS: Read about it. But that applies to the one-step method and wooden houses. Let's say you have a lightweight concrete house. If you add wood to it, you have the "wood problem"; if you add stucco, you don't. Not as frequently since the sun doesn't wear on the stucco like it does on wood. However, on the paint, which causes the stucco to absorb more and more moisture, leading to frost damage. So
petersk: You have to look at the whole picture. How does it look above? How high is the wall in your apartment? You want to see how the loads can be distributed (valva). In the best case, it might be enough with L-steel on each side that you mill into the wall before demolishing. If there are no complications, you should probably end up with something like 2 HEA 120. Pillars are probably not needed. If
MaZtoR: One must be able to provide building instructions when renting out scaffolding. That was one of the few things we learned in the "course." Available for download on Hakis' website, so it's not a problem.
kamy: Rivners in the Länna industrial area has plenty of radiators. http://www.rivners.se Kompanjonen (which used to be located in Ropsten but seems to be moving to Hammarby sjöstad) also has old sectional radiators. http://www.kompanjonen.se
Jonajona: Well, not really. But if you have the answer to that, please do tell. I admit I was a bit unclear. I'm mostly wondering what kind of mortar these guys used on the houses and walls that turned out so beautifully. I never talked to them, otherwise, I would have asked. Of course, they were incredibly skilled at achieving a fantastically fine and even surface, so it's obviously not just about the
Tegheim: Don't know if this is the right forum section, but I'll take a chance. Where can one get snow guard rails at reasonable prices? I've received a quote of 750:- + VAT per door. And each door is about 2.5 meters plus an entrance door. 4 doors at 2.40-2.50 meters 1 entrance door What do you say? Feels steep with 4500-5000:- for the entire construction.... Should go on this build including the old
(Inte Alltid)Glad Ammatör: Thanks Janne and Tossegubben! It feels reassuring to have you experienced gôbbar here on the forum.:)
Robban66: I am rebuilding the garage and one of the existing walls (short side) is made of brick. The new roof will be higher than the old one, and there will be a gap above the brick wall between the wall and the roof. I have extended the wall inside the brick, and the studs inside the brick now go all the way up to the roof, but there is a gap above the brick about 8 cm wide where I need to "fill" with
oskis 123: Sounds like a fun project. Talk to the sotarn. He knows how he wants it to approve the installation. Additionally, you need to submit a building notification.
Bergling: [citat] Isn't plaster a bit too hard for that? I can't imagine one being able to easily stick a regular needle into a plasterboard. What I spontaneously think of are sound absorbers that are usually used in offices and the like. But it might be way too expensive. (Check out http://www.bullerbekamparen.se/ for examples) However, I'm a bit unsure about how durable it would be for downward tension,
studiomannen: Hmm, hesitating about this with cc. I think the self-weight becomes too heavy if you set cc 60 but of course, it has to hold. Is there anyone who thinks cc 120 is enough? I've used Enkelstugan's truss as a model and it's 170 and sits cc 120. Or is it the congregation's collective opinion that cc 60 is what it should be? :) Thanks for the answers!!! /Roger The construction is now in progress as
billy_baver: The vault must not be opened closer to the log corners than to maintain their ability to lock the construction. In principle, you need, for example, a calculated glulam beam horizontally, which is relieved via vertical supporting elements down to the foundation, which may also need to be reinforced. If you let an experienced carpenter take a look on site, he can surely advise you if the
Farzan: b8q is absolutely right in everything he says, but I want to add our experience just to give a "well-rounded illumination" of the issue... Our house is from 1927 and nearly thirty years ago, previous owners installed hydronic floor heating and tiled floors in the basement—without insulating downward. Even if it’s not optimal, it does work... it gets warm... and the energy consumption
Ugglebo: Hello www.garderobspecialisten.com offers DIY kits for building sliding doors for wardrobes. I'm considering trying this for my hallway project.
pinebar: If there is rain accumulating and dripping hard, you can attach a small metal plate, string, or chain that the water can follow so that it doesn't fall.
anaitis: No, it's closer to lower! Without looking at the table, I don't remember if the next class one step up is called C22 or C24. So choose a one step higher class for the timber if you need to replace any part.
pbengtsson: I have treads in ash (riser) and this is because I have ash flooring. Ash is significantly lighter than oak and doesn't have the same grain, so I don't understand the trick of staining it like oak. Sure, ash is a bit harder, but oak isn't exactly soft either. The risers in solid ash cost me as much as risers in solid oak, so it seems like the price difference wouldn't be that big. It's not that
apotekarnes: In old houses, windows are often flush with the paneling, but back then they also used wood of much higher quality than in today's windows. A window that is positioned at the outermost part in this way is exposed to rain and inclement weather much more, and if you have a deep window recess indoors, you also get drafts and condensation/ice on the panes more easily, which wears them out. I think
apotekarnes: That looks like typical tracks made by wood wasps and is nothing to worry about unless you have a surface that needs to be visible and aesthetically pleasing. The larvae are probably long gone by now. I cut wood myself and have used a lot of my own lumber with tracks without any problems.