Building Materials and Construction Technology
b8q: I have just replastered parts of my basement walls. It's fine to do it yourself, and if the thickness is at least 5 mm, it's not too difficult to make it look nice. The biggest problem (in my case) was making it look neat at the joint with the existing remaining plaster. However, it took much longer (and used more bags) than I thought, as you can't mix too much plaster at once if you want to get
mkallgren: Hello! I need some advice regarding a wall in my apartment in a building from the late 1800s. By the front door, a large piece of the brick wall facing the stairwell has been removed at some point. This was done to install pipes and push buttons for electricity/lighting. I am now going to rewire all the electricity and need to repair this damage. The hole itself is about 20x10 cm and at its
Matti_75: There is a golden rule that says single-story house roofs on day one. Two-story house roofs on day two. Have built 8 prefab houses.
fredda_p: It is more humid in the summer than you think....doesn't really matter, it has obviously grown :) I wouldn't spray this agent, brush it on instead! /F
pbengtsson: Filling with lecakulor as insulation after floor framing is a method I have seen in older houses.
prototypen: MDF and bathrooms don't go together, MDF swells with the slightest water/moisture. Sure, you can moisture-proof the MDF board but come up with something else instead. Protte
Avemo: http://www.byggahus.se/forum/isolering/146046-thermisol-spaceline-0-014-w-mk.html http://www.thermisol.se/spaceline.php Not 30 times better, but more than twice as good as mineral wool is stated. Furthermore, it is much more than twice as expensive. Erik
andersmc: Rinkaby Rör (and probably a lot of other plumbing companies) for example has 100mm plumbing screws in stainless steel. They are sold individually.
v-g: protte:If you can't see it, you can only guess. If you're going to install something new in a building (especially an old one), it must be evaluated on-site from top to bottom to ensure safety. Quite often, you should cast new piers as the old ones tend to give up over time and become skewed.
BigGitt: Museum? They are good in softer concrete. Single smaller holes. The much more expensive ones are much better. However, I choose a cheap hammer drill.
Yrrol: module house from 1981. everything came like this from the factory.
Yrrol: [citat] Aha, there you got it. Deterioration if you use plywood instead of drywall... Though I still want to believe in my theory that materials dampen different kinds of sounds and using drywall on one side and masonite on the other side - with latex seals and insulation - should provide a broadened capacity against sound... I also don't like that plywood is a lighter material... weight prevents
Saxpy: I have built a pair of swing doors (120cm x 240cm) for my garage and have temporarily hung them on regular 85mm lift hinges. However, they are too flimsy and I am looking for some that are sturdier. I found Eskilstuna fittings that are 145mm and in significantly stronger metal. However, they cost over 300kr each. Does anyone know if there are any more affordable alternatives?? Standard hinges
Maveric77: K-Rauta and Bauhaus do not sell loose meters of blå platon... But it worked out anyway, managed to get the local XL-Bygg firm to break a roll and sell a smaller piece! Big thanks to XL Bygg!
cem77: [citat] The advantage of a horizontal panel is that you can replace the bottom rows of the panel when they start to rot. The upper half of a wall will never be destroyed if you have good timber and substantial roof overhangs, which is always beneficial both for protecting windows and walls and for shading/keeping the heat away. One method can be to install a few rows of horizontal paneling and
mrVoodoo: As you first thought, they had done it like that in this house before. The two rooms in each gable on the upper floor. There had been a large room on each side with a window in the middle, which they then divided into two rooms, two very narrow windows with the wall in the middle. Crazy ugly and impractical. Nowadays, there are two large rooms again, the two walls disappeared in no time. After
Gunner: Hello, I am designing a (small) villa that will have three building sections with three shed roofs, all with two floors. My questions are: 1. Do you build walls all the way up to the roof and then the floor for the second floor inside the house (resting on what?)? Or do you first build walls to the first floor level and then floor joists that rest on the exterior walls to then build the second
Jimbo: We are having trouble deciding... Is there anyone knowledgeable who can tell us mainly the disadvantages of both? Advantages are also welcome...
miry: there is a part that you forgot to account for first, it is 2MPa in compression, but it is around 0.3MPa in tension that they can handle, and above the window, the beam will be subjected to tension which will also be affected by how well it is bonded with what is above, so it will be a synergy between the different layers then I think it's easier to say that 1MPa = 1N/mm2, but sure, you can say
Mejram: I think it was the wrong forum! Was going to ask on "badrum", Sorry.
J.B.: Pretty typical Byggmax and the other ``low-price chains´´ the service is very poor if not non-existent and the prices are not LOW if you check with your local dealer they usually have the same price per/meter+ they often have wood in 30 cm intervals so there's less waste there
Alko: [citat] I agree. Latex/acrylic joints tend to attract dust. They look terrible after a while; they are meant to be painted over. /A
Mats: Last time I built using windbreak fabric, so it was just a staple gun and it was done, but now it will be asfaboard, and with that comes new considerations: Background: Poured concrete slab, on top of which there will be a frame of 145X45 that externally will be cladded with asfaboard. Have I understood it correctly if I think that you should pull down the asfa a little so that it overlaps the
hazze76: Hello I am in the process of renovating the kitchen and have torn down gypsum from the walls and removed the floor and the flooring boards. However, I discovered that there is about a ½-1 cm gap between the floorboard and the wall gypsum. Is that supposed to be there? Shouldn't the wall gypsum extend below the floorboard, which should be as close as possible to the wall gypsum? The construction
Mårten.A: Bump! I have the same question for my patio and want to raise this thread :-) The highest height from the ground is about 1.5 meters, and I want it to be safe enough not to give way. I was thinking maybe 70x70 posts and notching 45 mm to meet a joist of 45x195. Is this construction too weak, and should I instead go for a post size of 90x90? Thanks in advance! /Mårten
Yrrol: As I understand it, you should have a small gap between each board when using Masonite for interior walls... now I've filled in every visible seam, but what effect does this have? Will the house explode? Or is it not that sensitive? I talked to the manufacturers. 1. The boards don't need to be wet during installation, just put them up 2. You don't need to use any special nails or screws, just
kalubah: I have an attic floor insulated with peat. On the sides, some peat has fallen out during renovation. I would like to refill this with new insulation. In volume, one bag is enough, so it's not about large quantities. What type of insulation can be used for this? There should be a better and more readily available option than peat, right?