Hello!
This is my first post on this forum, I've been browsing around and noticed that there seem to be a lot of skilled people here offering good advice and tips
I currently have a 2-room apartment that is 65 square meters.
The bedroom is 18 square meters and will be gradually renovated as funds come in.
What has been done so far is that I've torn out the old wardrobes from around 1945 and plan to build a new large "walk-in closet" with sliding doors.
I've also removed loose plaster from the ceiling since there were literally hanging loose pieces of plaster =(
The floor (click flooring) will be removed once the ceiling is finished.
This upcoming week, the plan is to clean out the remaining debris, then take proper measurements around the entire bedroom.
I'm planning to lower the ceiling, so I will buy U-steel studs to build a frame, then use 45x45 wooden studs placed at 300 centers to later attach plasterboard to the ceiling, meaning I’ll lower the ceiling by about 50-70mm and install spotlights.
The current ceiling is Concrete/Plaster, which should be okay as fire protection, right? And am I generally thinking correctly about the method for lowering the ceiling?
I also need to measure the size of the closet; sliding doors need to be purchased so I know the dimensions of the opening for the closet.
The closet itself will be 2500mm wide and 600-700mm deep.
Most likely I’ll install an Elfa shelf system or something custom-built inside.
Plasterboard needs to go up on the wall where the old wardrobe stood, as behind it some parts of the plaster (I have red brick in all the walls) are completely gone, so I need to cover the damage. How does one best attach plasterboard to plaster?
Glue? Frame it with something and screw it on? Drill and plug into the plaster/brick?
I'm looking to make sure it stays in place firmly and looks good; I want to do this top-notch, no sloppy work.
The floor will then be a floating wooden floor throughout the bedroom, including the closet.
The plan is, as mentioned, to fix the ceiling first, then remove the old floor and then install the new one, and in between, maybe paint the walls/wallpaper them.
Last but not least, a few baseboards.
A bit oddly compiled overall, but for anyone willing to respond, I'm eternally grateful...
/Fredrik
This is my first post on this forum, I've been browsing around and noticed that there seem to be a lot of skilled people here offering good advice and tips
I currently have a 2-room apartment that is 65 square meters.
The bedroom is 18 square meters and will be gradually renovated as funds come in.
What has been done so far is that I've torn out the old wardrobes from around 1945 and plan to build a new large "walk-in closet" with sliding doors.
I've also removed loose plaster from the ceiling since there were literally hanging loose pieces of plaster =(
The floor (click flooring) will be removed once the ceiling is finished.
This upcoming week, the plan is to clean out the remaining debris, then take proper measurements around the entire bedroom.
I'm planning to lower the ceiling, so I will buy U-steel studs to build a frame, then use 45x45 wooden studs placed at 300 centers to later attach plasterboard to the ceiling, meaning I’ll lower the ceiling by about 50-70mm and install spotlights.
The current ceiling is Concrete/Plaster, which should be okay as fire protection, right? And am I generally thinking correctly about the method for lowering the ceiling?
I also need to measure the size of the closet; sliding doors need to be purchased so I know the dimensions of the opening for the closet.
The closet itself will be 2500mm wide and 600-700mm deep.
Most likely I’ll install an Elfa shelf system or something custom-built inside.
Plasterboard needs to go up on the wall where the old wardrobe stood, as behind it some parts of the plaster (I have red brick in all the walls) are completely gone, so I need to cover the damage. How does one best attach plasterboard to plaster?
Glue? Frame it with something and screw it on? Drill and plug into the plaster/brick?
I'm looking to make sure it stays in place firmly and looks good; I want to do this top-notch, no sloppy work.
The floor will then be a floating wooden floor throughout the bedroom, including the closet.
The plan is, as mentioned, to fix the ceiling first, then remove the old floor and then install the new one, and in between, maybe paint the walls/wallpaper them.
Last but not least, a few baseboards.
A bit oddly compiled overall, but for anyone willing to respond, I'm eternally grateful...
/Fredrik
Considering that you will be eternally grateful, I am happy to respond. d^_^b
The roof is easiest if you only use steel for the roof.
http://www.beijerbygg.se/templates/BB_ProduktListing.aspx?id=7370
The wall inside the corner can be smoothed with concrete if the corners are very uneven, to make it straighter. (If needed) Then just glue (Construction adhesive) the gypsum together with about 8-12 plugs, depending on how precise you want to be. It will hold even with just glue if you brace it, but plugging is just as quick.
Regarding spotlights in the ceiling, there are spotlights that are approved for your purpose. Google it.
Good luck
The roof is easiest if you only use steel for the roof.
http://www.beijerbygg.se/templates/BB_ProduktListing.aspx?id=7370
The wall inside the corner can be smoothed with concrete if the corners are very uneven, to make it straighter. (If needed) Then just glue (Construction adhesive) the gypsum together with about 8-12 plugs, depending on how precise you want to be. It will hold even with just glue if you brace it, but plugging is just as quick.
Regarding spotlights in the ceiling, there are spotlights that are approved for your purpose. Google it.
Good luck
I don't have much more to add, but I glued gypsum boards to a plastered wall, and I chose to first plaster over large damages to get a better fit against the wall. Our wall was a bit wavy, so I decided to add a few plugs/screws at the seam between the boards, but otherwise, I just placed the boards against the wall and pressed them in. I used PL 400, which worked excellently. We also built an elfagarderob when we renovated the bedroom. Personally, I prefer their system over IKEA's because it provides more space and greater flexibility, but damn, the doors were expensive :O We chose their cheapest doors, which are fine, but there's definitely a difference in stability and appearance.
You hang up profiles in a level position, securing them with bolts to the ceiling (no exact measurement needed), then you screw ceiling profiles with cc30 onto them and finally mount the plasterboard on the ceiling profiles with screws intended for steel.
Ps: They are not steel beams, more like regular wall studs in steel, but intended for ceilings. Ds.
But if you ask at the building store, they will show you, it's better when you have the material in hand.
Ps: They are not steel beams, more like regular wall studs in steel, but intended for ceilings. Ds.
But if you ask at the building store, they will show you, it's better when you have the material in hand.
The studs and stuff have been purchased now at least and should be put up before too long..
Yesterday I tore out the old wooden floor..
Underneath it, there are 2 linoleum mats, and they don't smell like Swiss roll..
So they will also be torn out.
So a question about flooring..
Is it okay to lay Foam directly on the concrete, and then put new wooden flooring on top?
Any preparations to consider?
Yesterday I tore out the old wooden floor..
Underneath it, there are 2 linoleum mats, and they don't smell like Swiss roll..
So they will also be torn out.
So a question about flooring..
Is it okay to lay Foam directly on the concrete, and then put new wooden flooring on top?
Any preparations to consider?
You can check out this thread to see if you get any wiser.Freddo26 said:
http://www.byggahus.se/forum/golv/142410-ta-bort-plastgolvet.html
Instead of creating a new thread since the problem I have now is related to the lowering of my ceiling...
As I explained, I have attached steel studs to the wall in a frame around the entire room, in which there are wooden studs with 300mm centers. I have screwed drywall to the ceiling, filled all screw holes and joints with minimal filler, then sanded everything and painted a coat to see if more prep work was needed, which of course it was...
So, I filled again, very thin and wide layer to get a large straight and even surface over the joints, it was the joints that were troublesome because they have cracked =/
After 4 paintings and redoing the filling 4 times, I am now tired of this
Most recently, I carved a V-like “ditch” in the joints between the drywall in the ceiling and filled it with painter's caulk, to get something elastic I thought...
This obviously didn’t work either, as it has cracked as usual...
So, are there any tips on what I can do?
One thing I'm considering is gluing a fabric over the joints and then filling over it, could that work?
As I explained, I have attached steel studs to the wall in a frame around the entire room, in which there are wooden studs with 300mm centers. I have screwed drywall to the ceiling, filled all screw holes and joints with minimal filler, then sanded everything and painted a coat to see if more prep work was needed, which of course it was...
So, I filled again, very thin and wide layer to get a large straight and even surface over the joints, it was the joints that were troublesome because they have cracked =/
After 4 paintings and redoing the filling 4 times, I am now tired of this
Most recently, I carved a V-like “ditch” in the joints between the drywall in the ceiling and filled it with painter's caulk, to get something elastic I thought...
This obviously didn’t work either, as it has cracked as usual...
So, are there any tips on what I can do?
One thing I'm considering is gluing a fabric over the joints and then filling over it, could that work?
Regular gypsum boards; http://www.beijerbygg.se/templates/BB_Produkt.aspx?id=3774