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8 replies
32k views
8 replies
Screwing battens in leca, choice of screw/plug?
The notice states to set up studs/battens (45x70, choosing 45 to have a bit more to nail into) on a stable and a storage unit built with leca. So, we're talking about relatively large areas, and I'm looking for the method that seems fastest/easiest without compromising on sturdiness.
- My first thought is lightweight concrete screws, saw some a while ago, I think they were from Essve. Quite heavy-duty screws that you just thread right into the leca, with a pre-drilled stud, of course. There were really long ones of this variant that should allow for relatively good tightening before wrenching the threading apart.
- Nail plug? Better or worse than the lightweight concrete screw?
- Screw and plug? Holds firmly with the right plug, but it will be time-consuming. Probably TOO time-consuming for me to want to have this as an option.
- Other suggestion?
The cladding will later be with 21x145 and 21x50 cover battens. For the previous stable, I screwed the cladding boards, but because of the time it takes, I'm considering nailing this time, since I already have a nail gun.
Should I just use 60-70mm for the cladding board or go with 90mm to get a slightly thicker nail (which probably has a higher withdrawal torque?) even though the nail will go through the batten and into the leca?
- My first thought is lightweight concrete screws, saw some a while ago, I think they were from Essve. Quite heavy-duty screws that you just thread right into the leca, with a pre-drilled stud, of course. There were really long ones of this variant that should allow for relatively good tightening before wrenching the threading apart.
- Nail plug? Better or worse than the lightweight concrete screw?
- Screw and plug? Holds firmly with the right plug, but it will be time-consuming. Probably TOO time-consuming for me to want to have this as an option.
- Other suggestion?
The cladding will later be with 21x145 and 21x50 cover battens. For the previous stable, I screwed the cladding boards, but because of the time it takes, I'm considering nailing this time, since I already have a nail gun.
Should I just use 60-70mm for the cladding board or go with 90mm to get a slightly thicker nail (which probably has a higher withdrawal torque?) even though the nail will go through the batten and into the leca?
Is there really no one who has an opinion? There must be a lot of people here who have mounted battens/frame timbers on leca d^_^b
Came across a 4th option yesterday at bygggmax. They had something called "Fasadplugg," more expensive though, like a heavier and oversized nail plug. Has anyone used these?
Bought a pack of Essve's lightweight concrete screws, will probably try them out during the day, we'll see how it goes.....
Came across a 4th option yesterday at bygggmax. They had something called "Fasadplugg," more expensive though, like a heavier and oversized nail plug. Has anyone used these?
Bought a pack of Essve's lightweight concrete screws, will probably try them out during the day, we'll see how it goes.....
It's troublesome to get something to attach in the leca, I suggest using chemical anchors that are sold by, among others, Hilti. You drill a hole about 10 mm larger than the sleeve, insert a sleeve that you can attach the bracket with, and fill the hole with the chemical mass. This is commonly used in the industry for securing machines and robots that must not shift, it holds firm.
In the sauna, I will install timber paneling and have reached the battening stage. Two walls are made of Leca where I have used nail plugs. Pre-drilled through the battens and wall then inserted the nail plug. Holds well.
An important thing to consider for someone who is going to screw into siporex (not the same thing in leca) is that the facade plug tends to crack the siporex elements while this lightweight concrete screw does not.
I used clip nails for 28x70 battens. That works too and makes it quick to put up the battens. I believe that lightweight concrete screws hold better, but by driving the clip nails alternately at an angle, the battens are better fixed.
Due to various delays, I haven't tried yet, but tomorrow, Sunday, I’ll be doing some screwing with Essve's lightweight concrete screws, so we'll see how it goes.

Chemical anchors sound slightly insane to my ears when you're putting up about 600-700m of battens :x It would probably cost a small fortune and take about 10 times too long? Or maybe it goes quickly? In any case, it feels excluded. As mentioned, it’s just the panel that needs to go up, no industrial robotsSkumpen said:It's difficult to get anything to hold in the lecan, I suggest you use chemical anchors like those sold by Hilti, among others. You drill a hole about 10 mm larger than the sleeve, insert a sleeve that you can fasten the rule with, and fill the hole with the chemical mass. It is used a lot in the industry for fixing machines and robots that cannot shift, it holds like a rock.
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