Building Materials and Construction Technology
Freddo26: Yes, there you go, I'll fix it tomorrow and scrape some of the spackle that's there now =) Thanks for the answer!
Mattias2: I bought drywall at Byggmax once. Never again. I think the brand was Lafarge, and there were large bulges around every inserted screw, had to plaster like crazy. Nowadays, I buy sheets at Bauhaus (Norgips) as it's convenient to load and they seem to have a better climate in the Drive-In hall compared to the humid K-Rauta and Byggmax, which might negatively affect the drywall.
Jan-Å: [citat] That's right, I didn't know it before, but when I opened the packages there was a bag with screws for the ends. I built our deck in 2004 and haven't done anything like that since, so it might have changed in any case.
mrVoodoo: Due to various delays, I haven't tried yet, but tomorrow, Sunday, I’ll be doing some screwing with Essve's lightweight concrete screws, so we'll see how it goes. [citat] Chemical anchors sound slightly insane to my ears when you're putting up about 600-700m of battens :x It would probably cost a small fortune and take about 10 times too long? Or maybe it goes quickly? In any case, it feels
pason_67: -> gadu It was probably from you that I got the idea with nåtat (not entirely unlike anti-slip tape) between treads and stair nosings. No idea if it would work but still waiting to see if someone has tested it. Or something similar.
PCLarsson: If you have roof trusses with collar ties, keep in mind that the underlayment is part of the construction. If you remove the underlayment, you should/must also reinforce the collar ties to stiffen them laterally. When the load comes, the underlayment normally ensures that the collar tie does not bend. Good luck PC
PeterNacka: Exactly, I’m thinking of putting 5cm joists under the supports to not stress the concrete too much as I’ve heard that ideally a week should pass. It's a long weekend and I want to work as efficiently as possible so I can get the gate up and start working :) Thanks again!
MatsTyresö: You talk about both strength class and hardness, which are not the same thing. The strength class indicates the screw material's yield strength and tensile strength and is specified as, for example, 4.6 or 10.9. Hardness is measured with a method (Rockwell, Vickers, Brinell) and is more to be seen as a comparison number (even though there are numerous formulas to calculate yield strength based on
SDJ: Hello I am renovating the ground floor and will be installing a fireplace against an existing chimney. There used to be an oil burner installed on the opposite side of the chimney that is now sealed, and I have opened it on the side where I will install the fireplace. I assumed that I would need to do some masonry work for it to be secure, but I’ve run into some issues. There is a flue inside
gadu^: What would life be without taking chances... I first drilled down 2mm with the 18 drill, then drilled the remaining 20mm with the 16 drill. The first drill prevented the chip from cracking and bending upwards. Now they're in place, holding the posts for the stair railing. Very nice!
verktygsgurun: Not many have fogband at home on the shelf... definitely not Byggmax. Beijer will bring it home for you if you order. Fogband is expensive.
cederbusch: Tried using byggmax decking screws yesterday, worked perfectly. Although I had to drill for a while for the screw to get a grip in the eternit.
Stefan N: Option 1 Regular plaster works fine.
funkisen: Does anyone have knowledge on the moisture resistance of Kerto beams? In the event of water damage where water penetrates the floor structure, is it worse with Kerto than with regular construction timber in the load-bearing structure?
pbengtsson: It will be unsteady. But the support beams can be as simple as possible, build a frame with 2"3 at the bottom, posts are screwed into this and a 2"3 that supports the boards. The posts don't need to be driven into the ground; it's enough for the bottom rule to rest against the sand. Another tip is to screw everything. I have my dock in saltwater and have used DynaPlus screws with excellent
wicket: I'm asking myself the same question. I've also only found 70x70 and 95x95 in NTR/A class. But I've only checked Bauhaus, Byggmax, and K-Rauta (in Örebro). I should check out some more specialized wood retailers. Any tips on such places in the Örebro or Katrineholm area are welcome!
GustavW: My guess is that the partition wall on the second floor is part of the roof truss. I have the same solution with elevated wall life and a load-bearing partition wall upstairs. A beam supporting the middle of the house where the wall is missing.
zsimpey: or a laminated beam at the top that carries the load to the gables/ load-bearing walls in the construction.
MaZtoR: If you don't have over 2.6m ceiling height now, I would ABSOLUTELY NOT lower the ceiling.
cane: Hi, does anyone have a program/lists that can check the minimum timber dimensions to avoid a break under a 500kg distributed load over a 1.8m span? This concerns a storage tank that I want to elevate a bit in the basement, but space is limited and I would like to economize on timber dimensions. Thanks!
Fope: Hi! I am about to build a Smålandsvillan Västervik, wondering if anyone has construction drawings for the upper floor? So you can see exactly how to proceed with air gap, studs, insulation and the like... // Regards Fope
sanna62larsson: Does anyone have experience with building a duct on the outside of the house wall? We currently have a charcoal filter fan and don't think it works well. Since the stove is not positioned by the chimney wall, we can't connect it to the existing duct. I would love to get tips on how to proceed or if it's possible to build a duct on the outside of the house.
pejo82: Ok, then I think I'll attach them with the wood screw first. When everything is in place, it's quite easy to switch to the fransoserna, and it feels like it won't hold.
Plura: In one of the corners, we will not have a basement, and it's the interior corner of the basement that will get the mat according to our constructor. His reasoning was that it is thicker and can withstand more physical impact since we need to pack the masses properly there (to prevent that corner of the house from settling). So it's only a part of the basement wall that will get the mat, while the
anaitis: How is the wall constructed? Inner layer, middle, and outside.
Enk Projektet: No problem, contact a local blacksmith. But don't choose too weak a dimension.