Building Materials and Construction Technology
Robbsen: Currently renovating a bedroom in a 60s house. There was black mold on the underlay from previous owners which we have addressed. The house has natural ventilation, which meant that almost all circulation disappeared when they replaced the oil boiler with an air-water heat pump. Now there's a vent in each room that does limited work, even though we have the bathroom and kitchen fan on constantly.
Demmpa: Yes, made of wood, the radiators are/were fastened with French screws [bild] Edit: [bild] Picture from bathroom renovation, the plank is 1.5-2 cm thick, 10-12 cm high.
Ethum: No, saw an old thread and thought I'd write in it instead of creating a new one :)
kniv: The reason you shouldn't use an impact driver on construction screws is precisely because of the impact. There is a "risk" that the impact might cause the steel to break or crack, etc. How likely this is in practice, I do not know. However, you need a rather powerful driver if you're going to drive them in without impact; drivers that "ordinary" people have are often not powerful enough. I
Bengt65: [citat] Yes, you are right about that.
cederbusch: [citat] I have changed it since that picture, because I also thought it wasn't much of a support 😁
Anonymiserad 23608: Rubber plug, toggler/T-plug, duck foot
martinradbo: [citat] Yes, reinforcing underneath is a given and not a problem for me. Whether it will be carriage bolts or strong wood screws, we'll see. But regardless, there will be less to play with the closer I get to the old house. That is, the wedge-shaped beams are calculated to be as little as 30 mm high at the thin end. At the innermost part, however, you can screw the posts into the wall, so it will
snussi: Thank you so much for the answers. I'll get a borrhammare, and hopefully, that will solve this very frustrating problem.
Baskavoda: [citat] Follow-up question on that. I am going to set up hat racks where I have made my own brackets. Does anyone know what load a hanging hook can handle? I don't see how else I can attach the bracket since it is quite heavy (deep).
Rrulle: As you can see in the pictures, there are significant cracks in the outer wall. I understand that this needs to be properly re-mortared, but should I support anything until then? The wall consists of double layers of lightweight concrete blocks. The standing studs for the upper floor rest on a beam that sits on top of the masonry wall, but further in there's a sturdy timber beam supporting the
henrikberg: I have a masonry stone grill where the stones are starting to come loose. The mortar has turned to sand from rain and ice. I would like to preserve it but don't know where to start. It is probably 30 years old. I think I need to chip away the bad mortar and apply new. Should I use cement, concrete or mortar? Which type is recommended? Can I get the old feel/color on the new mortar so that my
Lovensson: [citat] Considering that a 1200 board costs as much (if not less than) both 900 and 600 (where I'm looking), I'll probably rent a lift, or alternatively cut it 😀 Also fewer seams to fill and deal with, I think. What width have you used? [citat] Ah thanks! I hadn't really thought about that (and none of the DIY guides I've read so far have mentioned it either). However, I'm not quite sure why
ClasseClas: [citat] Floor screws have a built-in drill at the tip, so they are convenient in that way. Avoid floor screws that require a square bit (like Robertson R1). They're not enjoyable, in my opinion. [bild] Instead, choose screws for Torx bits. (e.g., Spax, Grabber) [bild]
Tjrex: I think it sounds absolutely right to have a vapor barrier in the conservatory as you planned.
patrikz: I want to plaster this wall which is old from the 70s. It is made up of hard concrete blocks. Do you have any recommendations on how I should proceed?
Baeckz: I ended up putting gravel at the bottom and placing the post in the hole on a stone slab. Then used foundation concrete. We'll see if it holds 😅 It feels good for now anyway. Did it yesterday afternoon. Thanks for the help.
klaskarlsson: [citat] Yes, you should install corner protectors before plastering something like this https://www.byggmax.se/h%C3%B6rnskydd-p20805?gad_source=1&gbraid=0AAAAAD8WC3ElpGo4HsBLTmb48m7yaKv5G
z_bumbi: Adding braces makes the entire structure sturdier and you can reduce the dimensions. The pergola is usually not the main focus and it's good if it's not too bulky.
albinviggen: Renovating and removed wallpaper from the wall. Want to repair and smooth the wall with gypsum plaster but not getting good results. It becomes too rough and coarse instead of silky matte and smooth. The idea is to keep the plastered surface as it is and bind the dust. So not painting. Using elite combimix from Bauhaus. Is Weber Gypsum preferable? How I do it: - Cast on gypsum plaster and spread
greystonecottage: Hello! There is a beam above the stove that is burned on the inside to about half of its thickness. I believe that beam supports the entire chimney!! How can we replace it? The house is from 1929. The entire hole behind the stove and around it was covered. You couldn't see the beam or the bricks before we dug it out. The stove is in the basement and we think that before it was installed (probably
Bart: Cement mortar A. Good for most things. https://www.combimix.com/se/produkter/betong/standardbetong/cementbruk-a
Snedstreck: I have a deck that is about 15 years old. In one of the joints between two decking boards, the boards have rotted, and I plan to replace these boards. It now appears that the rot has spread to the joists under the joint, see pictures. I am thinking of removing the rotten wood so that it does not spread further. How is it best to remove the rot, and what should I do to have something to screw the
cpalm: If you want to buy screws in bulk over the counter, I recommend Flinks, but I have no idea where you are located geographically.
Fällebyggarn: Does anyone have any tips on surface treatment for a fire protection board? I'm going to install mine on the ceiling above a stove, and let's just say the board doesn't exactly enhance the room's ambiance. The installation instructions mention that you can plaster the board, and then perhaps you can also paint it with the right kind of paint... or just enjoy the plaster in its natural expression.
z_bumbi: [citat] Replace if necessary and not just because. If it has lasted until now without looking terrible, it may very well last as well as anything else.
GörRätt: [citat] No, that's not a good idea. C-bruk can be used for walls.