Building Materials and Construction Technology
Johan Gunverth: It may be appropriate to choose frost-resistant tiles.
Kurtivan: This also interests me as I have plans to fix my basement walls. Gaia, are you completely sure that cement-based plaster works worse? I just purchased Serpo 135 for my repairs but is it wrong then? What should I have bought?
Ahlbom: also check houses being given away or houses with roots on blocket, sometimes the house has a chimney which can be knocked down and used
Ahlbom: Are there walls for the toilet and bathroom area that need to be erected? You mention that you need to build them up 80-100 cm, is there an existing wall already?
Ahlbom: Hello, it depends a bit on what kind of feel you want for the ceiling. With a plank ceiling, you get more character. MDF is also an okay solution if you have time to paint it with a brush to give it more character; if you use a roller or spray gun, it tends to look rather flat. One solution to avoid potential shrinkage with a real wooden ceiling is to prime the planks before installation; that
Ahlbom: Hello there, I have aligned the walls in an old 1800s cottage and I found a good solution, I first put up Tritex boards, those yellow boards of 12mm, they are quite soft and absorb irregularities from the wall behind them, and on top of them I then put plaster. But then of course it depends on how crooked your walls are. Take a straightedge as tall as the wall and draw it around to see how the
Ahlbom: I would guess that the joint made with glue is more resistant to steam if you disregard the choice of color. My experience is that MDF doors are very sensitive to moisture and steam and that they easily crack over the years. Wood, on the other hand, tends to allow moisture to move. The 2mm difference you can perhaps cover with a latex sealant or similar?
Ahlbom: Hello, I'm not entirely sure what the chimney sweep means by saying the insulation must be removed. Around a chimney, there must be a certain free space of non-combustible material. Often, the "pipe" is usually enclosed with special insulation with a metal mesh around it. Is there a metal mesh around the insulation you're looking at in the shaft? What Micke59 is talking about with värmekulit is
Avemo: There are guides on how to build a fire-rated wall. http://www.cembrit.se/Produkter-5895.aspx?ProductID=PROD61 The version with two normalminerit boards and 70mm stone wool I've built next to a wood stove. Probably overkill, but it was poorly done before. The old protection, which was original from 1903, consisted of a metal sheet 5cm from the wooden wall. Another 5cm away stood the wood stove.
frhe: In materials like fiberglass, moisture in the air will condense within the material, and therefore, the possibility of moisture entering it must be prevented. In, for instance, cellulose, a certain (quite large) amount of moisture can be absorbed by the material, which prevents condensation, allowing for the selection of a less dense material (provided that there are periods when the insulation
kaffe_med_dopp: Posted the question in the byggnadsvårdsforumet instead.
Krawk: It is most likely load-bearing. That does not mean it is impossible to tear down. However, it requires reinforcements and offsets for the load-bearing of the roof. Contact a structural engineer.
John J: I think the staircase is incredibly beautiful as it is. I would either have stripped it and then soap treated it or simply just oiled it with linseed oil.
GSM-Peter: [citat] Hello, Thanks for the tip. I've been considering it. I plan to glue two doors together to make a wide sliding door. I thought about gluing the lock case to lock case with a square piece in both lock cases and using a through 40mm dowel to lock the construction. Unnecessary, yes, but a bit of fun. With the price of plug drills, it's not happening. It'll be a square hole, or I'll cut off a
Eld: Mortar that you dilute to a porridge-like consistency and then apply with a broom. I have done it. The stairs will be guaranteed slip-proof in the bargain.
mIkEtReE: Thank you very much. Now I have found what I needed to find!
pinebar: It didn't break if I pulled the nails "to the side," parallel to the board. I grabbed with the outermost edge of the pliers. But if it's not nailed, then it might be glued. It's probably not as easy then. Found a picture: [bild]
injonil: Yes. And you could probably make a concrete beam yourself too when you already have the concrete truck there... But I feel a bit uncertain about what loads there might be. Partly it’s the rafters that will land on this wall and partly there are 2 floor joists that use the wall as support. Everything has to go down into the concrete slab on which the basement is built. I don't think you can just
lasseseger: I have some thoughts about different facades, so I'm wondering what the price difference is between facade stone like MEXI, plaster, and wood paneling? Is there something to go by, like SEK/m2 or similar?
strobb: I am planning to build a conservatory and attach a glulam beam to the eaves where the roof beams will be attached. I intend to screw the glulam through a 22mm plank and into the house's roof truss with 6x150mm screws, maybe 4 or 5 of them. Does this seem like a secure attachment since the entire roof's weight rests on these screws?? There will be maybe 7 screw joints with 4 or 5 screws in each.
pajsen: I am going to glue some slate tiles on form plywood and I am wondering if they will stick with either PL400 or PL600 or some other adhesive because the surface is quite slippery...?
hamnet: [citat] Checked Byggmax and Bauhaus, only garden stone of various types. [citat] Thanks, thanks. I'll check there! :)
Yrrol: had a carpenter over a week ago, one of them thought the cement block had started to slope and the vertical beam had sort of slipped to the side or something. The other day it struck me, instead of lifting and trying to knock back the existing vertical beam and then lifting up the roof beam on it; why not just put a new, extra, vertical beam next to it, and lift the roof beam onto that instead...
ylven: How precise do you want to be? If you want an absolutely smooth surface, you should probably use battens and scrape against them. Rendering first or using primer mortar is probably not a bad idea, otherwise the joints may show. If you're not aiming for an exactly smooth surface, I recommend Serpo 135 applied with a steel-trowel, it's the easy way for a beginner!
Fisch: 5.5 m is a lot, but fully possible with, for example, smaller cc between the studs. I think it's unjustified to have a load-bearing wall 2 m from one edge and 5.5 m from the other. It feels quite natural for the steel beam to be there.
klaskarlsson: If you have moisture problems in the basement, or have had them, I would use inorganic materials in direct contact with walls/floors. Drywall that is not directly against damp walls is probably no problem at all—after all, there is, for example, drywall in many cold, closed summer cottages that don't have issues with it... However, I would skip the wooden studs, or place age-resistant plastic
d_j: [citat] Here are images of several trappkompasser http://images.google.se/images?q=trappkompass&hl=sv&sa=N&um=1
ylven: The answer may be a bit late, but still. I think birch would be particularly unsuitable as construction timber for a greenhouse since birch rots very easily and quickly when exposed to humid environments. Perhaps it could be treated in a way to prevent this, but it's probably better to choose another type of wood and use the birch for something more enjoyable.
norrbottenstorpet: I haven't done it myself, but in my old house, part of the chimney is tiled. Partly with cement-based (old) adhesive, partly with something resembling lime mortar. But making it stick shouldn't be a problem. If you're worried about drying out too quickly, you can dampen the plaster before you start. I also believe, like you, that the best thing for a chimney is to be able to absorb and release a
moOd: Thank you! I had completely missed that such a solution was already described in their documentation. I also didn't know they had solutions for mechanical ventilation of the subfloor. This fits like a glove in my case.. :)