Building Materials and Construction Technology
Alko: (I placed this under Land & Foundation, but realized it fits better here... feel free to remove it from Land & Foundation) Hello, we have an approx. 100-year-old outbuilding (16m2) that is solidly built with plank walls, horizontal paneling, and standing on a foundation wall/sill that protrudes about 25 cm from the ground level on the outside (see image). The sill is cast with lime mortar and
Taxen: I have probably skipped these records due to the price. They cost about 700 SEK/board and I think that is expensive just for wind protection. So the question is what alternatives are there that can be painted to withstand outdoor climate?
JanneSjo: I have a patio with a felt roof over it but no walls, just posts. I'm considering building walls with windows but I'm unsure if I should insulate since it doesn't need to be a winter room. One way is to do it like this in Vi i Villa but put in windows in the walls and not have any wall open but either windows or doors. - but what I'm unsure about is how the wooden interior of the windows will
SiJo: I bought mine on blocket, leftover from some construction so I really have no idea about the price. /Simon
Yrrol: but is it good if it's completely sealed around a window? the window we removed had wide rubber strips around the sides that sealed it, no insulation or anything like that
w_larsson: I have looked at a house that has been re-plastered, with a plastered wooden frame, insulation on the outside of the plaster, about 30mm, then brick, no air gap, no air gaps in the brick. This was done around 1975-80, the house was probably built in the early 1900s. Are there any obvious risks with this, or anything else one should consider? I would certainly prefer there to be air between the
byggare henke: http://t2.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:y8fimccmqSlGUM:http://www.beijerbygg.se/ImageVault/Images/conversionFormatType_Jpeg/compressionQuality_0/conversionFormat_23/width_210/height_300/id_2983/scope_1/ImageVaultHandler.aspx don't they resemble these except for the head and a bit more pointed?
cem77: But it's not a cantilevered balcony you have. It's resting on columns. With the right reinforcement, you can certainly put 20 tons on it without it breaking. It's a big difference from a balcony that extends from a wall and is cantilevered, which probably is the norm you've read about.
prototypen: To lift the entire house, you need to enlist the help of people who have suitable equipment (iron beams and jacks), but then the house part is "finished" once you've built the basement and put the house back, you don't even need to remove all the furniture. Just plan how it will be with the roof, some overhang might collide with the other. Protte
byggare henke: you can make it a bit difficult when it starts to rain. make extra noggings. be careful not to pinch or have too large an angle on the electrical pipes. feel free to mark where the pipes go when you screw in the drywall later. mark with pencil but you probably already know that.
Herc: How long does a carpenter need to build a wood deck resting on concrete slabs with a size of 34 m2?
HenrikHuslöse: [citat] Thanks! [citat] No, that's one of the points. You press the nail through the beam with your thumb :-)
BigGitt: Those of you with older houses from around 1976, with internal particleboard walls, what is your moisture content right now in these?
charly: Thanks for the help Euthanasia! Then it's just a matter of driving to Arlöv and shopping. Charly
prototypen: Goes safely but doesn't touch anything that has worked since 1929. Protte
Yrrol: Refuse to install new faucets and other things before I get a water softener for the drinking water. -So, it's starting to be time. But instead of buying the first one I see, I thought I'd ask you if you have any advice or, well, things to consider before a purchase.. :)
Raceman: In that case, you prime the walls. Easy to use, just mix with a little water and splash on with a soft brush. But it can get a bit tricky with the repairs as you say. You probably won't find anything to repair with that doesn't cause a color shift. Even newly applied kalkpust (since that's what you now have in the walls) will cause a color shift.
erikssonjorgen: Hello, Father-in-law needs to supplement his conservatory. Today there is pressure impregnated timber according to the picture. Do you think this is available today? The dimensions are: 140mm wide and 110mm wide. The board is 20mm thick and the notch about 5mm. /Jörgen
husbåt: does anyone know the KG/m3 for Planhyvlat impregnerat virke type: http://www.beijerbygg.se/templates/BB_ProduktListingFlera.aspx?id=36580
OHE: Are you referring to the "gap" between the recesses on the drywall? In that case, you can fill it with joint compound level with the drywall on both sides. Then it's easiest to glue on a paper tape, using a good adhesive, like Hernia KP4. If it's the non-recessed edges, these must first be beveled (preferably also primed with oil) and then filled level with the drywall before applying the tape.
strevert: [citat] Yes exactly, I wasn't clear enough in my initial post.
prototypen: Continued to search and through arge snickarn I found http://www.steni.com/default.asp?nLid=3 There are probably more suppliers Protte