Building Materials and Construction Technology
z_bumbi: The diagonal brace remains, but above and below, you attach a piece of stud. If you bevel cut the new pieces, they fit against the diagonal brace and look a bit better from the inside.
rogero1: Borrowed a Makita drywall saw from the electrician, worked superbly.
Qvint: Both of your tips worked super well, thank you so much for the help!
digg75: Have had the staircase renovated, repainted, and a new carpet laid on the steps. Underneath at the front edge, there is a trim. This was removed when repainting and then reattached with screws. Now, afterwards, it makes a bad noise with each step. Not creaking, but more like a snapping sound as if something is "breaking" every time. The question is, the trim underneath was previously nailed in
Demmpa: How thick is the insulation between the actual flue pipe and the outer pipe? 30 mm = semi-insulated 50 mm = fully insulated The fully insulated chimney modules we have require at least 50 mm to combustible material. The governing regulations are BBR, primarily chapter 5. Finally, it is the person conducting the fire safety inspection (chimney sweep or rescue service) who determines if it's okay
hobbyhenen: A small LED connected to the lighting that should also have a timer. If the LED is on outside, it is occupied.
Lex_Vipera: [citat] When you pour out LECA balls in, for example, a floor structure, you use sluring, which you mix with a loose mixture of concrete and water, and then throw over the LECA balls to bind them together. Previously bathroom slopes were often made of concrete that was poured over the LECA balls. On one occasion we applied sluring on skylights to limit the sun's rays from fully shining through
Anonymiserad 405730: [citat] Looks like shadow trim 21x33, you can measure if those are the dimensions..
Dojsan: Hello, I'm going to renovate our bathroom, and the chimney adjoins it. I have removed an extra ledge that was there and a box for an old pipe. But I guess the next step is to leave the rest as is and brick up the old holes from a previous life?
lillazorro: [citat] Thanks for the answer. I'll figure out which option involves the least work after I've opened up and checked. It's nice to know my idea wasn't completely off the wall 😄
Anonymiserad 405730: [citat] Good that you recognize your limitations😉 [citat] No, it looks like 45mm lumber since it aligns with the beam below the joists. [citat] As you can see in the picture, there are double studs. [citat] Yes and yes.
Anonymiserad 405730: [citat] It will be very sensitive to appearance if you install horizontal paneling; the slightest warp or if the posts aren't aligned will be visible. You could use thicker posts and have the paneling only in between the posts to create a less sensitive fence, purely from a visual perspective, I think!
Niklas***J: Have spent a lot of time reading on the soda to prepare myself but now need to ask a question to confirm my thinking. I am going to install new windows in the exterior wall and want to frame for these. (1 will be moved and a new one) Is it enough to frame as in the picture for the window that is there (but adjusted for a slightly wider window). Current window 90 (frame size) The outer edge should
kamra: Hello! We've redone the flooring in the room with the fireplace and need some form of spark protection in front, but are having a hard time coming up with a good solution. The floor is mechanically ventilated, so there's tape sticking up a little on the fireplace that needs to be covered. [bild] [bild] My thought has been either to place a sheet of metal in front or to cut out a part of the floor
ajn82: [citat] If the studs are 45x45 mm, I wouldn't dare to do it, but I'm not sure.
mexitegel: Would it work with a one-plank click parquet floor?
a_w: Since the drawings are not complete, I would recommend tearing down the ceiling around these joists on the ground floor. Perhaps then it can be determined very easily if the wall is load-bearing. If that's not enough, you also need to check how the wall connects to the outer roof.
Dilato: [citat] So you were just too scared at first? Drilling into concrete involves both loud noise and it can take quite a lot of time (especially with the "wrong" equipment), which you have now realized 😄 Congratulations!
Anonymiserad 405730: [citat] Agreed! [citat] But I think it's simply because they are called ground pipes and lack that marking, they are simply not intended or approved for indoor use. Ground pipes SN8 are much more pressure-resistant as they are approved to be placed under roads. In my nearly 30 years on construction sites, I've never seen red pipes indoors or heard of it, except for a few here at BH who interpret
bertt: [citat] Thanks but the picture is just to show what a small snippet of wall it is, the tape has been moved, there is no crack in the casement and no crack between the wall/ceiling, I know I need to seal the cracks that are everywhere since the entire wall leaks in smoke, and it becomes much more smoke than from two vents, I will look into this. Happy Easter
Micke_xyz: [citat] Forgot the description. They're in a hallway 2 meters from each other. They feel very hollow and loosely attached/fragile. They may have a cover, but they are painted over, so it's hard to say. I don't dare to fiddle with them too much because it doesn't seem like they can be put back if they come loose. There's only a hallway on the floor above where they are located.
Tsukumono: [citat] Hello, How is it going with this? Is it built now? What wood dimensions did you end up with?
Kattkvinnan: [citat] Thank you so much! We'll go with that!! Happy Easter! 🌷
cpalm: Start by securing the pipes so that they come up exactly as you want them. If you want to be precise, the water pipe should come up at least 60 mm from the wall (see https://sakervatten.se/branschregler/las-branschregler-20212-online-2/4-1-3-tappvattenservis-till-smahus/) and should be entirely in frost-free soil. The culvert there doesn't feel completely optimal as it comes up at an angle from