Building Materials and Construction Technology
z_bumbi: [citat] Replace if necessary and not just because. If it has lasted until now without looking terrible, it may very well last as well as anything else.
GörRätt: [citat] No, that's not a good idea. C-bruk can be used for walls.
MasMats: [citat] Thread lift model larger. How did it turn out? Looking for a staircase to a loft. Difficult with quality feel through the screen. Are you satisfied?
jonaserik: [citat] The staircase wobbles a bit, it just needs a few mm to squeak. The outer stringer is hanging in the air. Try placing a rule slightly under tension between the floor and the underside, along the stringer, on the second step up from the angle.
Figge Bergquist: [citat] For my part, it's about replacing a rotten board over two meters long, so it's just a matter of sawing. I agree that 28x95 is a useful dimension and still wonder why it's so rare as a stock item.
AG A: [citat] You're on the right track. Even a very thin wall can handle almost anything. Yet, a load-bearing wall is almost never built with weaker wood than 45x95. That's mostly due to lateral stability. A heavily loaded wall must also be able to withstand a strong hit. That alone suggests that your wall is NOT load-bearing. But also how the interior walls are positioned so differently, and perhaps
fribygg: [citat] You can buy them now and screw the floor in tonight if you want and have the energy;)
Hecktor Andersson: [citat] Thanks for the quick reply! What a relief. I got short of breath and a bit of anxiety. But it went away immediately. Yes, the wall has been damp and bad for 40 years. So now I’m tearing it down and going to fix it. Thanks for the help
blork: [citat] Hmm yes, they do have them, that's what it'll be then. 😆
anderslofwall: A 1 cm gap around the frame is probably just right, and here you need to know your frame thickness to be able to calculate the hole. You can attach the frame directly to the concrete, but I would probably make the hole big enough so that I could also fit in a stud to screw the frame screw into. I believe it will be easier to adjust then, at least if you use, for example, a frame screw from Essve
JoshiSushi: Hello, I hired a carpenter to outfit my attic space. To begin with, an air gap was created by placing battens on the inside of the rafters and attaching Masonite boards there. Then comes insulation, plastic, and battens for the Huntonit. [bild] At the bottom of the corner, you can see the plastic that goes all the way down. Now to the problem, the carpenter I hired says that the procedure below
hapazard: [citat] Hardly, the moisture goes into the board and it rots from the inside.
Daniel 109: Alternative 1 makes sense. Already plaster with color would probably go a long way. But it's not wrong to have a vapor barrier there.
Kardan79: [citat] Try using Google, and you'll find LOTS of different screws designed specifically for lightweight concrete. Combine the search with the dimensions you are looking for (e.g., 8x120).
PergolaChristian: Spontaneously, I personally think it should be obvious to say that it is NOT load-bearing. But I am an amateur and base it on what seems logical. Just like you said - a pantry with insulated walls, therefore thicker. Also, the fact that the ceiling is not jointed but the panels run across from wall to wall in 90% of the garage. It feels a bit disappointing to bring in an engineer for 2000:- for
kniv: Then maybe you should nuance your post a bit and not just write "also brush." For driving a few dowels between two soles that are to be cast together, the compressed air is just fine! Brushing is not wrong, but hardly needed in this application given that TS has access to other adequate tools and doesn't already have a brush. And I spontaneously find it hard to see that those who intend to hang a
Hallonbåten: I would have placed perforated joint tape in the angle between the wall and ceiling, leveled with a laser from the gable corners. Treetex boards under 6mm gypsum can easily get depressions.
Testarn: I would assume that the ratio between width and length is correct, so if 70 mm in reality is a certain measure on the image, you can use that to calculate the length of the pins and how far from the end of the roof the support meets, etc. That type of illustrations are often well-made and if they've "cheated" with any length, they usually indicate or specify it.
Demmpa: [citat] Looks like someone has painted the white drain pipes, first-generation plastic pipes, also called eggshell pipes, this is because they are brittle and crack easily. They are glued at the joints.
DGW: Hello, I have a "sportstuga" built in '71 (snow zone 2.0-2.5) that has been renovated in stages. Among other things, the wall I marked in the section sketch has been partially removed, an opening of about 3.8m. The visible beam/plate 100x100 remaining in the opening clearly sags in the middle. As I understand it, truss rafters are often self-supporting, but if not a load-bearing wall, it might be
Testarn: Yes, the laser is almost as good as duct tape when building. :)
Snapp: I have treated my concrete stairs with Bemix Korrohäft but it doesn't withstand the wear and is very light in color. Is Weber Rep 05 better perhaps? The stairs are intact, want to keep the concrete look so no paint or tiles. Any tips?
Testarn: To know if it’s possible, you probably need to show how they look today, but if they are the W-truss type, you might need to bring in a designer to calculate and draw. It depends quite a bit on the span and dimensions, etc.
Testarn: Fill in with regular fine concrete (those bags with "all in one") that you just mix with water should work. The first rule against the wall, I would screw into the wall with plugs and screws and pull it down behind the pipes. Then you can attach a couple of pipe clamps to secure them and the panel material will go around them as well.
Anonymiserad 754872: Bought a cross laser, highly recommended for getting everything straight Also learned how to box steel tracks Tracks screwed everywhere and today tried with two wooden studs 😊👍
erikjakan: It turned out to be a Hilti Slotting Cutter with a 60mm depth and 50mm width, it sucked but went pretty fast. Ended up with about 10 240-liter bags of Ytong waste :P
benox: Hello! My house has a balcony that is 7 meters wide and 2 meters deep. It is attached to the house (of course) at one end and the outer edge rests on 3 posts. Now I want to make this balcony twice as deep and remove the middle post to be able to utilize the space under the balcony in the best way. I'm thinking of a framework according to the attached image, but I need help with the dimensioning