Building Materials and Construction Technology
klaskarlsson: [citat] It is extremely hard to believe that this wall would be load-bearing even if it is not a "simple" gable-roof house. Not least it is incredibly thin on the drawing, short and does not go in a direction that seems load-bearing even if you consider that the house seems to have been extended in stages. But with old houses, you never know: There might be a stove on the upper floor right above
Aleksandar Jakovljevic: Hi, I want to ask about PIR insulation under the concrete slab. Can it replace EPS, or do I need to first lay EPS and then PIR insulation? I can lay a maximum of 15 cm of insulation with the concrete slab; how should I do it?
Goalit: Hi, I'm considering demolishing the lower part of the sunroom (see pictures) as there is a lot of rot damage, etc. I'm going to replace it with concrete blocks which will then be plastered. The sunroom stands on a cast slab, which according to the previous owner is insulated and 10 cm thick. I'm wondering how I should handle the wood facade against the blocks, should I just seal it with some
Soffpotatisen: [citat] Okay, then I feel calm. Thanks for the answer.
Selleus: [citat] I didn't think you could lay insulation on an existing slab because it's classified as a "risk construction"?
minimicke: I am tearing up the floor and opening the subfloor in my house where it has been determined that there are chlorinated solvents in the indoor air. The beam at the bottom of the outer wall that holds the floor joists is treated with something brown. I suspect it might be a culprit for the experienced problems. Replacing it is not possible, but how can I minimize its harm? Could barrier paint be an
mili_d: Surely, this isn't glulam? Replaced this 100x100mm with a 90x90 glulam, surely that should be okay?
huggan: I would probably recommend mineritskiva.
fribygg: [citat] Then I think it is difficult to get a good enough contact between the surfaces for it to be meaningful to glue.
mickeforsberg: [citat] Everything works! Now, of course, these were pre-drilled
Majskaka: Also wondering about the heat, as I was planning to do something similar. Should be possible to use sodium silicate as an impregnation for the concrete at least. Otherwise, a 2k PU sealer is very durable, though I'm not sure how well it handles heat... like this one: https://konkral.se/sv/products/sealer-elite-plus-12-kg
Lato: Place a steel rail at the bottom and top. Find a bent 45*45, place it in the 45*45 rule with the bend towards the existing wall. Wedge something in between so that the 45*45 bends out.
BirgitS: Do you have any information from the seller/store about what support such a thin slab requires? Is support along 3 edges sufficient, or does it need support under most of the slab to prevent cracking under load? But there are different types of brackets that can be used. Here are some suggestions: https://www.byggahus.se/forum/threads/faesta-ikea-baenkskiva-utan-underskap.514854/
joasag: Planning to build a pergola on the patio and considering attaching a beam to the eaves. Hipped roof, I'll place the screw in the rafters. Which screw should I use? I want something sturdy that can also withstand the west coast. Should I place the beam directly against the painted panel or with spacers? Alternatively, have some flashing above this beam to prevent water from getting between the
AG A: [citat] Of course. Thanks, sometimes you ask without thinking first😄.
z_bumbi: A cynical part of me says bark beetle. Another part says that the difference between pine and spruce that hasn't been grown on spruce land is probably not that big, which is now visible on a larger scale. For exterior paneling, just paint with a good paint, and you can have almost anything. If you paint with a bad paint, nothing works.
sunkann: [bild] I need help with a staircase up to the attic section of the garage. Insulation along the outer roof with a 45-degree slope. Full standing height in the center but not much more. From the floor below to the floor above is 2700mm. Space for the staircase is available in the picture. Build myself or buy? Straight steep or in an L-shape with a landing? What are your thoughts and ideas? Good
onatakosha: [citat] Thanks for the response. There are some loose spots and visible joints. I think moisture is okay except in one corner, where the downspout goes down so it's probably blocked there. I'll lead it out onto the lawn instead. In that case, I'll keep the panels and touch up a bit where it's missing.
tomas.wilhelmsson: [citat] A little late, but if you look at the drawing, the intention is not for the roofing felt to let through, but it lies on top of the battens and creates an air channel so it becomes like a Z path that snow/water must take to get under the decking. So the roofing felt extending from the ridge board somewhat forms a check valve there =)
useless: Someone has started a fire and embers have landed on the roof?
O: [citat] Without discriminating against anyone, my firm belief is that those who live in Västerbotten have such good experience with winters that this is resolved automatically. If you can handle all the other roads and parking lots during the winter, you can surely manage the last few meters in front of the garage too.😁 Those who want to skateboard/kickbike/inline will probably want the
z_bumbi: Regardless of cc, screw cross braces between the boards in the middle between the support points to make it sturdier. You're not stepping on one board but all the boards are loaded more or less simultaneously. A piece of regel works as a brace.
Billy Bertil: Okay, thanks. It's a high beam, but they have cut off the support legs for it. The slightly darker, thicker one that goes across the image. [citat] Let's imagine I don't intend to apply for a building permit. How would I proceed then? I’m sending two pictures. It's a high beam for the old roof, which was there before I bought the house. And when I started demolishing, I noticed that the support
maah: If you start with a whole board, you should first check how the last board will end up. If the room's measurement is such that the last board will only be a few centimeters, it might be better to start with a half board.
Robbsen: Currently renovating a bedroom in a 60s house. There was black mold on the underlay from previous owners which we have addressed. The house has natural ventilation, which meant that almost all circulation disappeared when they replaced the oil boiler with an air-water heat pump. Now there's a vent in each room that does limited work, even though we have the bathroom and kitchen fan on constantly.
Demmpa: Yes, made of wood, the radiators are/were fastened with French screws [bild] Edit: [bild] Picture from bathroom renovation, the plank is 1.5-2 cm thick, 10-12 cm high.