Building Materials and Construction Technology
mickeolsson: Hello I have carried out an extensive renovation where I, together with my old father-in-law, have added an additional floor to the house. When we did that, (of course) the existing interior brick walls became too low. As it stands today, we have temporarily propped up the new roof trusses in the middle until it was time to build up the interior walls again... and that time is now. Now I'm going
jimmyboy_666: The wood guide was a good page to look at, I probably saw it before but it was a long time ago. I nailed a strip of lath with the correct roof angle under the wind deflector before installation so I can attach the windproof cloth to it. It's basically the same as what you did "Nybyggarn". Yes, one should probably have sorted out the wind deflectors before the tongue and groove as mentioned. But
Boan: Okay, then I'll go for silicone first... it does feel better when there is the possibility, once it's dried it shouldn't come off even if it absorbs oil from the side.
JOW: Don't dare to contradict you, I know that right now together with a carpenter, I'm nailing double tongue and groove as I said. It is tongue and grooved, yours is shiplapped, whether that has any significance I don't know, you'll have to hope someone who knows 100% for sure writes an answer...
moOd: [citat] I don't think so, because I watered that wall quite often over a 3-day period approximately. I'm a bit reluctant to knock off the plaster and redo it, but maybe that's the only option. Just trying to understand what went wrong...
oskis 123: Get a hammer drill and drill and plug. Trying to glue a board up first and then screw into it doesn't seem like a good idea.
Fasting65: If you want to stiffen the floor structure, I suggest using floor gypsum (which is much harder than wall gypsum) that you glue with a floor structure-stiffening compound. There are several on the market, but the last time I worked with such things, the following suppliers and products were available: Ardex Ardurit S48 Bostik Bostik Rep & Fix, Bostic Fix Multi Casco Schönox FS Kiilto Kiilto
gadu^: We have consistently used Hornbach roofing tiles at 69 SEK/sqm and are very satisfied. They are 6-7mm tongue-and-groove MDF tiles.
surfarn: I'm sitting and sketching a bit on a house we're considering building. But then it hit me, how large can the windows be drawn if we want to avoid needing a glulam beam above? I know this isn't a question that can be answered generally, but I'm just curious about an approximate. Assume the windows will be on the ground floor of a 1.5-story house.
Matti_75: Spray on a substance called borakol, it kills the mold spores. However, the spots do not disappear. Then it's free to use the boards.
grungarn: I can report that the door I closed hasn't cracked at the seams, and it's been about 8 months now anyway:)
MathiasS: [citat] Yes, it often does. And it is stronger. But not as much stronger as some people think.
shieldfire: It's been a long time since I was involved in renovations, so I'm unsure about most things :) Currently, I'm repainting a bedroom so we can move in there with furniture. In the future, I'm considering replacing the floor moldings with something more period-appropriate (the house is from around 1780) and also the window trim. (It seems like the room was renovated and insulated (treetex) and the
countach: where can you buy timber profiles by the meter? I'm looking for a timber profile about 45*145. Is it available to buy somewhere around Luleå and what is the usual price per meter? grateful for answers.
Bananaosten: The extension will start where the house starts and end 3.5 meters into the façade. Will try to draw it up.
RoughChuck: My idea relies on you getting rid of the tongue on the chipboards... "Rimpor" wasn't exactly construction lingo, maybe not a language at all... haha. What I mean is that you get/buy a sheet of formply (brownish, lacquered) and then measure how thick the chipboard is (22mm?), add the desired concrete thickness (15mm?), and then cut the formply into such wide strips/rimpor/pieces/lengths. Then
eldhead: Hello, I have a large hill, (+5000x10000x10000) on my property with very steep edges, and now I've decided I want to utilize it by building an expanded earth cellar/shelter/man cave. How do you go about it? How were earth cellars constructed in the past, did they dig out everything, build, and then refill? Is it possible to build a form just below the excavated level and then pump in concrete?
estwing: it actually occurs that there can be gypsum plasterboard scraps inside the wall. many put in the scraps because it insulates and it's nice when you want to hang something on the wall and drill, you have more *mass* to anchor into. these boards can lie loose and when the ground shakes, they *might* vibrate. just a theory... best regards, estwing
mycke_nu: There are all sorts of flexible sealants (latex) for both narrow and wide gaps. The next step up is various flexible sealing compounds for roofing and flame stop for fire sealing. Whether these are gas-tight is not really clear from the specifications, but they are certainly all better than the porous foam sealant. I would go and browse a bit in the hardware store, there is much to choose from.
Stefan N: No, does NOT work as a joint strip, return.
kanis: Go to a proper hardware store (not Byggmax, Cheapy, Jem&Fix) and "grab" someone from the staff. They usually can make some special arrangements... I used to work at a hardware store before and sure, the plastic was usually sold on a 25-meter roll, but we also had a roll from which we could sell by the meter.
markusmattsson: Ok, in other words, it's time to consult an expert if it becomes relevant... Thanks for the great response!
mister_swede: Hello everyone, here's some math I need help with... I have a large deck of 48sqm. Bearing beam 8x6 m, meaning on the sides there's a bearing beam bolted to the house with 150mm hex bolts in the framework with 600cc between the bolts. Joists are 198mm and are secured with 600cc in fully screwed joist hangers in the bearing beam. All joists have noggings in between so they won't twist. Decking is
Pucco: No "cross" needed. The plastic sheets serve the same purpose when screwed. Like a bookshelf with a masonite board on the back.
hempularen: I guess 220 studs will suffice. Consider it an indication of what can probably be done. Then you must bring in an engineer to calculate it. The attachment to the house should also be examined, as it's not certain the wall can handle the extra load. It's possible that it can even be made a bit lighter.
Mattias_Jo1: Reached the full width! Saw blade isn't that long, is it? Great info! Thanks, thanks!
Bjarven: I would guess that you need to have an air gap and then clad the wall against the chimney stack with a minerit board. But as I said - your chimney sweeper will give you directives. /Bjarven
cederbusch: No one with experience who can comment on the matter?