Building Materials and Construction Technology
anaitis: If you feel uncertain about the issue, to pipe or not to pipe, lay your pipe when building, but wait with connecting it. If you then have problems, you can take on the job of connecting the pipe and directing the water away. The pipe will at least not cause any harm if it lies there without connection.
Ellagård: Thank you. I'll calculate a bit on thicknesses for different options, I have a door with a frame standing that I was thinking of using, the frame is about 100 deep.
kalubah: Oops, it got a bit messy in my last post. Oh well, you get it.
Bjarven: Hello, I have ordered a wrought iron entrance canopy with three compartments 660*950 mm where I intend to place three colored glass panes. As usual, I was too hasty and didn't check all the parameters beforehand. Now it turns out that all the glass (tempered laminated, polycarbonate, and thick plexi) costs 4500-5000 SEK. More expensive than the wrought iron. Can anyone think of a cheaper
Max2: Exactly. The insulation boards (placed behind the serporock) and the stud are flush with each other so the plaster lies directly against the stud. That is, about 2 cm of plaster directly against the stud. From the inside, it is vertical studs, drywall, cross braces, roofing felt, steel mesh, and plaster.
miza1466: Build "upside-down" by pouring/spreading the asphalt on the glass sheet to ultimately place sheet metal or whatever it will be as support, or rebar? It should be easier to achieve a smooth surface this way. Testing with a small glass sheet first to see how it turns out is probably easiest.
shine76: Hello! I have closed up a door and there is a gap because the house is old and some of the light concrete crumbled. What is the best material to fill this hole? When we removed the molding, it also crumbled there. I want to be able to put plugs there and then screw in the moldings. I'm attaching pictures, a close-up and an overview picture :) Best regards, Sofia
bonkeman: Hello! I'm renovating the shower room/toilet in the basement and will start working on the walls. Currently, it's wooden studs and Tretex sheets + a vinyl floor, perfect in a basement shower :P The studs looked better than expected, but the floor studs were a bit dark. I wonder if it's enough to insert new steel studs on the floor and against the outer wall to prevent the wooden studs from
anaitis: You should probably use stainless screws.
Johans71: Hello! Our garage is built with both wooden walls and masonry walls. Against the masonry, I have been advised to put studs, mineral wool, and plastic under the drywall on the walls that will not be backfilled. On the wall that will be backfilled, I should not have plastic. The other day when I was going to put up the drywall, the space and insulation were very damp/wet. The masonry wall without
RoughChuck: Two riser heights + the tread depth = 640 mm provides a staircase that is comfortable to walk. A riser height between 150 and 170 is normal. If you choose a riser height of 150mm, it will be 1650/150 which gives 11 steps. Then the tread depth will be 150+150-640=340mm. The length of the staircase will be 10*340= 3400 mm. Tweak the numbers according to your preference. Regarding the width of the
verktygsgurun: Tried Bostik's multi-sealant instead of Sikaflex the other day and it was much easier to work with. Easier to press out of the gun and easier to smooth out. In other words, got a neater and more even result.
verktygsgurun: Then place plastic spacers between the baseboard and the beam so that they are not snug against each other. A little air in between is good.
verktygsgurun: There are only two ways. Remove the panel on the outside or remove the plastered frames on the inside.
evoline: So how should I do now then?? Got the plywood in place now. Should I cut off all the beveled edges and then just screw the drywall in place without plastering??
witten: I think it seems insane to reinforce the beam IF it has been dimensioned by a structural engineer. A small note regarding method C, there is a risk of crevice corrosion between the plates if the beam can be exposed to moisture. Now I don't think that's the case, but I just wanted to raise a small thought that the final result could actually be worse instead of better with an "unnecessary" action.
Johan Gunverth: ...and it is not diffusion-tight either.
Niclas Jonsson: Bad idea with extra plank. 1) Use angle brackets, or 2) If possible, toe-screw in sturdy franska.
Stefan N: Advertise on Buy and Sell. I have sent loads of these crappy moldings to the dump, but if I had been paid for them, it would have been even more fun to take them down. I guess everyone renovating their 70s houses is getting rid of these.
gadu^: Yes box, it's attached to both the stringer and the stud in the wall. A wild daughter of 5 years old can be likened to a bobcat, so it should hold...
Stringfellow Hawke: There is also old 70s pipe insulation that looks exactly like asbestos but isn't. I have personally sent samples for testing at work and been surprised when it turned out to be harmless. Often, there are 10 so-called experts at the workplace who have carefully determined that it is life-threatening asbestos.
OMLAJA: If you have a moisture barrier, it's punctured, and it will likely remain that way unless you want to tear down the chipboard and repair the plastic. But if the house is old, it's not certain that there is any plastic at all, and in that case, it can't be punctured, and you have no problem :P Even if you have a moisture barrier, I don't think it's a huge catastrophe if it's punctured in spots.
OHE: 13 mm is much stiffer. If you have irregularities in the wall, there is a risk that the 6 mm boards will become wavy when you press them. 6 mm works well if the walls are not very uneven, so you can use a trowel and don’t need to click-glue. If you click-glue 6 mm, you also have very weak walls "between the clicks" (compared to setting up 6 mm sparsely without a backing board). With 13 mm, you
Lite: If they are coming to your place, then a bottle of whiskey. If you leave the work with them, then fika pastry or something similar.
meckis: option B will be impossible to implement, right? I think the first option should be good enough. the warm humid air rises upwards. the roof is the most important!
Mattias_Jo1: Plaster is great, much easier to work with than render mortar.
Oakroad: Looking for experiences with different solutions for waterproofing a concrete balcony. My house (built in '49) has a concrete balcony with a membrane of unknown type, which needs repair/replacement. I also have a concrete terrace over a cold storage accessible from the basement, currently protected by a terrace roof. The roof will be removed soon, and the plan is to build a wooden deck over the